Noklin

Since it sounds like I will have to rework the bad area anyway, I think I will try some experiments. I plan on trying a light coat of Part B over part of the bad area. Another part of the bad area will have a good batch of epoxy applied to see if it will cure properly. The bad area appears hard and dry, it only showed up when I tried to sand it down. Might as well learn as much as possible from the problem in addition to what I have to do to fix it. I had let my 12 year old grandson mix the epoxy that had been applied. He had helped me when we glassed the CS20. We are not sure what went wrong with this batch. Thanks for all of the suggestions.

I have seen post from several other people that indicated they have run into the same problem because of incorrect ratio or poor mixing, but I am not sure how they corrected the problem. The up side is that this happened on a honey-do-job and not on the CS20. I figured this group would be the best place to find out what I needed to do. I have a small area of glassed material that is dry to the touch but every time I attempt to sand it clogs the sandpaper in large lumps. The area around it is fully cured. The coating below the glass was fine. I have scrapped the fill coats off down to the glass, but am not sure how to proceed. It has been a month now with temperatures in the 80s so I believe that if it was going to cure it would have by now. Do I need to scrap the area down to bare wood and totally redo it? Since the coating below the glass was cured, do I only need to remove the glass and rework it from there or would the bad coat have damaged the cured coat? Can I cover this area with a proper mixture and expect it to cure properly? I believe that the wet out coat was the problem and that the other two fill coats were correct, but did not cure properly because of the fill coat. So I do not think this is a real option. Can I ignore the problem and paint over it or will the uncured epoxy cause problems with the paint.

I covering my CS20 with cloth and three coats of epoxy. I then sanded most of the epoxy off to get a smooth finish. I started with 36 grit, followed by 80 grit and finished with 120 grit. What is the proper sequence of painting from this point? Do I now paint over the sanded finish since it would provide plenty of

Per the plans, the keel is to be scribed at the aft end to fit the hull curve up to the point it reaches the minimum thickness line, in the case of the CS20 this is 1 inch. Per the plans, the keel is 3 inches at the aft end, tapering down to 1 inch approximately 6 foot forward and maintaining 1 inch to the forward end. This requires that the forward section of the keel be bent down to mate with the hull curve. Screws are normally required to hold the keel in place until the epoxy sets. Screws require holes to be drilled in the keel batten and someone working under the boat to install the screws up through the batten, the bottom of the hull and into the keel. I was wondering why the keel could not be scribed all the way forward. Then cut to match the 3 inches aft tapering to 1 inch as per the plans. Advantages:

Thanks, Howard Sorry I forgot to state that I am building a CS20.

I am making several assumptions that I wanted someone to validate. On the materials pages, it shows the keel is 5/4"x4 solid wood. On the Hull Interior Construction Plan is shows the keel is to be shaped from 1" stock. On the Keel Fitting Plan it shows keel stock as 3/4"x1 1/2". I assume that the 5/4" stock is correct. The Keel Fitting Plans talks about cutting a V notch in the bottom of the keel to fit the hull. The Centerboard Trunk & Aft Mast Step Construction Plan states to plane a flat on bottom of hull to accept keel. I assume that either method would be fine but since I have already covered the hull in glass, putting a V notch in the bottom of the keel would appear to be the best way to mount the keel.

Not sure what you priced, but when I priced the same material that I listed in the first post, it came out way more than $300 without shipping. I did not see a listing for a standard 12 ft section on their web site so I had to request a 144" section under their custom cut section. Not sure if this made a difference. I am currently shopping some other suppliers.

I checked out Online Metals. There web page showed a total price of $708 before shipping. It is looking like the local supplier is a good deal.

I have a quote from a local metal supply place for the tubing for my CS 20 mast. As per the plans, it is 6061 T6 14 gauge (0.065 walls). I have never had the need to buy tubing before, so I have no ideal if this is a fair price. 2 - 3

I will not have my boat, but I will be there late Friday until Sunday.

I don't have my CS 20 finished, but I can make it without the boat. I would love to see some CS boats sailing. Long way from Homestead, Fl. (25 miles south of Miami) but I was planning on a trip home to Southport sometime in the fall anyway.

I am doing something similar on my CS 20. I build the seats with the bulkhead installed per the plans but also added two additional bulkheads inside each seat. One forward and one aft of the plans location. This gave me three compartments of about the same size and a longer one up forward. The one at the plans location has an after market hatch installed and the others have after market screw in inspections ports. This gives me 4 water tight (hopefully) compartments per seat without adding much additional weight or cost.

Beautiful work. I hope that he has a large group of younger workers working with him so that his knowledge can be passed on to the next generation of builders. It would be a shame to lose that kind of knowledge/skill.

It appears that I will have more B&B boats in the area than I had figured, that's great. Now all I have to do is finish the boat. Have the boat here, working on the new cradle. Hope to have the boat on the new cradle and in the garage next week. Looked at the chart of the biscayne bay area. It is hard to find any depth over 10 feet. Lots of 2 to 4 foot soundings. Of course the chart datum is mean lower low water so the normal water depth will be higher than indicated. With day time temperatures still in the lower 80s and windy, I am in a hurry to finish and get the boat in the water. I met a guy where I have the boat in storage that was looking for weekend crew on his Hunter 23, but ever day spent sailing is one less day to work on my own boat.

I think my CS 20 may have set a record for the miles traveled while under construction. I purchased the plans while at home in North Carolina, started the build in north Alabama, moved the boat back to North Carolina 1 year later (685 miles), this november it will be moved to south Florida (930 miles) where the build will be completed, I hope. I think this area, biscayne bay national park, is ideal for this type of boat. Miles and miles of warm shallow water from the atlantic ocean side of the florida keys north to Miami. I was wondering what B&B boats might be located in this area.

I was looking at the swallowboats web page from the UK and saw an interesting feature on their boats. From the write up and the video, it helps one person recover the boat from a 90 or 180 degree capsize. I was wondering how it worked and if it could be back fitted to a boat like the Core Sound 20. Below is info from their web page on this feature: (Hopefully I am not violating any copyright by posting this without their permission) "Once fully inverted another big safety feature automatically kicks in. Her Asymmetric Capsize Buoyancy (ACB) is a real life saver. Boats that will self right from 90 degrees are usually also very stable upside down. Two or more crew have enough weight to right her from a full inversion, but ACB makes this possible even for one relatively small crew member. It works by flooding one side buoyancy tank when inverted, which destablizes the boat and in about 60 seconds, gives her a noticeable upside down heel angle. The skipper should wait on top of the up turned hull and right the boat by leaning on the centreboard, helping the boat heel to the same side as that induced by the ACB. Once righted, the water in the buoyancy tank floods out though the outboard well via the self draining cockpit floor. " I have read that many people figure that about 20 feet is the largest boat that one person can hope to self right from a 90 degree capsize and that to recover this size of boat from a 180 degree capsize would require outside help.

I have completed installation of the centerboard case, the forward seat area and the center seat. I have several guys from work coming over this week to help me turn over the hull. I was wondering what the right mixture of silica and microballs was for a fairing compound. I remembered that at least Ray uses a compound like this for fairing. What is the best ratio to use. What is being used by the rest?

Thanks, that is what I needed to know. It will be per the plans.

My son has suggested that instead of connecting the mast sections using fiberglass collars and bearings as per the plans, that the sections be tig welded. I intended to make the sections non-removable so being welded together would not be a problem. When I asked about the welding causing problems with the metal temper he indicated that the heat can be controller using a tig so that it would not be a problem. He said that filling the

I temporarily placed the centerboard in the case to determine how much I will need to remove from the king post. I noticed that the centerboard on the drawings is shown with a good rack aft in the down position. I do not see a stop on the drawings. My case will allow the centerboard to go vertical. Have I missed something, again?? What controls the centerboard position when down and what position should it be in when sailing, vertical or racked aft as per the drawings? If racked aft, how much?

Well, silly mistake 1001 (at least). I marked the inside of the centerboard case sides, then completely ignored the marks and glassed the outside of the first one, instead of the inside. No real problem, other than the unnecessary use of the glass cloth and epoxy. The only thing I can say in my own defense is that it had been a long day and that was the last thing I had planned to complete. I do have a question, why does the design only extend the port centerboard stringer to the forward bulkhead? Would it not be stronger if both side extended to the bulkhead? I am sure that it is not necessary, but I already have the right size stringer, which I will have to cut off for the starboard side. I understand that a lot of this unnecessary modifications can quickly add a lot of weight. Would it interfere with something?

Thanks for the fast replies. This forum really is a gold mine of information and one of the reasons I picked the B&B boats to build. After moving back to NC in Feb from AL, I am just now starting to work on the boat again. After being gone for more than 2 years, it has taken me this long to catch up on the many honey-do's.

I have looked at the pictures on the CD and the plans and I am still not sure of the answer. On a CS 20, does the starboard side of the centerboard case have an arm extending forward as the port one does or is it just cut at an angle to the top of the case to match the king post? It appears to me that it does not have the arm. Am I right?

Frank I have not been able to see any of the pictures after the software upgrade. Normally I just browse the post, but today I logged in and there were the pictures.

I like it. Does it have ballast tanks so that it can be totally submerged? I was a reactor operator on a Navy submarine back during the 70s. What depth and speed are you talking about here? How long can you stay down? What kind of drive are you using on the surface and when submerged? What is the range? Of course, with 9/10s of the hull below the water, you are limited in where you can go due to the draft.