Dave Fleming

'eyrster' was just down your way, what coast I cannot recall. He spotted a number of local types. Send him an email.

Mike, the boat carpenter 'round the corner has only 7 or more ply Joubert ply as to the woods used....I haven't a clue. Nice stuff as I look at it though. And it all has that Blue Label as shown in the URL of the post above.

:?: Mike, jes' for the hell of it, I went and looked at the Joubert that Shane uses. It has a different sticker on it and all the thicknesses from approx. 3/8 t0 3/4 inch are the multiple 7 or more ply. Sticker is two tone blue no yellow in it at all.

eyrster, that is a sweet image. PS: ya sure ya din't pose the young lad fer it. :wink:

'zat a Yates American J-Line machine?

:wink: I'm working on 'eyrster' to set up an album of his disassembly, pattern making and new build of the Simmons which I will glady host on my PictureTrail site. Remember folks for 'eyrster', this is a labour of love, so our patience is needed.

:wink: 'eyster' is documenting the dismantling and building of a new Simmons SeaSkiff based on the parts. He carefully dismantled the boat in the photos and traced the parts on pattern stock. The next step, when he has time amongst his other gazzilion projects, is to use the templates to build a new Simmons. ACES, or so say I.

Just how big an area are we talking about here? When you say Mahagony what kind are you referring to? I wouldn't use that Philippine stuff as it is a collection of different varieties of a Cedar, not very sturdy for continued walking on, IMOOP. 'nuther way to do it....really the old way. :wink: Instead of epoxiee, wasn't borned yet. We would screw each join from underneath! Mitred corners were fastened with slip dovetails. Verrah Verrah tedious work usually done by one fellow who specialzied it making 'em.

TEAK is left bare for good traction. Haven't had one fail....yet? I cannot see putting a finish other than say a coat or two of Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil on a grate anything more than that and you negate the 'footing factor' of bare Teak.

Teak Grate making is not rocket science tho a bit on the tedious side. Lots o'Ripping and Dadoing. Making a good fitting template or pattern out of 3/8ths inch MDF and layout the border pieces then fill in the actual grate strip locations. 1 inch finished thickness stock is fine. The border pieces should be spline mitered. Googe( gasp ) especially formulated for Teak, you're on your way.

Holey Moley, will ya look at the size of that centerboard trunk in the New Haven Sharpie photo that 'eyrster' posted?!?!

Usual Caveat: These are my own personal opinions... Resorcinol is a 2 part glue, one part powder, one part liquid. It is best used in some type of enclosed environment. Marinette Marine and Peterson Builders in Wisconsin, USA used it extensively in the building of wooden mine sweepers in the early 1950's in the fabrication of White Oak laminated frames. The glue takes a goodly amount of clamping pressure and proper temperature to set up. It got a bit of a bad reputation when it first became available to the general boat building world. Folks did not take the time to read the instructions fully or just didn't read them at all. A number of significant failures happened with White Oak in particular. Weldwood Plastic Resin is a creme coloured powder mixed with water to a creamy consistency. It requires a temp above 65 or so F. degrees and HIGH clamping pressure. White PVA should never be used except for light household repairs or temporary items. It is not waterproof and it creeps under load. So called 'carpenters glue' is a variation of the original formula modified to improve some of the poor working qualities of white PVA. Mr.S. is doing an emperical testing of some newer adhesives mentioned in at least one thread over on the WB Forums but, the results will not be available until sometime in December. I have used both Resorcinal and Plastic Resin with success in both boat building and out door furniture making. I am quite sure I mentioned here in a previous post on glue, some out door furniture I made out of Redwood for The Sonoma Cheese Factory have been in continous use for over 30 years in Sonoma, California, 7/24/365 using Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue. There are a number of more modern adhesives that I have used in small quantities but, I do not feel qualified to speak yea or nay about them.

I know Pat personally and can without hesitation vouch for his honesty and commitment to producing a fine tool or accessory for router use. To the best of my knowledge the DW 621 has been made in a number of locations, Switzerland, Italy, England, and lately China. Under those circumstances it is not too difficult to understand how a base could be off.

