Joe Nelson CS#35

It is not my intension to belittle your question...but cutting out the panels is such a small part of building. The panels can be cut with just about anything. If it were me, I would use the saw you have and save the money for a tool that doesnt duplicate the tasks you already have covered. There is always a "better tool". A CNC router would be nice. The construction method is forgiving as to the accuracy of your cuts...to a degree. You want to be accurate but small diviations are not going to effect the overall outcome. Fortunately the finish work is a long way off. By then you will be more proficient with whatever tool you dicide to use. Thats all I have to say about that. (Forrest Gump)

My dealings were with Edensaw in Port Townsend Washington. I was thoroughly pleased doing business with them!

Gotcha...thanks!

Why is it that some of the pictures come up as an attachment that have to be opened manually and others come up automatically? There must be a different process. The only way I have found so far is the one that has to be opened manually. Thanks, Joe

I personally dont care for weighting a centerboard. I know it gets the weight down lower but it can be dangerous when in sharp seas. Banging can tear it loose from the boat. But I am a west coaster. What applies here may not be pertainant in Florida. I would prefer the ballist to be stationary. Joe

On the outboard side, note the plywood support added to my hatch. The plywood gusset follows the contour of my fillets.

The motor issue...Its amazing how flimbsy production sailboat transoms can be. I had a Catalina 22 and you could flex the transom visibly via the motor mount that hung off the transom. I had a honda 7.5 4 stroke on it. It was recommended that you not transport the boat with the motor attached. I think the same could be applied to the core sounds. You wont have a problem in the water. I added a later vertical support in the center of the transom. Also used a larger top frame. Then added a backer to the transom where the motor mount will go. If you use big fillets, that will help too. Most of the fillets I see in web pages are too small (use a larger radious tool to apply the fillet material). This helps to spread the load out to the other panels without stressing the joint so much. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

The vertical reefing looks practical. Even jiffy vertical seems possible. Then all you need to do is slack off the snotter. reef the sail and readjust the snotter. There seems to be some difference in oppinion as to the effect of the bunched up sail against the mast has on the efficientcy of the rig...but safety seems more important than efficientcy if reefing is necessary while underway. This way there is no need for a halyard and the lacing on the mast is not a hinderance either. Now the 3 piece mast will work fine and no tracks are necessary. Should be no more expensive to have the reef points installed vertically than horizontal. Just need more adjustment in your snotter rig to accomidate the 24" or so difference in the sprit rig reefed and not reefed.

Best information I could find...on the net to share on reefing of sprit sails. A personal web site http://www.geocities.com/sanmi/reefing/reefing.html Jim Michalak's Essay's http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1999/0701/Index.htm Wooden boat forum http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=001073&p= Wooden boat forum http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=001506 Hope that these help. They helped me to clearify my thinking. Thanks Graham too for your comments!

One could also lace above the single piece of track. I have been doing some research. Chappele has some interesting ideas in his small boat book. You can use beads on the lacings to allow the sail to move up and down easier. But we still have the issue of the sprit. That would need to be relocated. Uphaul, downhaul for the sprit? Kinda like rigging for a spi pole? Then a longer adjustment for the snotter? Hummmmmmmmmm?

Dont worry...its all related. I am open to any ideas regarding reefing and sail handling from the cockpit. How about this one? [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

:shock: With a 3 section mast (3", 2.5", 2" diameters), how does one attach a sail track? :?: Joe

I installed the stringer between the fore/aft bulkheads. Then installed the mid bulkheads in the side benches...along with the nailers that get glued to them. I then marked the stringer with 1' station lines starting at one corner. Pulled a string line through holes in the fore/aft bulkheads to make sure the stringer was straight and true. Made sure the boat was level both directions. Used a plumb bob and dropped a dimple on the hull bottom from each station mark. Then simply use a stick to measure the height at each station and marked the stick 1,2,3... Draw station lines on your plywood and use the stick to mark the height at each station line on your plywood. Then faired the lines just like you did when you layed out the hull panels. I made no cardboard patterns and it came out perfect. You can use the same station lines to make your seat tops later. Joe

You just have to get your hands dirty! The learning curve for working with epoxy is not that bad. Read the Epoxy book from System 3. Its available online in PDF format. Re-read the sections in Devlin's book on laying out panel curves, wiring the hull, fillets and taping seams. I find new information almost everytime I pick up the book. Its worth reading many times. I would hesitate to go the route he describes for removing stitches with a battery. Depends on wire type and size. Some wire just burns like a fuse and you have to dig them out. Do the tabbing with a popsickle stick and cut/remove stitches prior to doing your final (larger) fillet. The tutorials at Bateau are very good. He is a smart businessman but I would be careful about building anything from his web site that has not been built and tested. With a little study and the support Graham gives over the phone and on his forum, I am confident that you can start with the project that best suits your needs.

The plans call for a tollerance between the board and case. Is this the total tollerance or tollerance for each side of the board? (no less than 1/16th and not more than 1/8th)

I would just stack the panels and run a screw or nail through both panels and that will give you the points needed on the other panel. Alternately you could extend the station lines to the edge of the marked panel, draw it across the second panel...top and bottom, draw the station lines on the second panel from the marks on the edges. Then measure up or down and mark the points based on your measurements. This is probably a better solution since you will want station lines on all panels anyway for future reference and lining up panels.

I have a couple of comments to make. First the boat you are considering from Bateau is untested and I know of none that have been completed. Jacques' designs are known to contain mistakes. The design is a new one for him. I feel the risk just too high for me to consider building. If you do some studies on your own, you should be fine to take on the CS20. I am a firm believer in building what meets your needs and not just what is easy. I would read Devlin's book on boat building. I found it to ne appropriate for building a B&B design.

I would consider it a sharpie with vee hull. Most of the traditional sharpies had a flat bottom. The most recent isssue of Wooden Boat gives some historical perspective to the Core Sound history. Although the ariticle is mostly about power boats. I would assume that the early core sound sailboat followed a simular path. Cat ketch, vee hull sharpie, open daysailer. It's hard to decribe because there are not a lot of simular boats to reference.