mrthethird

In my experience, the mixing ratio has no relation to quality. I believe it is relative only to the chemicals used in making it. Each manufacture has a different "recipe", and therefore each resin uses a different type and amount of catalyst, or hardener. I have not used a 1:1 epoxy, but I have used System Three, which is 2:1, DMC, which is 4:1, and West Systems, which was 5:1. All were very high quality, and achieved excellent adhesions. The mixing ratio for epoxy is specific to each manufacturer, and should be strictly adhered to. Polyester and vinylester mixing ratios can be modified slightly, but epoxy will not cure properly if not mixed exactly to manufacturer's specified ratio.[/b]

Sailing Just For Fun A.C. Stock

When the epoxy mixes with the wood dust, it will darken, substantially darker than the original wood. Check the color by mixing a small amount of wood dust with a drop or two of the resin (it doesn't have to be mixed with hardener for this test). Then check it against a piece of mast wood stained the color you are going to use.

Yeah, but I'm recyclin' ta keep the tree-huggers happy

Wood flour is a thickening agent. It is a very fine wood powder, similar to what you find in your belt sander. So similar, that that is what I use, since the dust in my sander is the same as the wood I'm gluing, usually.

Ok, would you use straight epoxy, or thicken it (with wood flour or micro-ballons)?

Damn. :pale:

I had read that the slide system is 10% more efficient than the hoops, but I have not sailed before, therefore I am missing much hands-on experience. I don't know how the slide would work with the gaff rig, or even if it would make a difference. Very many questions, not even sure what to ask yet, if you know what I mean.

Hey, Phil, is Jim Gowans any relation?

Hey, register my boats for me!!! Seriously, though, I have written my legislators, senators, and the governer. I will look into signing petitions with any groups trying to do something about this. I cannot afford $500.00 a year to register two homemade boats. Kinda shuts down the hobbyist.

That's the look! Yes, Charlie, but then they'd be store-bought... No, I saw a boat with these mast hoops, and noticed how much quieter they were than the wood or pvc hoops. Just a personal preference. I may end up lacing the sail, but for now, this is the plan.

Well, now, wouldn't you know it. Past the point of no return, got the hull sides glued on. Got a little out of order, and put in the hatch box. Angle on the cabin bulkhead is off 5 deg. Shoulda checked that befor screwin' it in.... No way to correct it now, without breakin' glue joints. Can't see where it's hurting anything. Guess it'll be just a teense more streamlined! The next issue, probably related somehow, is the Lazerette. For whatever reason, the lazerette panel is an inch smaller than the space it should fit into. :? Tried pushing the deck down to fit it, but it was stressing the wood way too much. Plus, isn't this panel supposed to be removeable? My first thought is to just cut a panel to fit, but I don't know if this will affect the steering later down the road. Any thoughts on this?

Just for the info, what diameter rope did you use for the lacing?

The rope hoops, for the record, are for purely aesthetic reasons. The "salty" look of rope, plus the "creaking" noise as the rope pulls agin' the mast are what I'm looking for. Lacing may or may not work, as the hemp (or manila) rope might not run through the grommets in the sail properly, or at least no easily... The epoxy was not to stiffen the rings, necessarily, but to improve wear and keep the rings from coming apart. The twine idea would look better, all around. I'll have to look for 3 braid 1/2" hemp rope. As I am just putting the hull sides on the boat now, the mast hoops are some moons down the road. Just trying to nail down the particulars before I get there. Chaotic organization theory in practice. There was a thread on building your own wood pulleys, but I can't seem to find it. By the way, building my own boat is bringing back the "Gilligan's Island" gag lines at work, for those of you old enough to remember...."Think that's gonna get you off the island, Mr. Howell?".... :evil: :? :wink:

Has anyone tried using 5/8" or 3/4" rope for mast hoops? Thinking about splicing the rope into hoops, them coating with epoxy. Interested in other opinions.

Posting seems to be working, now. Thanks, Frank. Anyway, don't know if my message got through in any fashion or not, so I'll try again. I have had three Grizzly products in my cabinet shop. I have had no luck with them. In short, the motors had no staying power. The slew of special features that came with them could not be kept in adjustment after a few months of use. The table saw I bought now has a General motor and arbor, and has been working fine for two years or better (although I am not jumping to endorse General, they just happened to have a motor that fit). In all, it is just my opinion, but I believe that the flashy extras are a distraction from the quality. Understand, this is just my experience. Fender Guitar company has issued a strong endorsement for Grizzly shapers. With Fender's liabilities, I don't believe the endorsement was "purchased", but I do not share their opinion of Grizzly's craftmanship. For what it's worth, I would still investigate the DC, but I would be more skeptical of the motor.

I'll agree with the consensus... :? You can't really go wrong with mahogany or alder. Redwood and Red Cedar are great choices, being very easy to carve, but you need to be more selective. The lighter color "sap" wood is not as rot resistant, so you want to select boards that are mostly if not all the dark red, "heartwood". Alder and mahogany can be easily had in the widths and lengths needed for a Skipjack keel, or even a Weekender keel, in straight, clear grain. I'd like to see a carved figurhead, been thinkin about it myself. Post pics.

The DAP Weldwood Plastic Urea Resin glue is a good choice, will handle the stress well and is waterproof. Need to clamp it good and tight, though. The epoxy would be a good choice, too. Just don't clamp it as tight as the plastic resin glue. Don't want to squeeze it all out. Yadee yadee ya ya.... As for the screws, I would think stainless steel should be fine, especially since you are covering the finished product with epoxy as well, but I'm no tto that point on my boat yet :oops:

Congratulations and good luck. What an awesome Christmas present!

I think.... Make the fillet with wood flour, knowing that it will work, glass it in, and get back to building the boat. You are probably not going to get the strongest joint possible working in a garage, during the winter, with hand tools in a hobby environment....but you will get a joint that will probably outlast the boat. Spring will be here before you know it.

OR, if you're adept enough, install the hard drive from old computer "A" into new computer "B" as a second hard drive. That's what I've done on my last three computers. (Get 'em in trade, cuz I'm a sucker fer junk. )

A Cross-over cable works well for transferring files. No guarantee on 98SE programs working on XP. You will have to create a Network disk, but XP walks you thru this. If you've done it before, it's a good way to go. If not, be prepared with a large bottle of industrial strength analgesics. CD-rs may be cheaper..

At least this guy made his car from wood...