mrthethird

West Systems recommends 80 grit sandpaper to create a good mechanical bond. System Three recommends 50-60 grit. There will be little electrical bond, since the base resin is cured. So gouge the surface with 80 grit, fill with "filler of choice", then sand smooth with whichever grit you would like to finish with. Check the finish manufacturer's recommendations on prepping the surface.

Down to the resin, that's what I MEANT....GOSH!!!

It really needs to be sanded down to the fiberglass, then scuffed up, filled, sanded, and painted. If you just scuff and paint, your filler is only bonded to the paint, not the fiberglass.

I'd have to go with Barry and the rest on this one. The Porter Cable routers are far superior to the Skil product. While I am definately a budget-driven guy, I've had no good luck in the long term with anything from Skil, except their circular saw (which I've had for 7 years, banging around the back of my truck). The Bosch router is really worth looking into, but I believe the price is the same as the PC. The PC is a bit more solid, and will make a smoother, more accurate cut. Spend an extra hundred bucks now or later....that's what they'd tell me

BYYB site appears to be back up, in a limited manner, for now. Good on 'em.

Not that I consider myself an expert or anything.... To my knowledge, a couple of things happen that cause this to occur: 1) Epoxy cures very slowly after the initial "flash". It will cure to the touch, which we commonly call "cured", in a few hours, but in actuality will take several weeks to several months to cure completely. In this time, solvents are leaving the material, and some shrinkage occurs. This is normal; 2) The wood of your boat flexes more than the screws and nails that hold it together. The epoxy remains bonded at the surface, but flexes on the exterior. Since the wood is moving more than the surface of the heads of your screws, a ring will appear around the screw heads. This can also happen to a lesser degree around defects in the veneer of the wood, differences in species of joining woods, and, in my experience, wherever the heck else it wants to... What to do? A) Nothing, it adds character Sand the offending spots, bondo and repaint C) Sand down the boat to the epoxy, and reglass the whole darn boat. I would pick A or B if there is no sign of darker dicoloration from water around the offending marks or indentations. If there is dark discoloration, water has breached the fiberglass, and repair needs to be done. This is probably unlikely in the short time you have been using the boat, but worth checking. I, personally, have had this issue more with polyesters than epoxies, but my experience is somewhat limited. Get a couple more opinions than mine, but that is my 2 bits worth.

And how can you brag about hacking a boatbuilding site? I'd bet that even among hackers, that's a no-sack, ch()ckensh()t act.

Bashful? No reason to be bashful. I can't here anyone laughing at me from here.... 8) Sorry craigdaver1 :roll: :oops: I FIGURED IT OUT!!! Hold on tight, the logic sequences here may make you dizzy.... Not as serious as it seemed. I mistranscribed (is that a word, or a confusing obliteration of english?) 1 number on the stem tip, making it (some other dimension, say, "x") instead of 10 3/8". After building, I sanded a fair amount away to have the ends square.... So, The total length, at deck level, of the stem was 24". It should have been 28 5/16"ish. (4 5/16" of missing material + 2 1/2" [existing notch distance] = 6 13/16"... hmmm...) All other dimensions and angles checked out. I then measured the length from the transom (where the radius stringer is) to the stem notch is (or, rather, should be), and came up with 15' 7". Only about 1/2" off. I think I can make that work, without too much rework. Work, rework, repeat if necessary. Thanks for all your help on this. I'm sure it won't be the last. Might help if I had room to take better pics [/b]

Craig, Your drawing seems to make the stem longer than the drawing :shock: On my stem, I came back 21 1/2" inches from the front. Your drawing doesn't give that dimension. Your drawing then leaves 7 7/32". I have 2 1/2", the plans show 6 3/4". I guess I need to figure out where the missing material is supposed to go, and put it on somehow. Hopeful that I just need to add some to the front end. How I could cut six pieces of wood to shapes like that, and have them all fit exactly 4 1/4" short is mind boggling. It makes me want to believe there is something else to blame.... :?

To clarify, I hope... The notch for the deck is 3/8" in deep, extending into the stem about 2 1/2". The measurement from the back of the notch to the front of the stem is 21 1/2", as per the plans. However, the keel drawing calls for the notch to be 6 3/4" X 3/8", but still keeping 21 1/2" forward of the notch. I looked at my stem dimensions, and they appear correct per the building plans, but not to this drawing view. My stem is 24" deep, the drawing seems to want 28 1/4", but the building parts themselves are not that big.... :? Do I ignore the 21 1/2" dimension and keep going, as that would solve this issue, or... Build a new keel at this point before it causes more problems...

