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Pete McCrary

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Everything posted by Pete McCrary

  1. Chick, I may be at the mess-about, but without Chessie. I might bring "Tattoo," my CLC PocketShip, which I'm trying to sell. I'm presently planning to participate (w/"Tattoo") in the Mid-Atlantic Small Craft Festival the first weekend in October.
  2. To drop into the cabin of a Cs20.3 from its bridge deck requires stepping over a 3" sill and a drop of almost 26" to the cabin floor. In navy parlance a "ladder" is needed. I want one with two steps (built in). That will be three risers of almost 9" each. I also want it to be easily removed from the companionway to serve as a stool and maybe even a table for a meal or board game -- either in the cabin or out on deck. And this photo doesn't show the sill that will also have to be stepped over. I recall seeing a chair that unfolded into a small step ladder that would be very useful in anyone's kitchen. Has a multi-purpose Cabin Ladder already been invented? Sure would like to hear of any ideas other builders may have on the subject. In the meantime, I'll keep thinking of various concepts. If one comes to mind, I'll try to sketch it out and share it with the forum.
  3. The cabin floor of my Cs20.3 is approximately a 47" trapazoid with fwd end width of 10.5" and aft width of 24.5". The keel (and bottom planks) rise about an inch from the water ballast boxl towards #49 bunk support. The photos below show floor that I fabricated from yellow pine. The floor beams are 3/4" spaced to match the cleat placement on bunk supports #50 and #51 and profiled to the curvature of the bilge. There are 9 floor boards -- also of yellow pine, planned down to 9/16th". They are spaced approximately 1/8" appart. A 1/4" pendant at the aft end allows easy removal for access to the bilge. The floor reduces the cabin space only very slightly, from about 4" at the aft end, which also helpfully reduces (by that much) the long step [down] from the bridge deck into the cabin. The finished product (before applying 2 coats of neat epoxy) weighes just 13 lbs.
  4. Fellow builders ... We brought the Cs20.3 hull from the B & B shop to our garage in Manassas, Virginia, on May 14. Shown here, we are sliding the hull and cradle off the trailer onto the level hard-pine floor that I fabricated for building the CLC PocketShip "Tattoo" (now FOR SALE). Shown next to the cradle are the long strakes that needed to be joined by the finger joints. After the glueing and cleanup, they are stowed under the cradle until needed much later. Next to the two-bays (of the garage) is my shop added as a shed to the post & bream garage that I built in 2001 after retirement. There I have a 20' x 8" work "bench" along the opposite wall. There I can fabricate spars up to 22' in lengsth. Also, I have a 30" x 8' work table on which you can see the CB trunk being fabricated. It is there that I "dry" assembled the Cockpit Module. I've always had a problem with mixing small batches of epoxy and fixer. So, I thought I'd try to do partial squirts. After measuring the length of a FULL SQUIRT, I marked the pump shafts for 20%, 40%, 60% and 80%. It's worked pretty well. After the "dry" assembly of the module, it was apparent that getting the module from the shed shop to the hull (in the two-bay garage) would be very difficult. So, it was reassembled [permanently] on saw horses wilthin the two-bay garage next to "Chessie's" hull. You'll see a "fake #46" on the fwd end of the module. I had planned to install #46 after the insertion. However, with good advice from Alan, I decided against that approach. On August 24 and with the help of several neighbors we planned the insertion. I preped the helpers by first showing them the video that Alan and Graham made while inserting a module into [i think] a Cs17 hulll. With a lot of wiggeling and streaching the hull sides out and careful use of a big rubber hammer, it "dropped" into place with a nice THUNK. Just a little more position adjustments -- and it fits perfectly. The top of the module appears to be nearly perfectly in plane and parallel to the level floor. The bottom interfaces so no gaps are more than a mm. Proof of the accuracy of Graham's CAD design and computer driven table-top router. Shown here is the forward end in place. At this point all of the filleting and FG taping has been done aft of #49a EXCEPT for the interior of the module / hull (just the bottom) interfaces. The sides (bulkheads 4 & 5) have not been filleted and glassed in place, but the hull is, nevertheless, now very stiff! The manual instructs that the cabin "foot well" should be carefully glassed (maybe with a double piece of FG for protection from foot traffic). As an alternative, Alan suggested that a floor would accomplish the same. A floor would, of course, also provide a convenient FLAT surface for walking/standing. Alan also pointed out that the bunksupports should nevertheless be filleted and glassed [which I have don]. So, using yellow pine, I fabricated four 3/4" floor beams and nine 9/16" planks. The plank tops were trimmed with a 3/16th roundover bit. The entire assembly weighs in at just 13 lbs. Fits nice and solid. So, that's the progress made so far. I'm usually working two to lthree hours a day (on average). But with other obligations, I can see that I won't be able to meet my target date at the end of October for the "mess-about." Maybe, by early spring?
