Charlie Jones

yep- you can do it quite easily. You have to set up the cabin bulkhead to the top, so the curve is at the ply edge. Then the forward bulkhead is set into one of the cutout places that go under the cockpit.

hey Dingo- seems I remember a story about cooking something in her kitchen???? Wasn't that a certain Aussie?

Ah- an auger bit for a brace. I missed that part. Yes they can be a bit hard to find these days. Glad your dad had what you needed. I have a set of auger bits that run from an extremely rare 3/16 up to 1 inch, plus several expansion bits, and a couple of extensions. I can bore up to 3 feet deep as long as the diameter is larger than the end of the extension. The brace may be one of the most powerful screw drivers you can find also. Some times the hand powered stuff is way quicker and cleaner than power stuff, sometimes not. I tend to go to the older hand tools first though, even in my daily work in the shop. (EXCEPT for sanding- thank goodness for power sanders ) Matter of fact, that's what I used to bore the holes for the all thread in the gaff jaws I built.

Fintan- Am I missing something here? a 5/16 bit is just over 1/4- not very large at all. Here one would cost a couple of bucks at the most. Why do you say it's a costly bit?

There are boats, built using epoxy, that are currently and have been in the water full time for over 20 years or more, Epoxy may not be totally water proof, but it's the next thing to it. The water and fuel tanks I built and put into a trimaran in the very early 80s are STILL in daily use. I certainly wouldn't worry over much about the longevity of wood/epoxy.

Actually, according to Fine Woodworking, the bandsaw is second only to the radial arm saw in injuries in the shop, ahead of the table saw or anything else. I suspect people get complacent around bandsaws, while staying afraid of the table saw. Since I make my living in a woodshop every day, I stay, while not afraid, highly respectful of them all. I am very fond of my fingers!!

I can tell you this much. I built a 35 foot trimaran, launched 1981. Cold molded cedar, plywood decks, WEST system throughout. I lived aboard and cruised on that boat for three years then sold it. It's been in Galveston Texas ever since, always in the water, and always exposed to our south Texas heat and humidity. That boat has had ZERO ( that's nada, zip, zilch) problems with anything going wrong with the wooden structure. It keeps passing insurance surveys with flying colors. I would not hesitate to go cruising ANYWHERE on that boat today. Along with the boat, I built an 8 foot pram dinghy, 1/4 fir ply, WEST system. As far as I know, THAT boat is still being used. Both boats are over 20 years old now. Several of the original Gougeon boats that Jan built are still going and some of them are close to THIRTY years old! And I'm talking boats that get raced. Reckon that sorta answers your question?

Definitely just lead the negative back to the battery. It ISN'T a ground in a 12 volt system. It's the return to the source of a closed electrical system. Techanically, a 12 volt system does not have a "Ground" like an ac system does. On every boat I have ever owned, the 12 volt system "floated" independent of the physical structure of the vessel. I firmly believe that "grounding" or bonding the system only contributes to more electrolysis. On my current boat (21 foot sloop) I have the battery forward, the circuit switch mounted very close to the battery (so I can shut it off at the battery). The leads run from there about 8 feet aft to the bus bars that feed the distribution system. (switch panel for the positive side, and the return bus bar where all the returns are connected. I don't remember the guage of those leads, and it's too messy to go out and look, but they are pretty heavy. I connect my battery charger to those bus bars when I am charging the battery. We have a single group 27 battery and can go at least 5 or 6 days aboard on a single charge. I run interior lights, running lights (when needed), a depth sounder (when needed) and a VHF . My anchor light is a kerosene lantern, and our stereo has it's own batteries.

Howdy Oyster- I kinda figured that was you from the "other place" Didn't want to say anything though. I suppose the gulf coast is way too far south for Shane to have any chance of making it down here. Too bad- we could do a crab boil. Have a good'n anyway Dingo, from your buddy down Texas way, on Matagorda Bay