Semper Paratus Cape May, New Jersey Recruit Company P-42, 1958

Motor LifeBoat School, Cape Disappointment. http://www.uscg.mil/hq/g-o/nmlbs/index.html

So you was over by Sea World, eh? :wink: Have fun dodging the damn jet skis?? :roll:

Every time I was involved with a new build it was with a little cloud of sadness as the vessel slipped down the ways. You put your effort doing the best you could, never mind you are doing it for wages. Above all you did it because you love boats, well built boats. One of my mentors, Alec Davidson, impressed on me early on in my apprenticeship that we who build and repair have a big responsibility to do the best we can, peoples lives depend on how well we did our job. A boat is almost a living thing to me and, to be involved with one from loft to launch was/is something not to be forgotten.

After looking closely at the LINDER knife, I recommeded it to Bob Smalser. I know he got it and made a dandy sheath for it and the 'spike. He did a write up over on the WB Forums. I haven't heard back from him on how the knife performs. On leaf springs...I have read in the USENET newsgroup, rec.crafts.metalworking, that after a certain date the steel formulation of auto leaf springs was changed and this later steel is not well thought of for knife making. Alexander Weygers wrote a nifty book or two on making tools from scrap steel that were later collected into one volume, still in print. Plus there is a web site devoted to his work, sculpture, metal, wood.

Whilst out here in 'insane Diego' we are in the midst of a Santa Anna. Wind off the desert, temps in the 70's during the day and low 40's at night. Hummmaddity is about 20-32%! You can imagine what that does the the wood stash. When I got word of the pending S.A. I went around like a madman with thinned Waterlox and cheap brush slathering every end of every piece of wood I have in the ready room. Most were freshly cut to size ( + ). Glad I fudge a bit until the final finish cut. 'eyrster' I hate to see all those fine veggies get frost bit! You folks be careful with those roads.

:roll: By looking around, folla?

:idea: http://catalog.thecrosbygroup.com/BODY_301.HTM

Well I went to that site and nosed around and found a number of ROPE blocks including snatch blocks, sources of rope etc.. CROSBY a big name in rigging supplies is listed and has a web site hilighted in those pages too. If you are looking for a ready made block and tackle that rigging house may just be able to help you too. :idea:

:wink: Pssst, this was at the top of the page when I opened this topic: http://www.marineandindustrial.com/

The Canvas on Deck question comes up frequently on the Woodenboat Forums. Here in a *peanut shell* is what I know about it. In the days when Rudder, Motorboating, The Skipper were the epitome of the boat magazine world, they would feature a new design each issue. Many of these were drawn for the magazine and copies of the plans were available to the public for a very nominal sum. Motorboating had a rather extensive series, many with plans by the Atkin's father and son and Rudder had plans by LFH. There were others of course. In the 20's and 30's and even after WW II in the late 1940's, canvas deck covering was quite popular and recommended by many of those designers. A boat builder at that time, had a choice of products to use to bed and paint the canvas. KUHL's was a big maker of a number of such products. Bedding Compounds, Double Planking Cement ( not really a cement but a semi-flexible compound to apply between the layers ) and, Canvas Cement and Paint. There were shop brewed compounds too. White Lead Paste mixed with things like Linseed Oil, Turps, Japan Drier for bedding the canvas if it was to be painted White or Red Lead Paint if the canvas was to be painted another darker colour. On light craft the canvas would be bedded directly to the wood deck whilst heavier vessels would use Irish Felt layed on before the canvas as an underlayment. The felt would be fastened with copper tacks or nails, the "wet" canvas would be stretched over this and, if I recall correctly paint applied to the still damp canvas. I believe the idea was as the water in the canvas evaporated the wet paint would be drawn into the fibers of the canvas. Canvas is made in different weights ie: 6 oz., 8 oz., 12 oz., etc.. Depending upon the vessel the canvas weight would be chosen. Now commercial fishermen out there on the West Coast of North America used another product for bedding and painting canvas. ARABOL, a lagging compound originally developed for applying Asbestos cloth to cover the Asbestos cladding over steam and Bunker C pipes on ships. This product, ARABOL, was made by the Borden Company, the dairy and chemical mfg.. It was made from milk and had a slightly rubbery/elastic feel to it when dry. Clean up was with plain H2O. The elastic property was what probably attracted some frugal canny fisherman to try it in the first place. It was moderately durable, easy to re-apply and CHEAP! Nowadays again, to the best of my knowledge ARABOL is not made but ,there are newer products to take it's place. Any commercial insulating company would be able to recommend one, I'm sure. Red Lead Paint is still made by the venerable firm of George Kirby and Son in New England and perhaps they make a White Lead version too. Well that is about it from me. Hope this helps abit.

:idea: Nice job Mike, so many people have trouble getting ellipses right. edited to correct sentence structure. :wink: