Joe Nelson CS#35

Brent, With your mizzen sheet system (and now mine borrowed from you) you wont have any problems with fouling of the sheet for your mizzen with the motor. I like my braket and 4 horse Yamaha. No fuss with cutting the transom. Just 4 holes for the braket. I did add some 1" thick backing wood for the bracket bolts. I glued in a piece that was big enough to span the whole braket bolt pattern. I trailer with my motor hung from the bracket. No problems. I think it weighs like 45#. A bit of a beast, but sure is nice to have the reserve power when sailing in windless areas with tidal exchange. You take on a 5 knot current and the 2hp may not be adequate? Depends on where you sail. I do know people who have the 2 horse honda's and love them. But I have reverse gear and they dont.

Let us know what you come up with!!!

Use you existing bulkhead and set it in place. Use a mixing (popsickle stick) set it flat against the bulkhead and the end touching the inside of the hull (roughly perpendicular to the hull). Mark the opposite end of the stick (on your old bulkhead) with a sharpie...tracing around the end (draw long enough down the stick so you can orient the stick in later). Do this 3-4 times on each bulkhead face. Your marks dont need to be perfectly parallel. Just roughly perpendicular. Now get a new piece of plywood and set your old bulkhead on top of it. Lline your popsickle stick up with your marks and place a new mark on the new plywood at the point of the other end of stick. Just a dot will do. This will give you the exact points for a custom fit bulkhead. Now connect the dots with a batten like you do for drawing a fair line on all your other curved cuts. I did this with cardboard to make patterns for parts on my Tolman Skiff. Works everytime!

Any kind of wrap up of this year's event???

I have a braket on mine that swings down. Because of the rocker to the hull, my short shaft would cavitate unless I was sitting on the back deck. I must admit that I set the braket up per the instructions...like for a planing hull and didnt take into account the hull rocker. I think a long shaft is best though. If you go to the front of the boat it will not starve for water. I got a 4 horse Yamaha 4 stroke and I think it is the ideal motor for the CS20. It pushes me at about 6mph @ 3/4 throttle. Its great when the wind dies and you have river current. I can actually come home! I still steer the boat with the tiller until you get too shallow or for tight manouvering while docking. Keep that centerboard down at least a bit. She responds a lot better and doesnt get pushed around in the wind as much.

I am interested in knowing what the perfromance difference is like between the spinnaker and the stays'l.

I recommend a recliner and a TV. You wont need to go into the house very often

What happens when the magnetic poles flip? 2012 or something like that. Coincidence or not, that coinsides with the end of the Aztec calendar. Heard a guy on late night talk radio talking about this. Said it will be an event rather than a process. Ocean and atmospheric currents reversing and putting massive stress on the fault plates and expect a world wide changing event. Even if it is not catistrophic, think of the implications of the weather and ocean currents running in reverse. Worst thing would be your bathtub drain swirl going in the opposite direction Makes the PNW have an offshore flow rather than onshore. And we worry about global warming. Sheesh. Might be time to buy ocean propert in the new dry oregon climate. That would also flatten out the ocean too. Right now when we get a rare east wind, that is the calmest time to be out on the big blue. Could change the population decities and distribution world wide???

I need a good solution for mounting a radar dome on my 18' power boat. I have been wondering if it would be feasible to mount the dome on a stainless tube and swing it up into place using a princess type tabernackle? The small boat unit from furuno only weighs 10#. I figure using a stainless tube and having a plate welded onto the top at a slight downward angle to compensate for the boat squat while underway. I dont see going much faster than 15 mph in fog...so that makes my boat squat angle about 5% at that speed. I plan on going offshore 30+ miles for tuna. NOAA forecasts are very reliable here. The big variable when you have a good wave and swell forecast is visability. That means radar...since the chances of being seen by another boat's radars is slim with an epoxy glass boat...it is nice to know who is in the neighborhood. Other ideas welcome as well. I really dont want to buy a stainless arch or tee top. Spendy and heavy.

