Charlie Jones

The loading on sails and rigging can also very much depend on the boat type. For instance, a multihull has far higher loadings on rigging from the wind than a monohull does, since it does not heel to the wind- the boat is much "stiffer". That's why they carry so much heavier wire size for size than a mono hull boat does. Conversely a light, round bilged monohull with a fin might heel away from the wind far more readily, giving far less loading on the sails and rig. So there are many many things that can affect the answer- as is often said on the Trailer Sailor board when questions of this nature come up- It depends

I don't think WEST is that superior, no. I've used WEST since 1976. Some times it pops right out of a container, sometimes you aren't getting it out. MAS is exactly the same- sometimes it comes right out, sometimes it would take dyamite:) I wouldn't worry about it over much and just toss the ones it doesn't come out of. By the way- you should have seem me filleting yesterday, with temps in the shop sitting dead on 100 degrees :?

absent hoops, the "back and forth" technique is the time honored way of bending on a sail. The old timers did it that way it seems, probably for the reason that it worked well. By the way, in "Hand Reef and Steer" Cunliffe recommends a simple spiral lacing on the gaff and boom, for the reason that it "is self adjusting so each eye takes an equal portion of the load". He also says that it has a disadvantage in that it's prone to chafe. The final recommendation is for "robands" which are individual ties at each lacing eye on boom and gaff. Your choice I suppose Whatever you do, just do it and get the thing sailing

the reason for not using mat with epoxy is that the binders in mat are formulated to dissolve in styrene, which is one of the solvents in polyester resin. Epoxy resins do not have styrene so the binders don't dissolve, making the mat extremely difficult to properly wet out. There are mats available that can be used with epoxies, but they aren't commonly found. Therefor I'd use cloth. The epoxy sounds great though, and 50 gallons will build MANY boats .

Yeah Frank- the epoxy is strong enough. The bolts have a nut on the bottom way down in the hole too. But the adhesion would be enough. We bored the holes so the pull would be at an angle to both bolts- in other words, the fitting is at an apex. so it isn't a straight pull. Remember too, the bolts are IN ADDITION to the original cross bolts, which were just held by resin, and lasted some 25 years. In fact, epoxy resin set bolts are used in some custom catamarans (Toronados, and one of the Worrell custom designs to name two) to hold the cross arm bolts. They set a bolt, head down, into an over sized hole and fill with a thickened epoxy. After cure, then lay the cross arms on and bolt it up. Also, the Gougeons have used the technigue to hold ballast keels on. An over sized hole is bored in the floors, the keel is set under with the bolts coming through the holes, then the thickened epoxy is administered to the holes. No nuts are used at all, and they've done 10,000 pound keels that way -LOTS bolts of course By the way- I've been assisting in getting the keel in and out, but I'm just advising and consulting on the repair- The guy in the sailboat shop did the actual work on this one, so I can't take credit. I just thought you guys would find the work interesting

Then the fittings were glassed over. This shows the first layer of glass in place. The remainder of the glass is just cosmetic to smooth out the end. The keel will be load tested next week by lifting it by this fitting- if it passes that test, it goes back into the boat on Tuesday Sorry about the streaks- I can't seem to make them go away with this picture [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

After rebuilding the end with epoxy thickened with cab-o-sil, there were 10 strands of 36 oz glass laid fore and aft along and through the fitting. I didn't have the camera with me that day so here's what the strands looked like and how they were run. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

The eyebolts were spaced to accept the original fitting, which had been held in with just a pair of bolts running across the keel and set in resin. Here's the original fitting set on the eyebolts. Those are the original cross bolts by the way- those were all that held the 400 pounds of keel up [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

The sailboat shop had a San Juan 21 come in on which the keel had been hoisted too many times with a bit too much enthusiasm Seems to be a point that occurs with a bit of frequency on these boats cause lots of them get broken cables. On this boat the entire top of the keel had been ripped off. Took about two hours with a die grinder to first FIND, then excavate the keel bolt. It was encased in about 1 1/2 inches of pure resin, for what ever reason. Once the bolt was out, we hoisted the front of the boat with a chain fall from an over head beam and slid the keel out. That took about 15 minutes Here's the repairs in steps- After knocking loose all the broken resin lumps, we bored down into the remaining keel and set a pair of eyebolts with nuts on the lower end, in epoxy resin thickened with cab-o-sil. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

you can use the polyester to apply glass with. You cannot use the polyester as an adhesive like you can with epoxy. I've had boats glassed with polyester that held up fine. (Before epoxy) One in particular lived on a trailer outside and I fished that boat for about 8 years before I sold it- the next owner used it another 5 or 6, with no problems. Just make sure the wood is well wet out with the resin before you start glassing. Dry glassing doesn't work as well with poly. Having said that, epoxy is far and away a better resin to use, since you can use it as an adhesive, as a filler (with various additives), as a coating and to apply the glass. In the long run, the cost of the epoxy, no matter which you use, doesn't add that much to the cost of a boat, even when building a larger one. For example, I'm to this point on a 22 foot cat ketch , with all interior seams filled and taped and the entire interior coated and I've used less than 4 gallons of epoxy so far. By the way, I worked in the Sears store in Pasadena years ago as a summer/pre Christmas employee. That would have been in 1957 :shock: Place sure has changed since then. Now I live on Matagorda Bay, just out from Port Lavaca. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Phil- I understand ya. And it really is academic just exactly how strong the winds were. I don't wanna go through another one Did find out today just how gusts are deteremined as opposed to sustained wind speed. Sustained wind must maintain the speed for 1 minute or longer. Less than that, it's considered a gust.

Phil- The damage around here is inconsistant with just a cat 1 storm. The roof damage is so widespread and the awnings over gas stations were particularly hard hit - even in Victoria, which as I said, is 40 miles inland from the gulf. I've seen 10 or more of them just totally destroyed. Regional Steel, which is just outside the loop in Victoria had the rear of their large steel storage building ripped completely away, steel beams and all :? This was no small cheaply constructed building. The Hurricane center folks describe probably damage from cat 1 and cat 2 storms. What we have is consistant with their discussion of damage from a minimal cat 2. My house has been through 75 mph winds before, and never shook like it did during Claudette. We usually don't even wake up if we get frontal system storms of 50 to 60 mph during the night- the house is that quiet. Here's another pic of some damage. These are grain storage tanks along Hwy 87 on the Victoria side of Port Lavaca. I don't think the storm was way up into cat 2 levels, but I sure think it was stronger than the 80s they are trying to tell us now. I seriously believe we experienced winds at my house in the mid 90s, which is entry level cat 2. Of course, it would be real hard to tell the difference between 94 mph and 97 mph I know for sure that if we get another one, I intend to board up and be elsewhere when it gets here!! [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Mike- we did fine at our place. Lost two shingles from the roof and had to put a new roof on the storage/shop building here at the house. Boat shop had no problems, but it's in Victoria, 40 miles away. Magnolia beach, Indianola and Alamo beach took a pretty good beating. I doubt there are 10% of the structiures here that don't have at least a few shingles missing at the least. Some folks fared much worse. Here's a shot from the area. Both of these boats were tied to screw anchors on each side and the trailer in the back ground was anchored also- Claudette didn't seem to notice. By the way- the trailer started out on THIS side of that road The hurricane center folks are still claiming it was a cat 1, but their own damage reports say minimal Cat 2. Plus, we rode it out here at the house also- and I say it was a minimal cat 2, I don't give a damn what they claim. The damage is consistent with that. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Wow- that is an old one- An old Mark 1. And with a 3 digit sail number too. I had a Mark 1, back in 1974. Fun boat to sail. Not a lot of interior room, but a good sailer. Ther's a Mark 2 in the shop right now having a keel job done on it. We dropped the keel out on Saturday. Once we got the keelbolt covering ground away and the bolt out, took 15 minutes to lift the boat a drop out the keel. Gonna be a bit tougher getting it BACK up there though

Hey Phil- come on down to my shop in Victoria. We've been in the mid 90s with temps AND humidity for weeks now. Laura and I were in Austin on Sunday afternoon and commented on how much cooler it felt there with the lower humidity. At least the air conditioners are running again at the house

lol- Both Sharpies- the Princess and my CLC plus my Minipaw dinghy, were tucked into my shop in Victoria during the storm, along with all the small boats off the sail boat lot. I share a building with a sailboat dealer so we both had boats inside. But the winds were down to, oh, say 80 mph by the time the storm got there. That's 50 miles inland. This sucker actually gained strength after coming ashore, as it was coming up Matagorda Bay.

Bananas not allowed on our fishing boat either, per my wife. They are rumored to bring bad luck fishing, she heard the rumor and banned 'em

Thanks Phil. The roof on the storage building was slated for renewal anyway, and we already have the new metal. We don't have enough damage to file a claim insurance wise. The house is an A-Frame, which we built our selves, totally and completely. I'll go around and retighten the bolts on the A's, but it's in great shape. The only damage at all is two shingles gone at one edge and I have the shingles to replace them, so that's a 30 minute job. As far as the trees, they are Chinese tallows- pretty damned resilient trees anyway, at least when you are TRYING to get rid of them, so we'll just keep 'em well watered and see what happens.

Power came back at 2200 last night. We're back!!! Gonna take a few days to catch up and get pics and things. But by and large, we're doing and have been doing fine. Thank you Graham for posting for me. Hope this Danny leaves you guys alone. The Alcoa plant just across the bay logged winds in the 110 mph range, so this was NOT a minimal Cat 1 storm. Ah well No damage to any of our property from Claudette except that we need to renew the roof on our storage building, which already was a job in waiting.. Our county and several others surrounding ours have been declared a disaster area- lots of damage. I've seen corn fields that had been ready to harvest that were totally flattened and the stalks stripped of every thing but the stalk. And these were 50 miles inland :cry: Two of the trees in my front yard have NO leaves left on them.

That's the one I built One of the other principals in the company decided to sail the boat for himself actually, but if someone really wanted it, he'd sell. I kept the Sharpie that was built for the same show and we sail it as often as possible. If folks on this board would like to see pics of the B and B Princess I'm building, I'd be happy to post them here also. We just got electricity back at 2200 this evening. House, boats ,shop etc all fine after going directly through the eye of Claudette. The plants directly across the bay from my house registered winds around 110 mph during this "minimal" class 1 storm. HAH!! I sure don't want to ride out a cat 2 or better, I tell you for sure. LOTS of damage around Port Lavaca and surrounding areas. Only two deaths fortunately and both of them were due to flying debris. Pays to keep your head down!!

Posting from the Texas coast, on Matagorda Bay, 9 miles up bay from Port OConner, where Claudette is coming ashore Winds currently 35-40, gusting 45. Off shore bouys show 50 gusdting 60. Eyewall currently about 30 miles due east of our house, moving due west Raining hard, otherwise ok. posting quick in between power blips

Man - You do nice work. That is a beautiful glue up and glassing job. Couldn't have done a bit better myself.

Ken- all the yellow foam rollers I get from my distributor are 7 inch. They are the same thing you get from WEST if you order through them. I used to find 9 inch ones too, but haven't gotten any in a long while. You can do the same thing though- just cut one of them into 1 inch rings, then each ring into three pieces. Ya get 18 brushes that way, from one roller- not bad huh?

Thought maybe you folks would be interested in this. I almost never use a full size foam roller in the shop. I always cut them into either a 3 inch and a 4 inch piece, or two 3 inchers. When cutting a 7 inch roller cover into 3 inch parts, you are left with a 1 inch ring. I use those rings to make foam brushes to spread glue, or epoxy on small jobs. Of course, you can cut them wider if you need to, but the ones I use are just about right for glueing stringers, etc. The picture shows a well used notched stick with a chunk of roller in it, a freshly cut one and several pieces of roller. It should be self explanatory. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Thought maybe you folks would be interested in this. I almost never use a full size foam roller in the shop. I always cut them into either a 3 inch and a 4 inch piece, or two 3 inchers. When cutting a 7 inch roller cover into 3 inch parts, you are left with a 1 inch ring. I use those rings to make foam brushes to spread glue, or epoxy on small jobs. Of course, you can cut them wider if you need to, but the ones I use are just about right for glueing stringers, etc. The picture shows a well used notched stick with a chunk of roller in it, a freshly cut one and several pieces of roller. It should be self explanatory. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]