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Omar Mir

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Omar Mir last won the day on July 17 2018

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  1. I was 28 when I built mine. I almost didn’t. I think a well produced video series on youtube with some good marketing would help I think. The only reason I realized this was even an option is because my father in law mentioned it, and explained how forgiving the process would be. I would also note the size, the Stonefly is a bit big given whats coming out from swift. A Swift Pack Canoe is 12 feet at 25lbs. Thats hard to beat, but should be feasible with SOF canoes. My Stonefly is 54 lbs (thats based on my decisions but I think 40lbs is avg no?). The 66 Canoe from Cape Falcon is like 20lbs. There is a wide market of people that would LOVE to build their own canoes here (can speak for Ontario, Canada). But there needs to be some designs that compete on weight since we have to portage them often. So in my opinion (on Canoes) i would suggest: 1. Show the limited number of tools needed - a table saw and jig saw with a small block plane (mine was $19 on amazon) is enough 2. Show the materials are pretty easy to get (they are here basically anywhere in Canada I think) 3. Produce a high quality video series like Cape Falcon 4. Produce a design that competes on space/weight 5. Really highlight how easy it actually is, because man I messed up a lot but I still love it, and take it on some pretty remote backcountry camping adventures. 6. The lack of epoxy and steam bending is pretty great! Some of this really only applies to back country campers but there are a LOT of us here. AND maybe you could agree to come up here early in spring and offer a class. I’m sure some of the lumber mills (i.e. Wood Source here in Ottawa) would love to host you since they have all the wood you would need and would be good space. Just some thoughts.
  2. I was 158 when I first paddled my Stonefly. Tracked well. I don’t think the 120 would be an issue
  3. Ooooo pretty! How does it paddle? How much did it end up weighing?
  4. A couple of mistakes I would try to avoid: Early in the build process I screwed up the frame holding pieces and made them all the same height losing a whole bunch of rocker. I was able to fix it but not entirely. Canoe rides like its on a rail, highly recommend trying to preserve the rocker. Where the gunnels meet the bow and stern, you have to cut the gunnels at a bias to meet the ply. I screwed this up royally. Do both sides at once. I might even put a dowel through the assembly next time to keep it well lined up and square. Lashing - I individually lashed each joint. Not a mistake but I doubt that was needed and the kayak builders seem to not do that. Would save so much time.... Wood size. You can use 3/4 or 5/8. Use 5/8th. 3/4 is easier but its unnecessary and adds a lot weight. Get a router. Seriously get a router. DO NOT use WRC for the seat if you use a webbed seat. Use a hardwood. It’s not fun falling though the seat. If you are good with a bandsaw use that instead of a jig saw to cut the plywood For the canoe bow and stern bronze strips use something that is easily moldable or use the stuff Jeff sells. Do not try to curve your own bronze. Its a bad idea. USE VERY THIN LAYERS OF PAINT. VERY VERY THIN. The floor boards will add a lot of weight. If possible use the two plys instead like Jeff or other folks here who use thin stock wood. You can always add a flooring rubber mat. Bronze attachments look cool but are heavy. Avoid if you want lightweight. I’m sure there is more but its been a bit since the build. Its a great little boat. My biggest mistake was the paint to be honest and the added weight. I have to portage the canoe a whole bunch and the extra 10-15 lbs could be avoided and that would have been great. I will be building another canoe either this year or next.
  5. Thanks! Also thank you for that page - that's excellent - I was considering an alternative by creating a cylinder and using a barbell foam pad to cushion as a quick solution but this would be a good winter project also I'm an idiot and have no spatial sense so it will take me a while to figure out what the drawing is exactly indicating.
  6. Finally got a chance to take the canoe out on a real backcountry camping expedition. Needed to create a removable yoke to portage (1KM) on my shoulders. Went superb. I do need a better shaped/contoured yoke, I'll do that this month so that my second trip in September is more comfortable as I will have pretty large hills to portage. I figured you folks might enjoy some pictures of the picturesque lake and the canoe (and fish). And yep the barrel contains all supplies for multiple days including tent etc/ Yoke is made with poplar (like the floorboards) and the hardware is a woodworking cam clamp, and 4in bolts/washers (galvanized steel). And yep I add a backrest seat before I go out to give some back support. Yoke pattern from here. Would not recommend the yoke though, a contoured/deep dish yoke is substantially better and will be my next build for this canoe. 360 shot of campsite: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xsoF9JWFoj4GoDGM8
  7. Thanks and thank you for answering all my questions! The mistakes were all mine and anything that works is thanks to you folks and Jeff.
  8. The 60L barrel in the back has supplies and tent and all that I need for a few days while I go into the back country i made a lot of mistakes on this build, and my next boat (the Tandem canoe) will be built so much better based on the lessons learned here. And then maybe the Castaway, or maybe I don't need three boats... Also caught my first fish in it last week.
  9. That's fair. Just needed to hear that! I promise to post pictures soon. Thanks so much for the advice. This forum is just wonderful. Already planning the castaway and with all the lessons learned the hard way (and there were many) I think it's going to go wonderfully .... he says tempting karma. I might even not have a million questions!
  10. So i've already done 3 coats as noted above, so I should really just wait eh? I assume its a bad idea to put on some Spar Urethane to seal the whole thing? Or any of the following: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.epoxyshield-anti-slip---clear-340g.1000785172.html (epoxy shield) https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.lacquer-clear-312g-aerosol.1000120299.html (lacquer)
  11. I essentially did the oil paint as you noted with 24 hours in between. I think I made the error of putting it on too thick. Far too thick. And now.the curing process is taking a much longer time. Do you think there is something I can use to seal the paint? Or should I let it sit (not sure how long it might take).
  12. So I did thin the first one (and actually the colour you see from the scrape is not the cloth colour BUT the colour of the first coat). Coat 1: 85% Paint and 15% Thinner - Dry time before next coat: 24hrs - SAND COLOUR (notice the scraped bit is all green and no sand). Coat 2: 100% Green Tremclad (Rustoleum brand). Dry time before next coat: 24 hours. Not thinned. Coat 3: 100% Green Tremclad. Drying now for 7 days. Not thinned.
  13. Still not great, I think I lathered on the paint too thick and between the humidity here and the rain it hasn't dried yet. This first boat has been a great learning experience - I might try building this same boat again if I ever get to try this on the water and like it (I love the look of the boat so much!). I'll give it another week outside to see if it cures. It seems to have cured more in the week but doesn't seem to be done. If it doesn't dry I'll see if I can scrape it off and try with a different water based paint and then use Minwax Water Based Helmsman Spar Urethane to seal it once dried. So I guess my question is: Should I give it another week because of weather/my own incompetence in using too much paint OR should I just scrape it off now and start with a new paint/Urethane? I really don't want to reskin right now if I've ruined the skin but if that's required also would like to know.
  14. Do you take it in if its going to rain? I can leave it out but Im gone for a week and its supposed to rain in between.
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