Noklin

I should have indicated that I am building a CS 20.

I have the sides wired, the forward bulkhead installed, the temporary bulkhead installed and the transom installed. The sides flair out too wide for the temporary bulkhead to be wired at the sides. The measured beam is 6 ft 5 inches instead of the 6 ft 3 inches per the plans. The extra 2 inches of beam is equally divided between the sides with about 1 inch of space between the each side and the edge of the temporary bulkhead. The center cradle support is 1 7/8 inch below the other supports, so I do not think that I have too much rocker in the hull causing the additional flair. Is this extra flair normal at this stage or is there something else wrong. I understand from reading other post here that the inwale will help to bring the sides into a fair curve, but will it help in this situation.

I have been told that if you pack the PVC pipe with sand that you can heat and bend it without worrying about it deforming. I have never tried this. Does anyone have any experence with this method? Sounds like it should work.

Tom, I read all of the post on how the cradle supports could cause flat spots on the hull due to the weight. I tried to get around this by adding a 2X2 along the edge of the supports so that the hull weight was sitting on additional area. Can not tell yet if that is actually going to help.

Here are some pictures that were taken right after the panels were opened into a 3-D shape. At this point no bulkhead is installed nor is the side panels wired except for 3 points behind the bow glass joint.

I thought that the inwale ran in one piece from the bow to the transom, yet the forward bulkhead per the plans does not show a cut out at the top for the inwale. One is shown for the seat stringer. What am I missing?

Congratulations Graham and Fred! I have enjoyed following along. Too bad the Norseboat was not entered. Not only setting a new course record but beating two cats in the process shows just how fast the design is with a good crew on board. With a lot of help from two friends, we just unfolded CS 20 #67. It was as easy as I had read it should be. Before starting, I went to town to pick up film for the camera and could not find any. Will post pictures when I can. Both guys from work was very impressed with the design and how large it looks setting on the cradle in the garage. I know this is just the start and I have a long way to go, but it finally looking like a boat is a big inspiration.

Does anyone understand what is going on with the race? I checked out Globewave. It shows that Graham was 20.95 miles SE of Marco, Fl at 12:23. One hour later, 13:23, it shows them as 20.84 miles SE of Marco, Fl. One hour after that, 14:23, they were 20.17 miles SE of Marco, Fl making 2 mph on a course of 33 degrees. There must not be any wind to speak of. Over a 3 hour time period, they appear to have lost ground. For 2 hours Globewave shows their speed as 0.

I agree, but in this case I already have several pieces of this lumber laying around. I purchased it several months ago for another non-marine project and was wondering if I could use it for the CS20. It is taking up much needed storage space and I will have to discarded it if it can not be used for the CS20.

What kind of lumber does the following stamp apply to? N.SPR (l) GER KD-HT I searched the grade information on the WCLB web page and could find no information on this stamp. I assume that it is a type of spruce. Is this something that could be used on my CS20 for stringers and other members?

Seeing the post on the CS 17 roll over, I was wondering when is the best time to turn the hull over to work on the bottom. I am a long way from this point, CS 20 #67 is not even 3-D yet, but how much of the work inside the hull needs to be done before I roll it over to fair and glass the outside? I was thinking that after installing the inwale, the keel batten, the aft bulkhead and glassing all joints including the bulkheads, the hull would be strong enough roll over? I know that I have seen this answered here before, but searched and could not find the post.

I like it, that's good.

I just realized today that my garage is too small for the CS 20 that I am trying to build. Before starting, I measured the garage at 21 ft long by 18.5 ft wide. A tight fit, but big enough for a 20 foot boat, right! Only today did I figure out that the side panels are 250 inches long according to the plans. That is 20 feet 10 inches. 2 inches to spare. Just to be sure I re measured the garage. Guess what, the 21 feet in length included a 3 inch recessed area. 1 inch short. Long enough to assemble the panels but I will have to have the door open to turn the panels over or to cut them out. Its 30 degrees F outside with a wind chill of 25 degrees F. Opening the door to work is not something I am looking forward to. Since I am renting, doing any modifications to the garage or door is out of the question. I may just wait until spring and warm weather. Just venting, its really my fault since I have had the plans for 2 years. I just never did the math until today. I guess that I can work on the centerboard or rudder until warm weather.

