SUKIE

Gary, Congratulations on your (almost) decision. I too built my CS17 from Graham's kit and was impressed with the relative ease of construction considering that I have only very basic carpentry skills. As for the battery, I use a deep cell marine battery which is very heavy and one I don't wish to move around while under way. Therefore, its fastened in the lazarette with heavy nylon strapping and the power wire runs under the hatch cover to the motor. I would like to install a plug so I can leave the hatch fastened when using the motor (that plug costs about $40!) A good spring project - add it to the list! OK, so order that boat soon so you can have it ready for spring!!

In answer to your question regarding use of a trolling motor. Yes, I use a MinnKota 40 lb thrust trolling motor on my CS17. It pushes it along just fine in smooth water, but I've never tried it when it's rough (rough means wind, and wind means "set the sails!!") I also have a set of oars which work fine, just didn't want to have to depend on them to take me over 5 miles home when the wind gives out. I was attracted to the electric motor because 1)anything gasoline powered will not work for me when I really want it to, and 2)I just wanted to keep it simple Good luck making your decision - I'd vote for the CS17 myself (although I may be just a bit bias) And, "YES!!" to the kit.

Hello Rod, Sorry for my delayed response, but I have a great excuse. Been kayaking "down east" on the coast of Maine for the last week, and, it didn't rain! To answer your questions, I use a deep cell, 12 volt marine battery which weighs just about the maximum I can lift with one arm (maybe 30 lbs??) The propeller is just barely under water, actually breaks the surface when we get any waves. I had cut off about 4" of the motor shaft to fit the whole thing in the lazarette, now wish I hadn't done that. Oh well, next boat. . . .

Joel, This is a problem. The battery is in the lazarette, meaning that the power cord has to go under the hatch. I looked at a plug that would allow me to keep the hatch cover fastened, but the plug alone was something like $44. A little steep for me, so untill my piggy bank fills I'll run the wire under the hatch. The motor can be tilted up and almost clears the water, but usually I store it under the foredeck where it fits thwartships and sits on wooden cleats so it won't shift.

Here are the promised photos of my motor mount, designed to be as unobtrusive as possible, yet still funtional. And, it works beautifully. I use a MinnKota 30 lb thrust which pushes us along just fine, and absolutely quiet. I've only really used it once, 8 miles up a lake, out of wind, and had to be home. Rats, I'd have rather sat it out untill the 4 o'clock breeze!

You know, I remember after doing that step and thinking, "I'm sure glad these will never be seen by anyone!" Yours, on the other hand, look terrific. Now, git that boat in the water!

Wow, was that ever a fun and exciting 3 day trip! A friend and I have been kayak camping together for years and I convinced her that it would be really fun to do it in the "Lady Grace". Well, to begin with, we decided we had lots more space, so brought far more stuff than we should have. You know how it is, if there's space, FILL it!! So, we launched on Thurs, about 3:00 and had a 10 mile sail to our remote campsite (managed by the state of NH). We had a wonderful sail and were making camp by 6:00. Then we had to unload alll that extra stuff, hauling it over slippery rocks in about a foot of water. The huge difference was that I had to moor the boat out from the rocks, use a second anchor so she wouldn't swing into shore, and a line tied to her so I could haul her in to shore. Quite alot of fussing about to get everything right, and then here comes the WIND!! Wow, it blew like crazy all night, and Friday we had FOUR violent T-storms. I was seriously thinking of breaking open a cold (yes, we brought a cooler too) beer at 10 AM! Saturday dawned clear and calm so we set out for a little fishing. Well, all you have to do is throw a fishing line over and the wind will come up, which it did very quickly. While sailing back to camp, doing about 5 knots on a beam reach, we hit a rock, HARD, and the downhaul line snapped like kite string. (There are no navigational charts, and very few markers in these northern lakes, so you're always taking your chances). Back to camp, and after packing and loading (an hour's job), we set sail again to head back down to the launching ramp, wind 10-20 knots, on our tail the whole way. Did we ever FLY!! We sailed the 10 miles in about 1 1/2 hours. So, next camping trip I'll make sure I know where I'll be anchoring (not off a shore full of rocks), and take about 1/2 the amount of gear. Oh, the CB didn't look like it was damaged at all, I had done the epoxy filled rope on the forward edge and I guess it really works. Now I need to rest for a few days from my vacation!