  5. I discovered an error with respect to the aft side of #31. Correction is shown on the attached files. Cs20 Mk3 Cleat Schedule.pdf
  6. For those (contemplating) taking on construction of a Cs20.3: After cutting and fitting the first couple of cleats, I thought it would be better to rough-cut (at one time) all the cleats needed for assembly so that I wouldn't have to rearrange my shop each time another cleat was needed. So, I made the attached schedule showing the dimensions of each. The small dimensions are as specified, and the long ones just a bit longer than required so as to allow for final trimming. All are welcome to use as reference. Notice of error and omissions would be appreciated. Cs20 Mk3 Cleat Schedule.pdf
  7. Steve & Chick, I'm pretty set on the trench style companionway. Combined with a tent canopy (no designed concept yet*), it will give you walking-around headroom. A hughe advantage for comfort. Last night I in near-sleep I realized a problem with my hatch design concept. There needs to be a way to hold down the hatches so that they won't bounce off when trailer hits a "hump" on the highway OR a big wake or wave on the water OR a knockdown. Later, I'll sketch a concept for that. Probably won't be much trouble. * Has anyone tried their hand at conceiving an easily deployed canopy that would fairly well keep rain and dew out of the cabin and the cockpit forward of the mizzenmast?
  8. Edward, thanks for the idea. Hadn't thought of that. Great idea! I've made such boards to cover part of a cockpit to expand the width of seats into bunks. But also so that I could deploy a beach style chair to relax in at the end of the day. And I've used the beach chair when motoring a transit in a calm or adverse wind & tide. I just love "two-for s." Your idea is at no cost of stowage space.
  9. Yes, I too, put away my weather boards. And on my catboat the doors were lifted off their hinges and stowed. But I worried about the warnings by safety advocates that when sailing, they should be in-place protecting the cabin from ingress of massive amounts of water in case of a knockdown. At 81, you could say that I'm a cautious solo sailor, and I avoid harsh weather. Maybe the cs20.3, when on its beams, the leeward edge of the companionway is above the knock-down water line? Did anyone notice that when Graham did the "righting" demonstration? I would want the doors to be easily removed (and replaced) and also have a dedicated place for convenient stowage. A further comment on the hatch design concept. Being flat and square keeps weight down and is far easier to fabricate. However, being flat w/o any crown -- they probably are not strong enough for rough treatment (like walking on them). Maybe the tops should have little warnings signs (like on some parts of aircraft) saying "NO STEP"? A modest request: It would be appreciated if someone could identify [for me] the member who is building the Core Sound 20 Mk 3, #4.
  10. I, too, like Graham's cascading hatches. From the photos, it looks like he has in mind flat surfaces for each hatch. That would ease the perfection needed for a waterproof and easy sliding assembly. It will still need careful workmanship. I second Tom's suggestion that the limber holes be "seriously" large enough for heavy drenching in high winds. But all precautions won't keep all the water out if you're driving thru a rain squall. Best hope will be to at least try to channel what water comes in down to the bilges without soaking everything in the cabin. I also liked Tom's suggestion of having the aft hatches sliding forward under the others. I've sketched a conceptual design that might be worth considering. With most of the wind nearly always from fore to aft, such a design would seem easier to waterproof. Fabrication seems easy enough with the side coamings cut from solid wood with a set of dado blades. All other joinery is flat and at right angles -- except for the coaming at the forward end of the companionway. And I would think some simple short pieces of weather stripping between the sides of the hatches (1&2 and 2&3) at the aft end of the wider hatch would keep out most rainwater trying to enter aft to forward that might be caused by a "back draft" when on the highway (or parked on shore or in a slip). A little bee's wax or silicon lub would keep them sliding nicely. Concerning the limber holes. For boats that mostly live on a trailer, they need to be easily accessed and sized so they may be cleaned out frequently. I have to cope with substantial pollen and tree debris which I find seems to clog up even very large limber holes. I haven't thought about the door to the companionway and its proper interface with the aft most hatch (and its stowage when not used to close the companionway). From Graham and fellow builders -- I'd welcome critical comments and suggestions. Cascading Hatches.pdf
  11. More progress to May 4 . . Thanks to all for comments. The CB Trunk is assembled with cleats attached on the inboard side. You can see my "trial fit" of the uncovered CB. She rotates nicely, but I've decided to ease the rotation and reduce the internal chaff by placing 1/16" nylon washers on each side of the CB. I know that epoxy won't adhere well to nylon, but I think they will stay in place by the thickened epoxy that slightly overlaps the bevel that I put on the circumference of each washer. The washers only have to stay in place while inserting the CB into its truck for installation of the shaft. When applying the fiberglass, I'll just cut holes where the glass would cover the washers. However, I invite comments on this. Perhaps it would be better to glass the CB first and then apply the washers. At this point it would be easy to "pop" the washers off and sand off the thicken epoxy -- and start over. My measurements show that the 1.5" width of the CB Trunk can easily accept the CB with Glass and Washers on both sides. Suggestions welcome. The CB Bumper is also installed. As recommended by Alan, it's a piece of closed cell foam 6 x 1 x 1-9/16. My source was "Zoro" on the internet, product number "Zoro#G0451945" for one piece of gray closed cell 1 x 12 x 12 for just $7.37 plus tax & shipping. I covered the impact side of the bumper with clear packaging tape for some protection of the foam. Shoved it in place with the 2 x 4 shown on the bench. Next will be attaching the lead weight to the end of the CB and glassing it.
