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Dave R1

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  1. Dave R1

    Hi All

    Ray F and Charlie make some good points that you may wish to consider. On the other hand, the problems Charlie lists are all surmountable. Granted to do so requires varying from the plans a bit but at least in my experience none of these variations have caused any problems. My seats are wider and allow for feet to be comfortable. The boom isn't too low. My steering mechanism is easily accessed through a hatch in the middle of the stern deck. A side benefit to the hatch over the steering mechanism is that if there is a failure in the steering mechanism, one can remove the hatch and grab the stub tiller to steer the boat.
  2. Dave R1

    Hi All

    Ray, there isn't a lot of head room in the cabin. Some folks have raised theirs to gain more room. Mine isn't much worse than my small 2-person tent although it is a bit more painful and noisy when I bump my head on the roof. I think if I were building it again, I'd consider shortening the cabin to the middle rafter. If I thought I'd like to camp in the boat, I'd make box type seats between the cabin and the existing location for the cabin bulkhead so there'd be some leg room. I raised the boom on my boat by about 8" so the boom clears my head a bit easier during tacking. I also added 3' to the mast height which allowed me to spread out the hardware aloft.
  3. Dave R1

    Lazi Dawg

    Does anyone know this guy Graybeard Paine? Looks like he built a cabinless Weekender in Oklahoma. http://graybeardpaine.com/lazi_dawg.htm
  4. Dave R1

    Hi All

    Ray, the side decks aren't that wide to begin with and I think you'll need what width there is. I am almost 6'2" and like to either stretch my legs out or tuck them underneath when I am sailing. I built slatted seats that are open below. I added a drawer at the forward end of the port seat to hold a few tools and other bits and bobs. (Bill, Kari's eyepatch is still in there from launch day. ) I couldn't find any good pictures of the seats but you can sort of see them here:
  5. Steve, my in-laws have a couple of them. The primary hull problems I have seen are in the area of the fairlead on deck near hear the mast that turns the halyard toward the cleat. The deck shows cracks--one of the boats had been repaired by a previous owner. The rudder mounting arrangement varies by age and you would want to examine the way it attaches to the hull. The older hardware has a pin that sometimes goes missing. The old masts had cork in them dso they'd float. My brother in law had one where the cork had deteriorated. He turtled the boat one day and the halyard got loose. The mast went right to the bottom in about 80 feet of water. He ended up getting a new mast. The older Sunfish that my wife's folks have is about as happy to sail backward as it is to sail forward. In fact it is tough to get it to start going forward after it starts backing. The newer one seems to be better. You might find a 25HP four stroke on the back would make it a bit more exciting boat.
  6. It's looking good Dennis. Did you scale your Weekender up? It looks huge compared to your Jeep.
  7. Just wondering what other folks have done in the bottom of their cabins. I put down a layer of 3/4" pink foam (same thickness as the stringers and butt block between the two bottom pieces. Then I laid a piece of carpet in cut to shape. Recently I discovered a tiny bit of rot on the butt block which I expect is due to the carpet being wet in that area. I usually have a plastic tub sitting there for anchor line and other misc. stuff. Anyway, I took care of the rot but it got me to wondering, do you all have carpet in the cabin or did you leave it empty?
  8. Dave R1