Very nice interior finish details!

Sails have been sold! Thank you Graham for the opportunity to use your forum for my person gain. One forum member got a great deal on a set of sails!

Yes, I still have the sails. I will e-mail you.

Charlie, Do you have empty nest syndrome when a boat leaves or do you run to the bank...skipping and jumping?

Cant give you any reports on performance, but I understand it will be about twice the cost of the LPU product.

Very cool, Graham! Congratulations on getting the CNC all figured out. It will be nice to have all the seat and panel shapes included in a kit. We all had to develop those ourselves. I like the way to chines fit together like a puzzle. Hope that you sell a ton of kits!

One thing I like about it is that there is no danger of explosion when using it in a cold shop with a woodstove. I spray and the clean up is all in a sink with water. Very cool. I can also say that you can recoat very quickly between coats. I put 4 coats of primer and 7 coats of topcoat on my Core Sound 20. Very tough finish too. It is a bit tough to spray without ending up with a slightly matt finish, because it dries so fast and the paint doesnt have time to float flat before it dries. The areas I rolled and tipped are higher gloss.

Graphite will wear through eventually. We use UHMW on anything that requires a slippery surface and wear resistance. It comes as thin as 1/4" and up to at least 3/4. It was developed for the wood mill industry for chaifing of chains, etc.. If you need a small amount to put under a mast, I would send it to you. It cuts with wood working tools. It makes great bottom strake and keel protectors. No glue will stick to it...needs to be screwed in place.

Jim, Are you building a Core Sound yet? We already share the Tolman affliction.

Not aware of the associated struture, would it be feasible to convert my already built CS 20 to a tabernackle?

I step the mast on my CS20 by standing on a small step ladder. I really dont like being in or on the boat when it is on the trailer.

The latest sprit design has changed from when I got my plans. Graham sent me the new one with my sail track order. The fore end of the sprits are now tapered where the block attaches to align the block better to the becket. Also now there is a dowel in the aft end of the sprit rather than a carved taper. Are these modifications helping. Is it worth modifying mine? I could make the dowel long like Brent suggests for taking up the new reef loop and leaving the old loop attached. I have never gotten my main snotter to operate smoothly. Would the change in angle on the sprit help?

I was thinking about drilling a hole in the aft end of the sprit at the un-tapered area and adding a cord. Thread the cord through the loop in the sail and then use the cord to guide the sprit into the loop. Both times I have needed to reef, the wind came up so fast and hard that I had a hard time getting the end of the sprit into the new loop...trying to hold both the sail and the sprit and having the effects of the wind pushing on the sail or flapping it back and forth. I would just about get it to the loop when a gust would come up again and requiring starting the process all over again. I think I will add a topping lift to both sails. This will keep things closer to alignment. I also like the idea of a downhual for the two reef eyes in the sails. We are going from ultra simple (sleeve luffs) to pretty complicated.

Gary, Just curious...what are the specs on your strips and how much glass will be used over/under the stirps? Or are we that far yet? With enough glass, should be able to use thinner stirps. I would personally rather use less wood and more glass and epoxy. Glass is more predictable than wood. A lot of boats in your size range will use biaxial cloth inside and out. It is a little of a pain to fair, due to the stitching. But you can run a scraper over it and remove most of the stitching after the initial glassing has cured.

What about Plascore? http://www.plascore.com/pdf/Marine_Flyer.pdf They are using it on another forum I visit to build driftboats. Its a honeycomb product that has a covering over each side so that it can be covered with glass and epoxy. Only problem I see is the engineering behind the keel attachment. You cant put fasterners in it and expect them to hold. I would assume that you can fillet and tape a bulkhead with no problem. Would probably need to install a wood king plank to set keel bolts into.

I noticed that the Princess has the same motor as my Core Sound. Is the 4 horse adequate? It is a great little motor!