  12. Progress report June 1 -- Finally, I got my shop pretty much organized and have started the project in earnest. B & B did a great job of unfolding the hull, including having the first two bulkheads in place -- filleted and glassed. They also filleted and glassed the keel from top of the stem all the way to the transom. It's a nice wide fillet. The transom was temporarily wired and screwed in place for transport to Virginia. Graham gave me an important tip that I should "trim and fit" each cross member to the keel before I started to assemble the cockpit module. In the photos you'll see them temporarily in place. I started by gluing up all the finger joints. You can see the 20' long shear strakes now under the cradle. Next I started on the CB Trunk before assembly of the module -- which is next. A request for help! I've reviewed nearly all of the cs15 and cs17 videos made by Alan -- but I didn't think to "bookmark" them. I've looked for them, but so far without success. It would be a big help if maybe some of you could send me internet links to the ones that cover: -- Gluing the lead weight to the CB and glassing the entire CB. -- Construction of the mast bushings, collars, and the "ramps" for the sail tracks. Thanks in advance for your help. When found, I'll be sure to "bookmark" them for reference.
  13. Jim, For every fitting attached to deck or spar -- always use bedding compound. Although it increases strength, and the strength may be enough without it, but WITHOUT IT, THERE WILL BE WATER PENETRATION! I learned the hard way. I was in a hurry, near the end of construction, and impatient to get her on the water -- so I skipped the bedding on fittings that I thought wouldn't be immersed in water -- but there was rain water penetration and rot! As a result I have to make a new bow sprit and tabernacle on my PocketShip within less than 5 years. A real bummer. The wood was Douglas Fir -- White Oak may have lasted a little longer.
  14. Fellow builders . . On Wednesday, May 13, Alan and crew loaded my pickup and Chessie's trailer with her hull and the other parts of the Cs20.3 level 2 kit. We were on our way to Manassas, Virginia, by noon. The next day we unloaded the hull (nestled in her cradle) onto the floor of my shop. Its a pretty tight fit into my 23' garage. Next will be to organize the shop for the build out and set up a "parts filing" system so that I can find the next piece needed. Then just get started. I'll dare to announce that my target date for her maiden voyage is October so that she may participate in the "mess about" at the end of the month. If I'm real lucky, maybe also the MASCF in Saint Michaels. You may notice (in the attached photos) that I covered the feet of the cradle legs with "bunk" carpet. At this point, the whole assembly is pretty easy to slid around on the pine floor that I made for a boat-building work space. As she gets heavier, I plan to lubricate the foot pads with some graphite. Hope that works.
  15. Fellow builders: I'm about to start the build-out of a cs20.3 hull and have a local source for Eucalyptus -- also called Grandis by the vendor. Yould any of you have opinions as to its appropriateness for cleat material? Any known drawbacks?
  16. Nice repair job and a lot learned by all. Question: Was the underside of the seat reinforced with fiberglass? If not, then maybe that would have prevented the crack. Something for future builders to consider for each deck space that may be stepped upon. Especially a flat deck surface. The stress (pounds/square-inch) imposed by a foot (toes or heal supporting AND accelerating an entire body) as opposed to the mostly static load of a broad fanny (supporting just a body w/o legs) is orders of magnitude greater. Pete Mc
  17. Getting ready . . Well, guys, things are moving along. Since Alan and the B & B crew "unfolded" the hull on April 8, I've been modifying "Chessie's" trailer so it can transport her cradle and hull from the B & B shop to Manassas, Virginia. The axle assembly was moved forward 16" and I expect a tongue weight of about 100 to 150 lbs. A proof of concept roof rack for the pickup has been constructed and tested. Later, the permanent model will be made from a nice piece of mahogany that I've been saving. The third photo shows my back-yard garage/shop, the pickup with the prototype roof rack, the trailer with cross-beams, the CLC PocketShip "Tattoo," and the open space in the garage where "Chessie" will be constructed and fitted out. The shop is in the "shed" extension. The cradle and hull will be off-loaded into the garage space next to the shop on a level yellow pine floor. That's the same space where I constructed "Tattoo" in 2010. Working on a level wooden floor is much easier than coping with an uneven concrete floor with a slight drainage slope towards its door. We're hoping to transport all items from the B & B shop sometime in May or early June. I'm still planning a spring 2016 maiden voyage. Pete Mc PS1 -- You may have noticed the "cedar-strip" cap for the pickup. Within the next week or so, I'll post some remarks and photos of its construction on the Woodworking page of these forums. PS2 -- Do any of you know if a posting (that isn't yet finished) can be saved? And how it's done?