    motor mount

    Adla, you can see that my boat sits with the transom out of the water a good way when there's no one in it. I'm not exactly sure but I think when there are two in the cockpit the waterline is up on the transom maybe an inch or two. My motor mount is a little high for the shaft on the motor I have. If a 200 pounder goes out onto the foredeck while I'm sitting forward in the cockpit, part of the prop comes up out of the water. I need to change the mount but I need to change the mounting screws on the motor before I can lower it anymore. Out of curiosity, did you check to see if the rudder would clear the motor before mounting it? The whole setup looks great.
  9. Dennis, recently I drew out the Weekender rudder from the plans and found that those radii are incorrect. Actually they should have been identified as diameters. I don't remember what I did when I laid out the rudder to actually make it but here are corrected dimensions. Note that if the pivot hole is placed as per the plans in the rudder and the rudder box, you'll end up needing to extend that 8 5/8" dimension a little to get the rudder to swing through 90
  10. Congratulations Grandpa!
  11. Here's the picture my wife took. Rob is on the left.
  12. It's a Small World After All. So a few days ago I was out sailing Julie K with my mother in law on Long Lake near Park Rapids, MN. We were having a good time even though it was hot and the wind was kind of finicky. We're out in the middle of the lake and I see an aluminum fishing boat set out from shore and heading in our general direction. I was wondering if I would need to take evasive action but the skipper of the other boat slowed down when he got near. He yelled over to me, "Is that a Stevenson Weekender?" "Yeah," I replied, "How did you know?" Imagine my surprise when he yelled back, "I'm building one and it's almost finished." Turns out it was Rob McKinney from Clive, Iowa. His family has been vacationing on Long Lake for about 5 years, my in laws since 1960 (I can't do the math because my brain is shot from the heat and the drive home today. ) He was pretty surprised, too, to see a Weekender in the flesh. The next afternoon he came down to the cabin to take a look at the boat. The morring was perfect and we could walk around the boat in knee deep water and take a look from all sides. Then we went for a sail--his first. Even though the winds were again kind of finickiy and twitchy we got a couple of runs with the rail in the water and also had time to talk about Weekenders. Hopefully he'll be joining us for the Boats of Unusual Sail on Lake Pepin on August 19th. I for one am excited to see his boat. I hope he goes back to Clive with a new push to get her finished and in the water. Good to meet you Rob. I think my wife took pictures of Rob and I. If she did, I'll post them.
  13. I'd be interested in that arrangement. I am planning a new rudder box this winter becuse the plywood on the old one is starting to delaminate at the bottom and I don't like that inaccessible area between the cheeks on the stock design. Let me know what Chuck would want and when they are available. Thanks.
  14. I quote Barry's post on the first page: "The big challenge with Red Oak is that its residual moisture content will cause it to begin to blacken under the finishes and decompose."
  15. Edited because it was not on topic.
  16. yellow poplar- Magnoliaceae Liriodendron tulipifera L. I expect you're right. From what I can see there are other "poplars" This is from the Wikipedia Classification Populus section Populus - aspens and white poplar. Circumpolar subarctic and cool temperate, and mountains further south (white poplar warm temperate) Populus tremula - Common Aspen, Trembling Aspen or Eurasian Aspen. Europe, northern Asia. Populus tremuloides - Quaking Aspen or Trembling Aspen. North America. Populus grandidentata - Bigtooth Aspen. Eastern North America. Populus adenopoda - Chinese Aspen. Eastern Asia. Populus sieboldii - Japanese Aspen. Eastern Asia. Populus alba - White Poplar. Southern Europe to central Asia. Populus x canescens (P. alba x P. tremula) - Grey Poplar A poplar in autumn coloursPopulus section Aegiros - black poplars or cottonwoods. North America, Europe, western Asia; temperate Populus nigra - Black Poplar. Europe. Populus x canadensis (P. nigra x P. deltoides) - Hybrid Black Poplar Populus deltoides - Eastern Cottonwood. Eastern North America. Populus fremontii - Fremont Cottonwood. Western North America. Populus section Tacamahaca - balsam poplars. North America, Asia; cool temperate Populus angustifolia - Willow-leaved Poplar or Narrowleaf Cottonwood. Central North America. Populus balsamifera - Ontario Balsam Poplar. Northern North America. Populus trichocarpa - Western Balsam Poplar or Black Cottonwood. Western North America. Populus laurifolia - Laurel-leaf Poplar. Central Asia. Populus simonii - Simon's Poplar. Northeast Asia. Populus maximowiczii - Maximowicz' Poplar. Northeast Asia. Populus section Leucoides - necklace poplars or bigleaf poplars. Eastern North America, eastern Asia; warm temperate Populus heterophylla - Swamp Cottonwood. Southeastern North America. Populus lasiocarpa - Chinese Necklace Poplar. Eastern Asia. Populus wilsonii - Wilson's Poplar. Eastern Asia. Populus section Turanga - subtropical poplars. Southwest Asia, east Africa; subtropical to tropical Populus euphratica - Euphrates Poplar. Southwest Asia. Populus ilicifolia - Tana River Poplar. East Africa.
  17. Greg, the bitts, stub tiller and cabin hatch slides are red oak. No problems with any of those parts either. Glad you found the link useful. I sent Barbour Plastics an e-mail asking about the possibility of getting some samples of a few profiles. I was expecting pieces about 2" long. They called me up to get details of the profiles I was interested in. The fellow I spoke to asked me if I wanted more samples so I took one more. When they came they were 18" long and included the rubber tube that snaps into the extrusion. The length will make it easier to see how they'll bend around the sheer.
  18. Jake, I know yellow poplar is not supposed to be durable. I used it because I couldn't get anything else that was clear. I haven't had any problems with it at all. In fact a couple of weeks ago I sanded the paint off my rudder while doing a little minor repair work. The wood looks as good as it did when I first made the rudder. My Weekender's keel, seats and bow sprit as well as all the stringers and butt blocks are yellow poplar and nothing shows any issues. Again, I'd have used DF (or SYP) if I could have gotten it at a reasonable price. I would have had to order it from someone and had it shipped. I got the yellow poplar cut to my cut list along with all the drops and rips for less than I could have bought knotty, twisty, wet construction lumber for. By the way, the late Robb White built many boats from yellow poplar with great success.
  19. Wow, I had no idea the stuff would cure white. Mine was always brown. I wonder what makes it go white. Thanks for that. I have a tub and a half of the stuff. I bet they are both too old. :cry:
  20. Ken, take a look at this link: http://www.barbourplastics.com/marine-prod-rubrails.htm You can download their product catalog. The profiles that were sent to me are 0818, 0817, 92202, and 828. My wife has the camera so I can't take any pictures of the samples. I'll see if I can take some pictures of the samples taped onto the boat when we get back from the lake next week. I also owe you some dimensions which I will try to get for you.
  21. Good of you to post your follow up and good on them for fixing you up and making the situation correct in their stores. Now, with two cases of glue, you'd better get to gluing stuff. Out of curiosity, how far out is the expiration date on this new stuff?
  22. Ooh. Mr. Router? I'd better not tell my wife that. Are you still building this evening? I'm doing daddy duty tonight but Ian's asleep so now I can get back to living the boat builder's life vicariously through you, Ken. Thanks. Got anymore little tidbits I can think on this evening?
  23. Ray makes a good point about how to cut and glue up strips and it is less likely to warp that way. On the other hand my solid yellow poplar rudder has never warped so I don't believe it is a foregone conclusion that one would warp for you either. As Charlie mentions, plywood laminated up can also make a good rudder. Just seal it and paint it. By the way, do you have a router that will handle 1/2" shank router bits? If so, you can joint boards for gluing. Just get a 1/2" or slightly larger flush trim pattern bit. Clamp a straight edge to the wood and run the bit along it to make a straight edge.
  24. Ken, you should probably either glue up several 4" wide pieces yourself or, as I did use a solid, single piece of wood for the rudder. That stuff the big box stores sel that is laminated shouldn't be trusted iin this application. If you glue it yourself you can be assured that it will be done with waterproof glue or epoxy. It is a good thing you discovered this now instead of while you're in the middle of a lake.
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