Blkskmr

Ok well figured out the problem but too late. Operator error. It is very important to note, and not easy to see in the photos, but the 90 degree angle of the big end of the side pieces is up. The 90 degree angle of the big end does not get glued to the U base. I hope that makes some sense. And if you have them upside down, the ends of the U base will extend out about a 1/4". The really sad part is I looked all the photos and blogs and thought I had the orientation correct. Please avoid the mistake. I had to cut the parts apart.. It will still work...just ugly, really ugly. Rgds R Johnson

I have question in reference to the U shaped base for the seat hatches for the CS17 mkiii. I have assembled the sides in the U according to the photos and posts. However, the two ends of the U protrude out bout 1/4". There are photos which show the front face of the hatch ring completely flush, ends of the U included. This make sense to me for installation. However there are a couple of photos which seem to show the ends of the U protruding. Which is correct? Please let me know. Regards Richard

Chick and Jay, I am nowhere near the hatch construction but am already thinking about it. When you have drawings or photos, please post them. I have seen photos of a CS 20 MKiii but cannot see exactly what was done. No rush I am a ways behind. Thank you R Johnson

Thank you...

Thank you for the link. I watched the video. Alan is using an outside mount bailer. Is there a reason for using the outside versus the inside? Regards R Johnson

Steve and Chick, Thank you both.. Water ballast and live bait well. That would be a unique combination. My wife and I are building CS17 mkiii to be named Avocet. We have just completed first fillets this weekend and hope to get the rest done next weekend. All in all going well. Hull seems symmetric and level. Not all my projects have gone so well. I have a kayak named Porto. But there is still time for me to personalize this project. Best Regards to you both. Richard Johnson Wayfarer 10873 Black Skimmer

Chick, I've been following your posts. At what point during construction will you make the cutouts for the bailers? I had a thought, most likely impractical. If you put one bailer in reverse, remove the flap, it will force fill the compartment when sailing. A vent would be needed. The other bailer could be for removing water. Just a random thought. I am not sure at the moment how I want to fill or empty the tank. I have had trouble with core rot on other boats around the bailer. Thank you

I had a thought last night. About a year ago I saw at the B&B sight a very elegant soft hatch cover using very expensive tracks and cars. Very very nice though. However if you used the new sail track and the slugs, one could make a very nice soft hatch cover. As with the other design it would need battens. It could be designed with a little overhang on the sides and zip on the interior, also on the sides. The slug would allow it to slide forward without blowing away. It would require a good cover maker to help with design. Does this idea have any merit or has it been tried in the past? Please let me know what you think?

Thank you. I will order when the time comes. Regards

Don, Good morning, this is Richard Johnson from Charlotte ( Wayfarer 10873), what are you building?

Thank you for the responses. I agree it is important to read the MSDS and to wear appropriate protective equipment. Regards to all. R Johnson

I did an informal test. I epoxied two 2 x 3/4" x 12" long boards at a 90 degree angle to two 1 x 6 x 12" planks. One joint was made with a cellulose fiber filler and the other was with colloidal silica. The purpose of the test was to determine relative strength of one versus the other. Would cellulose fibers make an acceptable replacement for colloidal silica? Most data suggest colloidal silica makes a stronger joint. The colloidal silica joint failed at 30.4 ft/lbs. The cellulosic fiber joint failed at 44 ft/lbs. ( I would like to post photos but can't figure out how to attach photos) Notes and caveats: 1) This is one data point so the results are almost meaningless.... but it was a fun test to do. 2) I tried to make the fillets on each equal, but I can see that the colloidal silica joint was not as broad 3) The colloidal silica joint failed at the fillet. 4) The cellulose fiber fillet failed at the wood. The wood failed. Summary: All data in the market place suggest colloidal silica is stronger than cellulose fibers and I agree. I was pleased to see that I could make a cellulose fiber fillet joint that would be stronger than the wood. That is what I wanted to know but I did the comparison just for fun. I feel comfortable using the cellulose fibers on my fillet joints on my boat. My reason for wanting to use the cellulose is due to the fact my wife and I both have asthma and she has had another serious life threatening illness. We do wear respirator like masks. My thought is if we can make joints that are stronger than the wood we are joining using a material that seems to have fewer potential adverse health affects, then we should. We will still wear our masks.

Quick Question: I was watching the CS15 vidoe and also the CS 17 MK III video. In the CS15 video the centerboard well is glued into place, whereas on the CS17 Mk III video the interior structure assembly is set into place with a notice at the end of the video that filleting and taping will follow. I can understand why but at the same time it seems like it would be very difficult to get good seal at the base of the centerboard and to work around the structure. If I need to wait for the next video, just let me know but I was curious. Thank you.

Please ignore my question. I found the info I need. CS17 MKIII will work. Thank you

CS17 mk iii VS CS20 mk iii: The photo above is very helpful. I plan to build CS17 next year, my wife thinks we should just go ahead and do the 20. It would be helpful to know where the additional 3 feet of length comes into play. What are the differences in cockpit length, and cabin length. Also it would be helpful to know the distance from bunk level to the inside of the cabin for each boat. Cockpit depth would be good too. Basically I'm looking for the human dimensions of the boat. I would appreciate any help.

Dear all, This is interesting. So how did the CS17 & 20 evolve into the MK II and then the MkIII with water ballast? What is the volume / weight of water for each boat and what is the anticipated effect? Thank you

Thank you both for your input and observations. I would be very interested to see the CS 20 MkIII when complete. It is hard to put the size of a boat in perspective to human size from photos. At some time as well I would like to sail one. What will be really interesting Doug is your thoughts on the feel of the CS 20 versus the CS 20 MKiii with water ballast. I am in no hurry at the moment. We just completed a Peeler Skiff and my wife is not quite ready for builder mode again. Building it was satisfying and the results were good. But it is what it is, a flat bottom boat. So before I invest another year of weekends I want to be sure I am making a sound decision. Once again, thank you

Hello to all. I have different questions about performance. My background is this. My wife and I have sailed Wayfarer dinghy, mostly racing, for 14 years. It is a good boat but when winds are 15 to 20 then the boat needs a lot of attention for wind and waves. We want a boat we can weekend cruise and take for comfortable day sails. We will be sailing mostly on Pamilco sound.( we live in Charlotte at moment) Winds in the 15 to 20 mph range is normal along with 3-4 foot waves. I am considering a Coresound 17 or 20 Mk iii. My questions are as follows. 1) In 15 to 20 knots of wind, how stable and or comfortable does the boat feel? Does it require on the second attention? Granted all boats must be sailed. 2) It was mentioned above that going to windward was wet, more important, how balanced and settled does the boat feel in 15 to 20 knots of wind. 3) Driving into waves, 3-4 feet, does the boat flex or oil can in any way? I could feel my first Wayfarer flex as if being curled up when it drove into waves. It was a fiberglass Mk III. Also it would oil can. Both were irritating and slow. 4) Sailing to windward is a matter of trim and balance. Downwind is always more interesting. A dinghy can feel light and unbalanced down wind. It can be unsettling and if the boat begins to death roll it can be a problem. There are ways to prevent this but it is still a somewhat nervous ride. That I want to avoid. How do the core sound boats feel off the wind? My wife and I intend to cruise and most likely alone. It is important for us to feel we have a boat that we can handle in the common conditions without feeling we are on edge constantly. I hope these questions make sense. I would very much like to sail on a CS boat. Unfortunately will miss the event at B&B in October for a Charity Regatta. I look forward to your responses. Kind Regards Richard Johnson