SUKIE

Dale, Thanks for the info on building the wood part of mast. Actually, I googled it and got plenty of facts and figures. So, I've built a test section of 2' and it came out fine, altough I didn't do the tapering. I'm saving all that fun for the real stuff. . . The interior is completed, now need to epoxy and paint the deck. I'm waiting for the hardware (hint hint Graham!), and then I can get into the "fussy" work of which Wes speaks so highly. I'm getting so close, I can't wait!!

Wes, I just love hearing about your outings, and especially about how you are absolutely thrilled with your CS. I have your "Rogue Paddler" site marked as one of my favorites, and I refer to it frequently when I need a little inspiration. Here's my short list before launching: Sand, prime and paint interior Install, epoxy, prime and paint deck Build top 6" of mast (birdsmouth)(wish me luck)(I have NO idea how to do the figuring!)oh, then assemble mast Build tiller Install coaming So, my launch date is May 11th. Do you think I'll make it?????????? Enjoy your sailing!! I'm envious!!

a couple more.

Making progress, putting on deck tonight!

Hello everyone. I'm making progress: have flipped the boat rightside up again and installed about 1/2 the deck framing. (I'm very happy that my joints will be hidden by the deck!) I'd love to post some photos and will try later. A basic woodworking question, what's the best way to cut the mast holes so they don't look like a woodchuck cut them? I have an adjustable saw jig but it only expands to 2 1/2 inches and I need it a tad bigger. I'd love any advice you have, thanks.

When you build your cradle, make it to the specs in the plans for when setting the mast angle. (I think the bow should be 10" higher than the stern at the corner, but check it, I'm using my unreliable memory). It will save you the hassle of blocking it up later, as I had to! Good Luck, you're going to have a great time!

Paul and Ken, Thanks for the inspiration! Now I must git that sanding done and put some paint on. . .

Ray, THIS is the moment I'm waiting for!!

I'm in the process of building a CS17 kit which I started last March ('08). Getting the main parts of the hull together went quickly and easily, but then summer came and I couldn't bear to be inside building. Then fall came and I had to take 3 months off for brian surgery, and since then I've been going hard on the build. I have a little boat building experience (plywood and strip built kayaks), but my woodworking skills are minimal. Thank God for epoxy which is so good at filling all those nasty, unsightly gaps in joints I have to make (the ones not provided with the kit). I think the hardest parts for me were cutting the compound angles of the centerboard trunk, and some of the deck framing (also angles). The plans do look complicated, but I've spent many an evening with the plans, a glass of wine, and a warm fire, mulling over the next steps. Right now the boat (Little Lady) is upside down awaiting the bottom and topsides paint, then I'll flip it over, figure the mast step placements, install the deck, and paint it all. Oh yeah, I also have to figure out how to build that top section of the mast with the birdsmouth method. So you see, it's all a challenge for me, but each time I complete one hard step I'm inspired to attack the next. I just can't wait to feel the hull plane the first time! Oh, one more thing: I'm a woman!

On my plans for the CS17 there is a line drawn the length of the hull which looks like it could be the waterline, and is labeled "DWL". Can someone please tell me what this stands for? Also, if it is the waterline, how do I position the boottop from this line? Above it, below it, or split the difference? As always, I'm enjoying the information I gleen from this forum, thankyou gentlemen.

OK, I've flipped the boat (with help from my wonderful husband Pat), and put the tape on the seams. Now, I plan to 'glass the bottom but am in indecision about where to stop the glass. On the plans there's a line labeled "DWL". Is this the water line? So, my choices are to bring the glass up to the water line where the seam (yes, it will be visible, no matter how I try!) will be slightly disguised by the change in paint color. Or, just cover the bottom panels, having the seam be at the chine. Any suggestion or thoughts? Thanks! Sukie

Hey Ken, I'd love to see a photo of your set up. Thanks

I just did a quick search on the Maine Legislative web site and didn't find anything regarding pfd use. Thank god, we still have some liberties! (Of course, I live in NH which is the only state which doesn't mandate the use of seat belts.)

Gentlemen, thank you for your good advise. I'll add the doublers when I cut the hatches out. I'm assuming that I should complete the deck framing, then flip the boat to finish the outside of the hull, the flip back to finish. Is this right?