Thanks for the info. As a first time builder, I am not sure what may cause an adverse impact on the looks and performance of the boat. That's partly why I ask so many dumb sounding questions. Of course, my wife has always accused me of spending too much time trying to get stuff perfect. When I tell her that a project will only take 1 hour, she knows that it will actually be 4 hours or more. That's one of the hazards of working in the nuclear power plants for over 20 years, they expect everything to be done right the first time.

I am cutting out the hull panels for a CS20. This is my first boat project, as I am sure comes as no surprise to the experienced builders that post here. One of the hull bottom panels is identical to the plan measurements, at least as close as I can measure. When stacked on top of each other, the other hull bottom panel is 1/16 off on one of the forward chine measurement. This is not just a small dip, but is a slight difference in the curve over about a 4 foot length. The area is the

Graham I think that I saw a post recently that CS 17 hull 129 was nearing completion. Do you know how many CS 17 and CS 20 have actually been build. I am guessing that you already have a full plate, but is there a get together for the CS boats in the near future? I would be interested although I have not completed my CS 20. It would be nice to finally meet some of the helpful people that post here and to see/maybe sail some of the finished boats. This would also help motivate those of us still building.

I assumed that it was a curve but wanted to make sure before cutting. I was using a piece of trim molding to lay out the lines which worked great for the bow curve, but I found that it was too flexible for other parts. With 42 inches between stations, it would move when I was trying to mark the line. I just picked up a piece of

I should have indicated that I am building a CS 20.

I am at the point of cutting out the hull panels. Looking at the plan lines, I can not determine if the stern keel lines are a straight line or a curve. If I am reading this correctly, the plans show an offset of 5/8 inch at the transom, 3/8 inch at the first station going forward,

I asked my original question to the System 3 tech support people. They indicated that there was no problem with the epoxy being affected by temperatures as low as zero (F). They stated this, but referenced no data or testing to support their answer.

After more than 2 years I finally made the first plywood cut. I cut out the 5

We try to go sailing on new years day, if possible. The water temperature on the Tennessee river is normally about 40 - 45 F during the winter. I know that epoxy has a transition temperature on the high end where it will soften and could allow highly loaded parts to move, but how does it respond to low temperatures? Does it become brittle as some plastic will do? There is always a chance of hitting something floating in the river. An open joint at these water temperatures would not be a lot of fun.

Back during the summer, when I through that I could actually start CS 20 #67, I built a 3 station cradle on six sets of casters. Before starting I reviewed all of the post about cradles and their pros and cons. The main supports were 2 pressure treated pine 4x4. When I picked them up at the store, I made sure that they were the straightest pair I could find. As in most pressure treated lumber from the local store, they were still fairly wet. After completing the cradle, I pushed it out of the way until needed. I noticed last week that after several months of storage in my hot/dry garage the middle caster no longer touched the floor. It appears that as the 4x4 dried, it developed a bow. The center caster is about 1

Does anyone know any thing about tools made by the Global Machinery Company out of Victoria, Australia? As in most tools these days, at least in the states, these are actually made in China. I saw this brand today in the local Lowes store. I was looking at a DeWalt power planer that had a 5.2 amp motor, no load speed of 15,000 rpm, two cutting blades and a maximum cut of 3/32 inch. The GMC planer had a 6.5 amp motor, no load speed of 16,000 rpm, three cutting blades and a maximum cut of 1/8 inch for less than half the price. I normally believe in buying the best tool I can afford, but that applies to tools that I expect to use often. The power planer was for scrafing plywood panels and I do not expect to have much use for it once the CS 20 is completed.

Does anyone know anything about Joubert Okoume BS1088 marine plywood made in France? The suppliers site indicates that it is certified by Lloyd