Dave R1

Congratulations on getting a difficult assemblt together. It won't be long now. When I got ready to do it, I laid a small scrap of 4x4 on the keel and then a piece of 2x6 crosswise and on edge. The 2x6 was long enough to just extend past the edges of the bottom panel. Then I used a couple of Quick Grip clamps to pull the bottom up. I was able to adjust the clamps so that the curve looked symmetrical when standing behind the boat. I used the same method for the transom curve and then worked both until the curves met up. I've seen curved cauls used on the transom and I'm sure it works, too. Had I had a bandsaw availableI might have done that as well. As it worked out, the way I did it was simple and took little time to set up.

Jake and Bill, your boats sure look nice. Another option for flying the flag from the peak would be to put a small block at the end of the gaff--maybe a small cheek block--and run a halyard through it. Cleat it off to the aft end of the boom. put a stopper in the halyard so it can't go through the block, stopping the flag at the peak. If both ends of the halyard are belayed to the cleat after the flag is raised, you don't need much tension to keep the flag at the top. Of course the halyard would be "endless".

Considering how thin your rails are, I'd not even bother filling the holes to cover the screws. I think you're correct about not having room for a counter bore for a wooden plug. Unless your sanding dust is really, really fine, you'll find it makes a very rough putty. It doesn't sound to me like you have much excess rail available to lose to sanding which would happen if you fill with with epoxy putty. My suggestion is to use some bronze screws and set their heads just below the surface. You could even be real A/R and line up the slots all the same direction. Another option to consider would be to simply clamp the top rail while epoxying it in place. An excuse to buy more clamps, of course. The epoxy would be more than strong enough. The lower rails can be glued and screwed from the inside. I made a gauge that ran along the upper rail to mark the center line of my lower rail. Then I drilled small holes (1/8") to show where the screws had to go. I also used a gauge block between the rails when installing the lower rail so it would be spaced properly. The only problem would be blind-screwing the ends of the lower rails but you could do some creative clamping to overcome that. After all that, if you did decide to use wooden plugs, make sure they are inserted with the grain running the same direction as the surrounding stock. The thing I used todrill the pilot hole and countersink for the head happens to be able to counterbore as well and luckily I have a plug cutter the same diameter. Good luck.

Hey Bill, I was thinking about you the other day, too. Have you got your boat out and readied for the water, yet? If you're ever looking for something to do on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon, you're welcome to come down and give me some advice. By the way, the colors we decided on are based on Kirby's paint chips. The hull up to the lower rubrail is 1-Green Gray, the space between the rails and the upper part of the transom is 12-Bottle Green, Rails are 8-See Red. The cabin sides and main bulkhead will be Green Gray (I think) while deck surfaces and seats will be 32-Sand.

Thanks guys. Frank, I hope I don't have any of the problems Mike had. The directions on the can said to recoat in 4 hours so I did put a second coat on. I guess I'll ignore it for a week or so and see what happens. Maybe I'll get to launch this summer. To think that three years ago, Frank, you gave me a link to your site about the construction of Aslan and now, I'm finally getting close. Thanks a bunch Frank.

thanks Barry, I should have included that it is over epoxy sanded with a 80 grit. I didn't prime based on advice I got someplace-CRS prevents me from recalling just where.

It's probably too late for this but I'll tell you how I'd do it. Draw parallel lines to the ones you have 6" inside. The center of your arc is the intersection of the two lines. Set your compass for 6" and voila you have your arc.