Wes, Congrats to you and Anna! So, my advise to you is to go sailing as much as you can until the great event, time will become more precious afterwards. . . And, as to the oar handles, there's an old New England saying about oiling: Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year forever. Your handles look great, mine have more of a, well, shall we say, a handmade look! :'( Sukie

Charlie, So, git goin' already!! You'll be missed here, I've always valued your sage advise. Have a wonderful adventure. Sukie

Thank you all for your gracious comments, they mean alot to me. And, as for the motor dilema. . . Hirlilonde, I grew up sailing on our familys 32' cutter, built in 1920. I think the motor was from the same year, and never could be depended on. We frequently sailed into harbors, tacking between closely moored boats to drop anchor (throwing the lead line for depth as we went). One time we attempted to tack through Woods Hole, at the base of Cape Cod, a ledgendary place for watching boats get swept onto the rocks. We finally had to back off and wait for the tide to change, but that was after an hour of sailing to and fro against wind and tide. I totally agree with you about not depending on a motor to save your neck. I was thinking more about when I'm 15 miles up one of those wonderful Maine lakes, not a breath of air, and darkness setting in. Yes, I could row, but would I want to...? and Ray, thanks for the compliment on my rowing. I've been doing it for a l-o-n-g time! and, I'm going to try the vertical board, and I'll build a wood bracket into which it will slide effortlessly when needed. hahahahaha I can always dream.

Ray, Did you notice how many boats at the Regatta had motor brackets? Well, there were about 5 that I saw, but they were very low profile and hardly noticable at all. I've looked at some commercial ones but they cost waaaaay to much, which is why I'll make mine of wood (I hope). After all, when on comes up against an island, and the wind is stacking up, what's a person to do? So, my answer is, those parallelogram shaped brackets are much too obtrusive (not to mention just plain ugly).

Ray, You weren't supposed to read that part! I have aft deck, which does make it a little trickier. Jeff, Wow, what an eye for detail. Yup, I have #218 on the main, and #281 on the mizzen. Graham's sending me new numbers for the mizzen! I hope I don't have to register for a race before then.

And what a beautiful moment it was! Even though I was in such a rush that I didn't finish a few key elements (jam cleats for mizzen sheet, downhaul for CB, downhaul for mizzen), and I was missing the block for main downhaul, I made do and we all had a terriffic sail. By the way, in a pinch one can use a wedge to keep the CB down. Now I have just a little work to really finish her. Ray, stop reading here. Has anyone build a motor mount of wood? I have a 30lb thrust electric motor which I was encouraged to get and now feel I may as well be ready to use it. I was thinking of a simple vertical board that slides into a wooden bracket. Only thing on the boat when not in use would be the wooden bracket, 3/4" lumber. OK, I'll try to attach photos. Last one, we're looking skyward for the champagne cork!!

NOW I'm sure we'll head down the ramp next week! But first, off to Maine for the Small Reach Regatta where 50 small wooden boats sail around in the fog and have a wonderful time. I really can't wait. My boat (Lady Grace) will not be going this year, but surely I'll be ready by next year at this time (let's hope)

What is the maximum length oar I can stow under the foredeck of a CS17? I have the thru-the-bulkhead PVC tubes which run all the way to the bow. The oars I have are 9'9" and the measurement from aft end of CB trunk to fwd end of PVC tube is 8'8". I want cut the oars in the middle and scarf back together. If I make them 8'8", will it be possible to maneuver them into place without too much difficulty? Thanks all, Sukie

From studying the plans it appears that the tiller is permanently attached to the rudder. Is this correct? It seams to me that every small boat I've sailed has some kind of pivoting arrangement, allowing the helmsman to stand and still stear comfortably. However, I don't see that in the plans. Also, if it's permanent, isn't that a large awkward thing to move and store for trailering? How have you all done this? Thanks, Sukie

Hey Ray, Thanks I'll probably take you up on your offer. See you there!

