mrthethird

I am getting closer and closer to the rigging end of this project, and little projects to keep me busy all next winter are showing up everywhere Has anyone seen plans, or can figure out how, to build a masthead fly (wind chicken)? I know they're not expensive, just one more little touch that would be cool to say I made myself. A quick search of the internet didn't turn anything up.

The important note is that I will be launching the boat with the standard rigging. Since the rigging seems to be somewhat inexpensive, I thought I would play around with it a bit, and see what happens. I had planned on all-or-nothing for the furled jib, just a way to get it out of the wind if I needed to. I had no intention of using it as a reefing system. Thanks for the great input and ideas. The topsail is on the list as well, but not for a while, yet. But it does look way cool....

I have been kicking around the idea of a double headsail arrangement, in lue of a single jib, on my Weekender. Not as a replacement rigging, but as a secondary, "experimental" rigging. The stay sail would hank to a forestay run from it's typical location on the mast, to the eyebolt for the clubfoot (which I would remove). The forward sail would be a 130-140 genoa on a furler. I know opinions will vary about whether or not this is an acceptable rigging, and those opinions are welcome, but not my questions. The questions are: About where and how do I connect the genoa stay to the mast? Do I need to increase the height of the mast to accommodate the arrangement? If so, how do I figure out how much? Is repositioning the forestay compromising the stability of the mast too much? Will the genoa furler be enough help in this regard? Will I need to modify the bowsprit? Any opinions are welcome.

Had a boatshed last weekend, got some real good help. Left to right: Randy Bicks, Phil Gowans, Darik Anderson, that's me on top, and Steve Downs. But here's how it all got done - The Secret Weapon - Adla Just a couple of pics fer teasin'. Should be ready to glass by next weekend.

OK Oyster, try these...

A couple more building pics. Note: rub rails are NOT a one-man operation, if you want it done in any kind of time...took most of the afternoon to get 'em on straight.

When you get around to the plans, let me know. I've got plans for a tennis ball cannon, propane powered, but it is just too massive to be any fun. Being more of a shade tree mechanic than an engineer, I leave that kind of stuff to the more creative people.... Your boat is looking real good. Keep up the good work.

Wow. I never expected this much information. You guys are awesome! 8) Here in Utah, some lakes are closed to internal combustion engines, so electric motors are common. However, the other lakes have no restrictions. When a storm comes up here, it comes up fast. I plan on having both an electric motor and a gas motor, 5-7 hp. The gas engine will be used more . Not too many currents in the lakes, but I have relatives in Seattle, may have to haul the boat up there sometime.. By all means!

Pardon my naivity, but if a boat is powered by anything other than paddles, I'm lost.... :oops: I have been tracking prices for the last few months, and I have noticed that bow-mounted electric motors can be had for a bit less money. I know I want/need a transom mount. So my question is, with the right ingenuity, can a bow-mount motor be transom mounted without unwanted repercussions?

Got a set of plans fer that cannon? :pirate:

No, it is very smooth and glossy. But the #10 glass bead I put down will be a little no-skiddish.... :wink: The #10 glass bead is quite large, so it won't non-skid knees as agressively as sand, but still small enough to get the job done. I believe the post I read about how to lay it on was from here, but I don't remember. There's lots I don't remember anymore.... :roll:

I know you guys and your opinions on paints.... The deck gets 4 oz. glass and epoxy, then a clearcoat of PPG Pitthane. The hull gets 6 oz glass and 3 coats of epoxy, pigmented pitthane, and a clear coat of pitthane. Pitthane is a hybrid of polyurethane used to coat aircraft. extremely durable and uv resistant, if not a little difficult to get to lay down smooth. I have used it on my kayaks, and love it.

Light beige/cream base w/ bright mahogany accents, bright cedar deck and seats. Maybe some flames.....

Stripped the deck with cedar. This boat's finally starting to look like a Weekender

I'm figurin' that if I start working frantically like I'm not ready for it, Spring will come faster, just to make me look bad...

I haven't been very good at keepin' y'all updated with my progress, so here it is all in one lump.... :shock:

Funny you should mention that, I have scouted out three boat dealers locally that have trailers just sittin' around in the yard. Now, time to polish up the ol' panhandlin'....err....horse tradin' skills...

Has anybody made the sailing version?

That's what I'm afraid of. It's gonna be a real drag (no pun, really) if my boat's done late spring and I can't get a trailer 'til next winter. I may have to drive for one farther than I wanted to.

I have been looking around locally for a trailer, and have not had much luck. The few that I have found either are too long, or cannot be modified easily (bunks and such). I know there are plans to build trailers on the web. Has anyone built there own from these plans, and would it be recommended? Price is a big factor. When I started this project, I had figured around $300 to $500 for the trailer.

Adla, you are a hack, I'm very proud of you smirk Here pretty quick, I hope I'm to the point where I'm having troubles with the trailer, cuz that'd mean my boat was done :wink: :thumbsup:

Just adding my opinion and limited experience Sometimes, if not most times, opinion has to be seperated from facts to get the truth. Sometimes it can't be done. I have worked, in the past, with at least three extremely skilled woodworkers. Almost everything I know about woodworking, I learned from these three individuals. If I asked them the best way to build a particular wood item, I would get three very different, but seemingly correct answers. If, being the pot-stirring kind of guy I am, I confronted each of them with each others viewpoint, opinion then takes over, possibly mixed with some ego :wink: , and each theory of building is summarily taken apart, ridiculed, and proven inferior. The "buffet" approach to learning, then, is best. I have been a bird's mouth spar making fool the last few weeks, and have some reservations with the application of a hollow wood spar to reduce weight, but lack of stiffness has not been a problem. I am a little concerned that the spars may not flex enough.... Questions arise, what kind of wood was used, the diameter and length of the mast, the thickness of the sections compared to the final diameter, what adhesive was used, what kind of sail load there was, etc. In my experiences, these are not necessarily politically correct questions when addressed to an instructor you wish to learn more from. Take his comments for what they are worth, do some more research. I know very little about sailing or masts, but the engineered strength of a vertical grain fir hollow spar, following the formulas given by Frank and others, is gigantic. I can't see how one could overflex the spar without severely overloading it. I would bet I could pry my son's car off jacks with the mast for my weekender (wouldn't try it on my own vehicle) Like speed limits, its just an opinion. Then again, I'm a land-locked, land lubbin' budget-restricted pleasure boater, not an old salt :wink: