Charlie Jones

I built a 35 foot trimaran using WEST Sys (5-1 ratio) and two different kinds of pumps- no problems at all. I've also measured it using a STRAIGHT sided container and a stick.Since then I've used MAS, RAKA and the epoxy from Graham, all using pumps. All 2-1 and sometime again, measured with a stick.Had a friend who had a serious problem with SYS 3, but we think it was bad epoxy- of course, that would NEVER be admitted, but it simply would not cure-even measured using a scale.The ONLY reason I stopped using WEST is cost. Others, particularly the 2-1 from B and B, are just so much less costly that it's a no brainer, UNLESS a customer specified WEST. Then I'd use it of course.A note- be very careful of heat - exothermic reactions- I have a friend who lost a boat that way- it reacted in a contaner, caught a roll of paper towels on fire and burned the boat to the trailer- total loss

Thanks Dave.. Someone posted the link to that on the trailer sailor board, but I couldn't see it. Very nice.

Thanks-it just ignores me when I try to do a pic

The MiniPaw is finished, and was splashed yesterday.Write up found here-http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/trailersailor/index.cgi/read/867671

Mini Paw is finished. Here's the link to pics, And Hirilonde I decided to not non skid the seats. http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/trailersailor/index.cgi/read/867502

All painted outside. Last coat of paint today, then nonskid Still just ignores anything I try to post a picture, so again, here's a link to a TSBB post- http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/trailersailor/index.cgi/read/866807

I was gonna say that too. Push the wire down into the corner with a screw driver blade. Then you can use a small fillet.

Nor do I use the tacking. Waste of time. Get it aligned, lay in the fillets, while still wet, lay in tape. Wires are very easy to pull afterwards, and several methods have been talked about on here.

Grin- there is that!

Thanks.I've had Interdeck on my cockpit seats on both bigger boats, with no problems. It just doesn't seem to be that aggressive even on bare legs, yet gives very good non skid characteristics.This is my second Mini. The mods added minimal weight (2 4mm bulkheads and about a foot of extra bow seat), and give me two dry places to stow stuff. Graham had no problems with them. I do make it a practice to run things like that by him before I do them-grin.

Back on the forums as Charlie Jones. Tehani name is gone. Back in Jan I started building a new MiniPaw ( my second). Had a long hiatus due to a couple boat deliveries, and some work on other peoples boats, but-- Yesterday I got it to the "paint the first coat" stage. I made a few small mods (ok'd by Graham) to give me some dry storage along with floatation tanks. You can see the openings for the deck plates in the bow and under the stern seat Picture as of yesterday. Hoping to float it within the next week. Edited- Well, I'm apparently doing something wrong but it will not upload a pic for me, so here's a link to a post on TSBB with the pics- http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/trailersailor/index.cgi/read/866359

Makes a real good case for water tight carry cases doesn't it? Dinks are subject to doing that sometimes.

To add to Travis's post- that dead wood came from a house being torn down that was 105 yrs old. We counted 62 rings across the 4 inch width of the timber and made a ring of slices, showing that it came from about 8 inches from the center . That would make the tree somewhere in the 200 year old category . I think the tree was probably alive when Washington was President.

I built a P22 for a guy here. He's 75, and trailers it all over the country. Names Travis.. I'll ell him about this thread so he can respond. he's had the boat since 2004.

Storer did an excellent presentation on balanced lugs at Sail Oklahoma earlier this year. They were video taping and I expect the vid is available from Mike Monies. I don't have his contact info, but I think Travis does.

Ross also has an interesting article on lug rigs on Duckworks at the moment- http://www.duckworksmagazine.com

I suspect it was due to the fact that radial arm saw accidents tend to be way more serious than other saws- like half a hand chopped off from being careless. The book is packed away under some crap out in the shop, so I can't look easily. And that was exactly the point on the band saw- people tend to feel it's a safe tool, get careless and get a finger (or a thumb)into the blade. It just hums along quietly, but it'll sure bite.

Well, I sort of agree, but Fine Woodworking rates the radial arm saw as the most dangerous. And surprisingly, the machine that cuts the most people is the band saw, likely because it runs quietly, and people don't respect it as much. I've been working wood, and building boats, since the late 60's, and I too still have all my digits But I did get a finger tip into a router bit one time!!

What's an AWLA? I use finishing nails- makes smaller holes

Besides- they are just plain good folks to get to know.

What we call 1/4- isn't. Nor is 1/2 really 1/2, and so on. It's all now slightly under, requiring cabinet makers to buy new bits for routers to fit the "new" sized plywood. A true sized dado or rabbet will be sloppy And Scott- just buy a metric tape, stow it alongside your SAE tape and use which ever is called for- simple

Hey Garry- Just connected as to who you are I'm Charlie J, but the site wouldn't let me post that way anymore. Said I was already there. RC Bill- you really need high quality wood to make the bends, particularly up at the bow. If you can't find Okume locally, I'd order some. Fir marine ply today just almost isn't worth buying.

A friend posted this video from South East Texas. As a boat builder, I can relate. Beautiful

easier to handle. I've used tie wire too- tough stuff, and harder to use than needed., I now I use a galvanized wire, or copper. A quick tip- you'll want 3 inch lengths- wind 6-8-10 feet of the wire in a tight spiral around a one inch PVC pipe, slide it off the end, and using tin snips, cut along one side- Voila- a whole bunch of 3 inch pieces - PI to the rescue

Again-B and B. Check with Carla for ANYTHING you need, before you buy elsewhere. And Howard- I HIGHLY recommend cutting outside the line, and block planing TO the line. Been doing this since 1976, and I still do it that way. Norm Cross taught me that!! One reason, particularly on hull bottom halves- if there's an error, it's doubled- too wide, you have a bulge. Too deep and you get a dished spot. Chines, no so bad. Still be careful, but be really particular about the bottom halves.