Luckettg- we live down here because A) both of us are sailors. My wife is rated #2 in Dolphin sailboats, which is a single hander a little larger than a sunfish. Lateen rig, but 10 more sq feet of sail. We live about five blocks from the launch ramp and the bay. And Because neither of us cares for cold AT ALL. The last day or so has been rough with the cold that hammered Texas and the Gulf coast. Our houses aren't built, nor do we have the heating capacity, to be comfortable in really cold weather. We just survive it Ed- I really have to agree. In political discussions, we ask people we don't already know if they are registered and did they vote. If the answers are no, we refuse to discuss politics with them. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Why would you need a "barrier coat" over epoxy? Both enamels and 2 pot polys will work very nicely on well sanded epoxy. The Gougeons specifically mention that you do not need a primer on well cured, well sanded epoxy. I spray 2 pot polys on boats I build, but for a home builder I don't recommend that. However, the Interlux Interthane which is formulated for "roll and tip" will give you a very good finish that has all the durability of sprayed 2 pot finishes, without the problems of airborne isocyanates. The roll on's don't present near the health risks that sprays do. However, Do wear gloves while mixing and Do work clean. The reducers aren't very nice even with this version of LPU, but you should get a very nice finish. Also not a thing wrong with Pettit's Easypoxy, rolled on. Personally, after doing 4 boats with Brightsides, I'm not all that impressed with it's durability or coverage. Seems to really be easy to mar and hard to get an even coating unless you spray it.

Gordy- I don't think so. In the last presidential election only 50% of the registered voters actually showed up to vote. I really believe the ones who watch this drivel are in the OTHER half- the ones who couldn't be bothered. Of course, where I live, way out here by Matagorda Bay, we only get ABC and there IS no cable connection. So I really miss a lot of TV --NOT!!.

AMAZING!! Some one else with marbles and a slingshot to keep the cats away from the bird feeder My wife laughed at me at first. The cats don't- I'm pretty good with it and have thumped a couple in the head several times. Nowadays they pretty well stay clear. The bird is beautiful by the way.

if that's what I think it is, it's called a Hyfield lever. Opens up to slacken, then snaps closed to tension. There should be some sort of locking mechanism to keep it closed. Can't figure why all that is needed, rather than just tensioning the jib halyard and putting a shackle into the eyebolt, then slacking the jib halyard. Looks very complex to me. And I really prefer things to be as simple as possible in rigging. Why not put the lever right on the end of the wire and do away with the turnbuckle even? And why do you need to change the shroud turnbuckles to raise and lower the mast? The guy I built the Weekender for never changes them and I never do on my larger trailerable sloop. What's the reason?

This isn't plans- just an article about building the boat. Has a few drawings which could probably be used, but that's all. I'll see if I can find some pictures at least, but it's gonna take a while.

Man named Travis, who reads this board, walked into my woodshop today carrying a Boating Mag from 1970. December 1970 to be exact. Said magazine contains the article on building Caliban That first sparked my interest. Soon as I am able I'm gonna copy the article and let you see it. I think I built Caliban about 1973.

So dummies that walk into the shop will have something to ask about But the real reason- Cause after you build one, ya just gotta do it again!! And there isn't a much better feeling than having someone say - "hey nice boat. Where'd you get it?" and you can say (quietly of course) - "I built it"

Gas prices from a trip yesterday- Port Lavaca Texas- 1.59 Victoria Texas- 1.59 Austin Texas (the state capitol) 1.52 Diesel fuel- 1. 59 - 1.65 Just filled my propane tank last week- 100 gallons for $155 I drive 38 miles each way to work Fortunately my S-10 gets about 25 - 26 mph

For any boat interior, you can't beat a good acrylic latex enamel. I've been using acrylic latex inside boats for years now, both on fiberglass and on wood. Easy to apply, easy to clean up after, durable, quick drying and looks great. Personally I use Sherwin -Williams Incredi-Coat, but all manufactures have something like it. Just pay attention to the prep instructions on the can- you'll be happy with it.

Aren't they hilarious to watch fishing? They look like something that got shot down and crashed. Always amazed they don't break their necks:) You know the white ones don't dive from the air to feed? They swim around and dive from the surface.

lol- you should have seen my wife when she saw a copy of "Case for the Cruising Trimaran" by Jim Brown for $250. She picked our copy up off the floor and slid it back into the bookcase:) Shame on Caliban. I have a scale model packed away at our farm up in east Texas. Maybe I can get it sometime and shoot a pic. Wasn't that article done in a Rudder mag? I had fun with the boat. Used a jib off a San Juan 21 for a sail. Eventually gave the boat to a boy's camp in Florida- they used it as a row boat. Somewhere around I have pictures of the boat- if they aren't with my ex-wife:(

any of those books have "Caliban" in them? That was one of the first, if not THE first design from them.

one additional point- if you have a 7 1/2 inch saw, mount a smaller blade, like a 6 1/2 - it will go around the curve easier. Mine happens to be an old Porter cable 6 1/2 incher which does a great job. One more small tip (if you aren't where it's a snow covered ) Throw the ply out onto the grass when cutting. You can set the draw on the blade to just go through and the ply is totally supported- you can sit on it and cut, The grass won't even have a mark where you cut. Just don't let the blade be deep enough to hit dirt!!