  18. I recently bought a Ridgid trim router thinking that I'd order a "tilt" base as an accessory -- but it's not available! It also had height adjustment problems like the RyobiRidgid. I returned it to Home Depot the next day.
  19. Fantastic! Beautiful! Chessie's trailer has been recovered from American Truck & Trailer with its axle moved forward 16.5". Stripped with only the winch stand in place it weights just at 400 lbs at the axle and 500 lbs with the wheel jack down -- so, tongue weight is at 100 lbs. The scale at Manassas waste management site is certified to +/- 20 lbs. Next I'll mount the spare tire and the 2 x 6 cross members to which we will mount the cradle with Chessie's hull (when ready). This is getting exciting! Pete Mc
  20. Fellow builders -- considering electrical systems for the cs20.3. I'll probably have a deep-cycle 12v battery as a power source for GPS, smart phone, maybe a water ballast pump, etc. But not for lights. I'll try to find a good source for LED navigation lights powered with dry cell batteries in each unit. My night-time travel on the water is very infrequent and wouldn't justify wiring and its maintenance and connections/ switching troubles. As a recharging source I'm thinking of a fold-up portable solar panel (mounted on a lightweight 1/4" plywood panel) that could be secured ahead of the foremast over the anchor well. It could be designed so that it would stay in place when sailing and be easily removed (and stowed) while mast raising (or lowering) or deploying (or recovering) the anchor and ground tackle. The battery and charging stations could be well forward so as to keep wiring to a minimum. That would also be about 60 to 70 lbs placed low and forward -- helping the boat's weight distribution for a solo sailor (like me). Critical comments and suggestions are welcome. Pete Mc
  21. Thanks Steve -- Yes, I'm a member and have 3 times participated in their small craft festival. I hope to have "Chessie" at the 2016 event.
  22. I'd answer if I knew what "MASCF at the CBMM" stands for. Pete Mc
  23. I'm not sure what you mean. But I liked the hatches described to me by Graham as opposed to the canvas hatch that Dough installed.
  24. Greetings fellow builders, My next project (my 9th small wooden boat) will be the cs20.3 Level 2 kit. B&B has agreed to assemble the hull to the point where it may be safely transported (in its cradle) on my trailer from NC to my shop in Manassas, Virginia. My target launch date is early spring 2016. I think Steve W saw the hull being assembled at B&B. As soon as the order was placed I ordered a Load Rite trailer which arrived last week. Its dimensions and weight distributions are now known. The axle must be moved forward 16.5" so that the tongue weight will be about 160 lbs when loaded with a cs20.3 of 1,200 lbs (equipped and ready for sailing). The trailer is rated for 2,200 lbs cargo -- so the springs may have to be adjusted (or replaced) to soften the ride. Now in retirement, I find my time in the shop as therapeutic. My first boat was a plywood 11 foot sailing dinghy built in 1963 from plans out of "Popular Boating." Then following that -- an Alcort Sail Fish (kit) in 1967, a DN iceboat (1969), a 15' 6" cedar strip canoe (2003), a Penobscot 14 from plans by Arch Davis ( 2005), a Nutshell Pram (kit) by Joel White, a 14' 10" LOD PocketShip (kit) by CLC's John Harris, and lastly a "nesting" Eastport Pram (kit) also from CLC. The cs20.3 will be named "Chessie" after the C & O RR's sleeping kitty, the Loch Ness monster, or our Chesapeake Bay. While "Chessie" is being built, I'll be sailing "Tattoo," my PocketShip. The attached photo shows her on the Sassafras River on a rainy day in May 2012. Tattoo is the Army's longest and most beautiful bugle call -- which is played in barracks 15 minutes before Taps. Apropos for his old man, says my #3 son.
  25. Greg, That beautiful stool reminds me of a stool my father (Samuel E. McCrary, 1908 - 1975) made in wood shop class as a student at Central High School in Washington, DC. I discovered the stool when I settled his sister's estate in 1985 and I made good use of it for years. It finally gave out a year or so ago from wood rot and (probable) abuse. It was about the size of the one made for your granddaughter. She will find good use for it throughout her life. A stool is a great "starter" project for a shop student. And a very useful item in any household. Pete McCrary
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