Blkskmr

Chick, Graham, Pete, and Paul, Thank you for the quick replies. For better the or worse the U.W.W. ( unidentified white wood) is installed. I think the worst that can happen is that it can get ugly fast as I run into stuff. I guess I could try to avoid that. As for the motor and mount, I have reviewed several times what Chick and Graham have done and admire it. It is a little late for that now. Also without a drawing to follow I would be lost. Oars are looking good. But I will need a motor at some time. I have reinforced the transom on the right side. I will have to use an external mount, which is ugly but functional. I was hoping one of you had used one that was OK. Finally, I went to drill holes in the rudder to day for the pintles. The specified RL 390 S &L are not wide enough for the rudder. I looked them up. They are for 1" wide rudder. It looks like they should have been the RL 390 SW & SL. Is this correct? Or am I missing something. Thank you

In reference to the bottom paint, there are times I will leave boat in the water for a week or so. I did that once with a skiff that I built and within a few days there was grunge growing and by the end of the week some baby animals with shells stuck to the boat. I am not sure what they were. Also it had blisters. So this time I am going belts and braces. Barrier coat and bottom paint. The choice of the ablative, I hate to admit, was on price. It was the least expensive. It was the lowest tech they had. I figured I really did not need something good. Also they pay the freight on their branded product. So for it has worked well. I will post photo of finished bottom tomorrow. The Orange cat is Anthony aka Tony aka Pinky. He liked the boat better when it was upright. There are epoxy cat prints in the cock pit. They will remain. By they way any thoughts on outboard motor mounts and motors? Do I need a long shaft or will a regular 2hp be OK. Regards and Thank you.

As for paints, this time I am trying the Total Boat from Jamestown Distributors. The bottom paint is the JD Select. Barrier coat is their 2 part epoxy Primer. I will use their topside paint Wet Edge for decks then I have two new unused cans of Interlux Brightsides for the sides of the hull. It is all an experiment. The holes in the bow are for the anchor locker. Mine are probably larger than required. They look more like nostrils. They are at the low point of locker and should drain well.. I need to get some info on where to get stainless protective strips. Regards

Thank you both. The bottom paint calls for 80 grit prep. I have plenty of 120. Will give that a try. Thank you for suggestion. I have had a two week blitz on the boat and am kind of worn out. So, the sanding will be less than aggressive. The rub rail is, I hate to admit it, just 1 x 2 from Lowes, scarfed together. This is a totally ignorant statement on my part, but it was whitish wood with minimal knots, fairly straight. I figure as long as it bends OK, absorbs the epoxy OK, once encapsulated, it will be impermeable. I know I should pay more attention to these details. I expect there will be repercussions later. Mine will be the test boat for less than optimal decision making. I put a quarter round on the corners. It is pretty beefy but we tend to be less than gentle with docks. It made a nice hand hold when flipping the boat. Best Regards

Barrier coat is on. Will be sanded with 80 grit and bottom painted.

Boat is glassed and prepped for barrier coat

Despite all the warnings and instructions I did not get centerboard well straight. Centerboard goes in, up and down fine. So no need to crank up the chain saw. Should be interesting to see what effect that has. We used a silicone wine stopper for our bumper

Post flipped. It took 4 of us with an assist from lifting points in ceiling to flip. We will have 6 to 7 for the re-flip

Prepping for the flip

What I struggle with the most is that I know what I want accomplish with a specific task and what I want it to look like. The end result seems to be close, but not quite there. This I expect is due to a lack of aptitude, good technique, or patience. But despite the misses it looks remarkably like a boat. It has the requisite elements. As long as no specific part is studied to long, at closer than 10 feet, it looks OK. I have a kayak named Porto that goes left. My biggest concern is that all the misses will add up to a boat that tracks like a blood hound on a hot scent. Will post photos later.

Sometimes better is the enemy of good. Please keep us posted. But I am OK with this data.

Wider board option 03 24 16.pdfGood morning, I had an idea, probably not practical, but seems to meet the idea of increased cross section for the board. I am not a fan of cutting into the centerboard well, but removing the top of the well from behind bh 4 to to its end would be less invasive. I prefer an open centerboard well, but it could be re-closed. The board would maintain present length. The chord at top could be lengthened as required and maintained to as low as possible on the board. The one draw back is the tip must still be tapered to allow the board to swing down. I expect there are any number of draw backs to this idea that will render it useless, but it is a modification that as an amateur I would feel comfortable attempting. The work would take place above the floor boards. The good thing about bad ideas is that they are catalyst for better ideas. ( Please see attachment) Thank you.

Ok... sounds like the best path would be to continue with present build / design. It would be nice if in six months to a year there would be a re-designed optimized board we could purchase for this first group of boats that would not require modifying the trunk, for those of us who don't want to cut into the boat. I am not looking for perfect, just better. Graham, thank you for giving us the heads up and working so quickly to try and come up with solution. When I spoke to you Monday morning I was not aware this was brewing. Best Regards to all. I flip the boat tomorrow.

Chick, Slugs are attracted to beer. I am attracted to beer. At least we would have something in common. I guess I could give the boat a brown leopard color scheme, put a couple of horns on the bow and figure out how to leave a watery slime trail, vegetable oil.. organic. It would be novel, but hardly the stuff of legends. We could get together and have a "Slug Fest" Rgds

Chick et all, I agree with you. It would be good to have a solution for us non-racers. I have been thinking of this statement you made in a prior post, " The centerboard just doesn't have enough area to counter the sail area and reduce leeway." This makes me wonder what the sail area would have to be reduced to in order to be the functional equivalent of the present rudder and centerboard. I would be comfortable with that. The boat only weighs 600lbs at worst, so it won't take much force to drive it. We shall see. Regards

Graham, For those of us not inclined to modify the centerboard, are there other adjustments we can make to improve pointing ability? 1) Would moving the mizzen mast aft a few inches help? 2) Would reducing the area of the main while maintaining area of the mizzen help? My thought is to move center of effort slightly aft and reduce area of main to reduce tendency to heal to keep boat flat and therefore maintain lateral resistance. If I can avoid cutting the boat up, I would like to. I would also like to point. Thank you

On second thought... I will bring Porto my Kayak

Chick, I live in Charlotte. We will be moving east later this year. So SC is no problem for now. Avocet will not be ready and we are moving the Wayfarer ( Blkskmr) east in April. I think I will make it a day trip on Saturday making the assumption the house does not sell. I have kept up with all the house projects so I have earned some political capital I can spend on April 30th. I have seen all the posted photos and am very interested in what everyone has done. I have determined that most of you are making art whereas I am just making a boat. I look forward to meeting everyone on the 30th. Kindest Regards

Chick et all, I would like to attend. It will be short as I am struggling between getting boat mobile and selling my house and beloved garage. But I think a few hours of looking and Q&A will be valuable. Is a date set or did I miss it. Best Regards

Pete, The observation of the slope of the seat and cockpit sole seems consistent with what I am seeing. I will check the berths. If they are level then I am Ok in that respect. Thank you

Peter, Thank you. I will check in with Graham when he returns.

Pete, et all, Thank you for the input. My floor is level. The cradle is level, and the boat is level. I am building a kit. I do not have a detailed drawing. But the sketch I do have seems to show the water line intersecting with the corner of the transom. I used this as my reference height. The photos explain what I did. Where the hull breaks toward the bow there is an optical illusion that makes the line look as if it drops. It does not drop. Once the stand was built it took me about 20 minutes to do one line. If the crowd seems to think this is correct then I will buy a cheep pizza wheel and indent the line into the hull. I thought if this afterwards. The boat boat is level side to side, but resting in the cradle, with the level on the seats in the cockpit, the bow is slightly higher. The bubble on the level is perhaps split by the forward line on the level. Do I need to shim the transom so the seats in the cockpit are level, or is it OK to work with the boat resting in the cradle( as intended) with the bow up slightly? I look forward to the feed-back. Regards

Pete M. That makes sense to me. I don't have the exact measurements for the water line but can mock up the stand you suggested. Will do so and reply with photos. Once again. Thank you all.

Thank you all for the quick response. First step is to roll the boat and get it glassed. The water line is one of those concerns I would like to resolve so I can stop thinking about it at night. Once again. Thank you

Good morning. I need to ask for some assistance on two items. 1) I am reaching the point of rolling the boat to glass the bottom. I have seen some elegant garage gantry work, but don't think I can go that route. Please tell me what you have done that has worked. 2) Water line: How did you decide where to place it, and what method did you use. I don't want it to look like a N.C. rural road divider line. Best Regard and thank you in advance for any help you can provide