I thought I had followed the plans to the "T", but I may not have gotten that far through the alphabet... The forward bulkhead is not falling into place like I believe it should. The plans call the angle 93 deg, I seem to have 110 deg. All the measurements seem ok. The stem is notched 21 1/2" bac from the front, the nose panel is 53" long, and the 1 x 4 jointer is centered at 1 3/4". The plans show the joiner on the forward side of the bulkhead. As you can see by the picture, I have well exceeded the maximum allowable angle. Anybody got a clue?

And just when I was gonna apologize for saying adla "lucks" into everything... :roll: Seriously, though, sorry about the weekend with your dad. But it would appear things will turn out for the better....as usual 8) 8) 8) Thinkin' about changin' my boat's name from "Lazy Butte" to "Half-Fast". Whadda think?

I'd be happy just to get the pictures :pirate:

Definately understand the "bug". I've been building boats, hobby-wise, for only about 5 years, and have enough ideas and designs to keep me building way beyond my natural life span. A real cedar-strip canoe, another couple of kayaks, a pontoon boat or two...Funny thing is, I have no clue as to how design works.... :shock: On that note, as I get closer to finishing the "boat" part, I'm getting the willies thinking about the rigging. This being the first sailboat I've built, or will sail, for that matter. It would seem you other builders get the boat in the water, then spend another grundle of time re-working the rigging. Is it in that much need of enhancement, or are you guys like me, and can't leave well enough alone? What are the more common issues? And this steering issue...aren't there a bit too many knots in this set-up? Seems like it would be incredibly difficult to get the tension right. Has anyone tried rope clamps instead? And as far as questions go, don't worry, I gotta million of 'em.

Not discounting all the new threads of people building "other than" boats...I mean, if I had seen the Duck Trap pages first, who is to say I wouldn't be building a Christmas Wherry right now, but how many of you out there are building Weekenders, and how far along are you? No need to say how long you've been at it...

Ya know, I've used these clamps for years, now, and I don't remember where I first found out about them. :? But here's a link that shows something about them. http://www.clcboats.com/shoptips/shoptips_clamps.php/cart_id=938cedebef82e2c7ba4c6f7c4fbd2fea/ I just run a 4'-5' length down the table saw lengthwise, then cut off a grundle of 2" sections on the miter saw.

i got nuthin' :oops: But I do have all the panels cut, and if I get caught up at work, I'll be 3D on Saturday!

Cheese 'n rice...I mean, holy flippin' scrud! Hey, adla, next time you "fall" into something, see if there's a free weekender trailer in there somewhere. With all the modifications already made. Painted a nice, light, pearly beige color.....and a bag of cash with it in a matching bag..... :cry:

That is one sharp looking boat. I like the bright floor against the blue hull. Stands out nicely. Good job.

I think I need a few more clamps.... :wink:

That's it, I'm goin' t'bed. (One too many grape knee-hi's)

ALRIGHTY THEN, I'M GONNA DO IT!!!!! ...and the solar panel in the forward hatch for recharging the battery, and the tinted glass in the port holes, the custom flamin' paint job, and maybe even the flyin' jib up front! Whadya think about a mizzen-sprit?

Why couldn't I think of these questions sooner? I would like to plank the deck with 1/4" cedar strips. Should I cut the deck out of 3/8" ply (which I already have...), or should I scale back to 1/4" ply for the deck, then add the hardwood on top? Is the cedar going to weigh enough to matter? Am I overthinking this? Is that a slice of processed cheese under the saw? I want to be sure that the deck is strong enough to walk on, but I've heard that the weekender is a little top-heavy anyway. Any thoughts on this?

I have planned on making a round, hollow mast for this weekender. I am getting to the point in construction where some fore-planning may be needed. As you may know, the plans call for a solid, square mast. As I bring my boat to 3D, I will need to create the mast-box, and therein is the problem. Will my round mast fitting into a square mast-box prove to be an insurmountable problem? I envisioned making a round mast-step at the bottom, and cutting a round hole in the deck, making a round collar to keep the water out. Is this enough support for the mast, or am I asking for trouble here? Has anyone else tried this? I would appreciate any advice or comment.