Jeff, Hahahaha. Actually, if I have enough material I'll do the full 2nd layer on the inside of coaming. I would feel better with that. And, if it breaks I'll redo it heavier. After all, I'll need something to keep me busy next winter. Ray, It's interesting to hear that you're painting a previously bright deck. I was so conflicted on my decision to paint, but now feel justified. No, I'm not bringing a boat (my CS17's not quite done). However, my husband an I will be camping in my Teardrop camper I built a few years ago. I'll be crew for my brother who is bringing a (gasp) fiberglass Sea Pearl. Also, Graham invited me to sail with him some.

Wow Ray, that's really SOLID. I like the idea of a thicker top and easier on the bottom. I'm looking forward to seeing your boat at the Small Reach Regatta. What boat will you bring?

Thankyou thankyou Wes!

OK let's see, I've been camping on Prince Edward Island for a week, camping and paddling the wonderful remote lakes of northern Maine for a week, and attended a family graduation party in Chicago. So NOW it's time to get this boat in the water!! I chose to use 4mm okume for the coaming, first because I had it, and second because I thought it would bend easily. After soaking in hot water for about 1/2 hour it was very easy to bend into the corners (with nary a cracking sound!) But since it's so thin I know I'll need another layer. Now the question, can I get away with doing just a partial layer on the outside, ending on the deck surface, and leaving only one layer over the carlins? I ask this because I may be a little short of material and was just quoted $85 (eightyfive!!) for a 4x8 sheet. Any advise, comments, or musings are appreciated. Sukie

"I think the forward deck beam, the notched bit of dimensional lumber provided with the kit, is glued to the top forward side of the forward bulkhead. Does that sound correct?" Yes, the included beam is installed just aft of the forward bulkhead. You need to make your own beams that are attached to the forward and aft bulkheads, so just trace the shape from the bulkheads. Congrats on your progress!! And yes, you'll build another boat. My husband keeps saying "So, when are you going to get rid of some of these boats?" I've built a rowboat and 3 kayaks, sold the rowboat, and am now building a CS17 from kit. My launch date was May 1st, then june 1st, and now, hopefully July 6th. It's the little stuff!

Dave and Wes, thanks for the advice. I hadn't thought about the difference in thickness showing up as you mentioned Dave, but that is the kind of mistake I'm liable to make. So, I think I have enough of the 4 mm to do the whole thing with 2 layers, I'll stagger the joints so I don't think I'll need to scarf. And, I'll keep the height of coaming consistent throughout, 3" above the deck forward, 2" aft. Thanks again guys. Sukie

OK, I'm stuck. Time for a consultation. I'm getting ready to cut and install the coaming, and have read many posting about the materials, steaming/boiling water treatments, height, etc. After doing the research, I'm still baffled by one statement made by Ray. Ray, you said you like to keep the width of the coaming consistent through the entire length of the cockpit, for aesthetic reasons. So, that must mean that as it approaches the stern, it hangs down past the carlins by an inch or so. Am I understanding you correctly? I have some 4mm okume left over from a kayak project, so I'll be using 2 layers of that for the curves. Will it look bad to try to use 6mm for the straight runs, taking up the difference in thickness at the scarfs? (I'm looking forward to meeting you and your boat at the Small Reach Regatta Ray. Perhaps I can buy you a beer!? Smuttynose!) Thanks all. Sukie

Hey, Hooray, I've finished glueing up one mast part and it came out great! I spent much more time researching and worrying about it than it took to cut out the parts, taper, and glue. Tonite I'll glue up the other section. Once again I'm aware of my ignorance regarding trailers. I have a used trailer that's in good shape, but I need to adjust it to fit the CS17 and I'm at a loss. How much weight should be put on the center rollers, and how much on the side boards? The brackets holding the boards are shot so I'm building new ones from pressure treated 2x6s, and the boards themselves will be 2x4s covered with carpeting. Also, do I need a specific type of carpeting to facilitate the sliding of launching and retrieving? I've seen something in catalogs called slicks which go on top of those boards and are supposed to be slippery. Are these necessary? Thanks Gentlemen!