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Brad

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Everything posted by Brad

  1. Ray, on this page http://tinyurl.com/2583pd Graham says: "You might find the spar tops interesting. The best strength to weight ratio we could find was thin wall birdsmouth wood with carbon braid on the outside. The mainmast top weighed 7# 3 ounces for 10' long and 3 1/4" dia. tapering to 2". We could find commercially made all carbon spars at just over 1# per foot."
  2. What's the advantage of a birdsmouth/carbon fiber upper mast section? Graham's finished weight was slightly over 0.7#/ft. The 2" and 2.5" O.D. 0.065" wall upper sections recommended for the CS20 weigh 0.47 and 0.59 #/ft. so it can't be weight.
  3. That's a lot of stitching. Over fourhundredfifty using 6" spacing.
  4. 1. The page titled "Hull Interior Construction Plan" shows the DWL 30 1/8" below the top of the bow and 19 1/2" below the top of the transom. I subtracted the transom from the bow and put the bow 10 5/8" higher above the floor than the transom. 2. I used the 2/3 wood flour and 1/3 cabosil mix Devlin recommends. The cabosil in the mix seems to make a smoother fillet than wood flour only.
  5. Not a web log but it's a big plywood boat. http://tinyurl.com/y82kmj http://tinyurl.com/y7npgw
  6. These work well and I'm guessing this is what PAR is talking about. Buffer http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=173 Abrasive disc http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs6667GSc7rrrrQ- You could probably get some heavy duty 60 grit discs, similar to those above, for your sander and do the job.
  7. Here's a link comparing the Telefles push pull vs cable pull pull. http://www.stewartfam.net/arlyn/steeringcable.html
  8. Click on this link http://www.watertribe.com/ChallengeViewer/default.aspx then go down the list to "Chief - Roo & F3 at Flamingo."
  9. Click on this link http://www.watertribe.com/ChallengeViewer/default.aspx then go down the list to "Chief - Roo & F3 at Flamingo."
  10. Raka http://www.raka.com/FiberglassCloth.html
  11. The Mesquite around here is more like brush than trees. It doesn't get very tall and the diameter of the limbs is about 4" or less. It's great for smoking meat if you like a strong smoke flavor.
  12. Howard, try this link. http://www.kirbypaint.com/products/color_chart.html
  13. This link may help. http://messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2869&highlight=lumber+yellow+pine
  14. It's nice to have some distance, 10 feet or more, at one end of the boat so you can step back while sighting along the seams checking for fair curves. Same goes for lofting panels. If you have a door at one end of the shop it's not a problem.
  15. Brad

    CS20 #80

    Thanks for the tips guys. I'll probably need all the help I can get. Jeff, did you put the forward bulkhead in before tightening the bow wires? At the bottom of the "HULL PANEL INSTRUCTIONS" sheet my plans say "Drill and wire tie the butterfly. Wire the bow firmly and the keel line loosely. Open the butterfly out, the bow is drawn in and the wings fly out to the sides." That's how I did mine and was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked. The 12" butt and tape joint attaching the sides to the bottom didn't seem to have much strain on it and I didn't need to tighten the bow wires after unfolding the panels. I do like your all thread bolt idea for closing the gap at the bottom of the forward bulkhead. I have about a half inch gap that I'm going to try to close with some more wire adjustments but if that doesn't work I may try the all thread.
  16. Brad

    CS20 #80

    Jeff, did you curse like a sailor and use a big hammer? Graham seems to have left that part out of the instructions.
  17. Brad

    CS20 #80

    I'll get a photo of the transom.
  18. Starting to resemble a boat.
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