We're through the Holiday season and I'm on to making this boat look like it will float. Right now I'm charging up my camera and will post a photo soon. I have the seat tops installed and ready to coat the whole inside of the cockpit with epoxy before installing the deck framing, but there's been a problem gnawing at me. The seat tops are not very rigid, giving when stepped on. I've seen some comments on this forum regarding extra framing under the tops, but I didn't do that. Now, if I apply 4 or 6 oz fiberglass on the tops, will that add the additional strength? My husband is about 230 lbs and I'm worried about the consequences of his step on one of the weaker places. Also, what about the foredeck? Should I do something to make that stronger too? Thanks for your opinions/experience/whatever! Sukie

Could someone fill me in on the specifics of the T200? Is is a race similar to the Everglades Challenge, or a group tour? Also, location and date, etc. Thanks! PS, my CS17 # 218 is ready for deck installation, then flip it and do the bottom. I think I'll be ready for a spring launch! Horay!!

Hello PAR, Your solution looks like a good one, but I have a couple questions. I've been told by a boat builder that epoxy doesn't adhere well to oak, although I've used oak myself myself once and so far it's OK. Have you used it anywhere that it's survived the test of time? Also, I like the idea of dressing up the transom and have been thinking of doing mine (CS 17) with cedar strips, possibly edges with oak as you suggested. Any thoughts on that? Sukie

David, Like Ray, I too think this is a very funny thread. Because, as noted by all others, we have ALL been there. I am a hard learner, so have the perfect tool for just this problem. It's called a Shinto Wood Rasp and I absolutely depend on it, especially for those nasty epoxy drips. When worknig on a flat spot I remove the handle, wrap duct tape on the ends, and drips are removed in seconds. I got mine from Newfound Woodworks (Newfound.com) because I can drive there, but they are also available online from japanwoodworker.com and others. Good Luck! Sukie

Hello again to you all, Well, summer's over here in New England and the leaves are doing their special show for all the tourists, the kayak's been put away, and it's time for me to get back to boat building! I have a problem with the epoxy resin: it seams to all have coagulated into one large white lump. I think I remember reading something about heating it, but can't seem to find any answers with a search. Does anyone have any advise? thanks!

Norm, You should be very, very proud of your accomplishments. She looks great! You're an inspiration to me, who's CS17 is sitting in the cellar just waiting for me to gt back to her. Thanks for an insight into the building process. Sukie

Perhaps I'm being old fashioned, but I do cuts like that by hand, with a fine toothed, thin bladed saw. I imagine if one were to also seal with epoxy first it would be a flawless cut. Of course, I don't have the power tool skills that most of you do, and the manual cut takes much longer.

Ray, South Thomaston General store has the absolute best lobsta rolls in the world. Big, fresh, fairly priced, and you walk across the street to watch the locals cast for stripers in the raging current, while munching on your feast. I think you should move there!

Yikes Jeff, something else to keep me awake at night! You are indeed correct, it looks like water could pool just forward of the stringers. I may cut a small wedge, or perhaps drill a hole to allow water flow. I guess I'll also add one more strip just for insurance. I'm beginning to think I should have done what Ray suggested, that is omit the stringers altogether and use heavy 'glass on the bottom. I think I would have if he hadn't made the comment about it being a bear to apply. Ray, I hope to stop in to see your work someday, (and to thank you for all your valuable advise). I head down the coast about 2-3 times a year, just always in a hurry to git there.

OK, now for the question. I had to be creative in the placement of the bottom stringers due to the fact that they wouldn't lie flat in the suggested position, and I didn't want to risk puckering the hull by forcing them. So, my question is, does that look like enough support or should I add another stringer up closer to the fwd bulkhead? The building process is fun and rewarding, but my progress is very slow. I spend so much time in preparation of each step (well, OK, call it fussing and worrying), that I find the weeks slipping away and summer is half over. Perhaps I'll re-think my goals and make the building fun last all winter, and do the big splash next spring. (That way I can really do alot of fussing and worrying!)

I'm going to try to post photos again, if successful text will follow.