ejds Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I just ordered laminated glass for the three windshield sections. The frames are made out of plywood and have for now a couple of coats of CPES. What kind of sealant is best to use between the glass and the wood. It needs to be removable in case a pane breaks or cracks. Also does the area where the sealant goes need to be painted like the rest of the frame. I saw somewhere on the woodenboat forum not to paint those areas. Egbert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 First seal the area where you've put the CPES with straight epoxy, at least a couple of uniform coats. CPES doesn't seal wood. This is one of the very few places where a silicone works best. Yes, you can paint under the glass contact area, though the paint needs to be well cured (a week or more). A very light scuff with a ScotchBrite pad and apply the goo. Tape off the areas you don't want this stuff, as it'll foul any surface it touches. Set the glass and peel the tape for a nice, clean install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 First seal the area where you've put the CPES with straight epoxy, at least a couple of uniform coats. CPES doesn't seal wood. This is one of the very few places where a silicone works best. Yes, you can paint under the glass contact area, though the paint needs to be well cured (a week or more). A very light scuff with a ScotchBrite pad and apply the goo. Tape off the areas you don't want this stuff, as it'll foul any surface it touches. Set the glass and peel the tape for a nice, clean install. CPES is a complete waste of time and money. Fortunately it doesn't do any damage. I suggest you seal over it as Paul has suggested. Slicone is pure evil, but for glazing there is nothing better, yet anyway. Do not take Paul's advice on masking lightly. You want the stuff no where but between the glass and bedding surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lathrop Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Advice above is good. I used 101 sealant because it was on hand and worked OK. Silicone is fine but I don't use much of it because of its ability to get into and on everything. I'm one of the hold outs who have never used CPES. It may be wonderful but have not felt the need to buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejds Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Thanks for the advice, I can seal it with epoxy, no paint on the areas that will receive the sealant. I would like to stay away from silicone, with my way of working it gets everywhere. The 101 looks promising or something similar like Totalboat Elastomeric sealant that stays flexible. Egbert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 3M 101 is a poly-sulfide. It is not particularly adhesive, at least compared to silicone or polyurethane sealants. It also attacks some plastics and the white yellows with age. I have used Sikaflex 291 for bedding safety glass to fiberglass, it works well. For acrylics and polycarbonate I use silicone exclusively. I don't know anything about Total Boat Elastormeric, but it is described as a tenacious adhesive, so I doubt it is anything like 101. I don't like tenacious sealants for bedding anything. I like to know I can take things apart later if I have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 3M 101 isn't very aggressive as an adhesive, more of a sealant. It's ideal below the LWL on wood and in deck seams, though 2 part polysulfide is a better choice on deck seams. If you don't paint over the epoxied areas, UV can attack it through the sealant. I've used polyurethanes, polysulfides and silicone on glazing and silicone works best, but it has to be applied carefully, to insure it gets only where you want it. Most elastomerics are acrylic urethanes or polyurethanes, though some are still petroleum based. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejds Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Thanks All, Using silicone after the frames are painted and before they are installed on the boat shouldn't be too hard. That way the silicone can be kept away from doing harm to the surroundings. Egbert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Glazing the glass to the frames, then installing the frames seems awfully tedious to me. But if you have a plan then it should work. I would be more concerned about smearing epoxy all over stuff trying to handle the glass/frame assembly, locating it in place, then securing it. I have found a good masking job sufficient to controlling where the silicone goes and doesn't go. I will mask with tape, then extend the masking with masking paper (wax paper or sheet plastic work too). This way even I can keep the goo off the surrounding surfaces, and I can be a slob. Good luck, I think you have made some wise choices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejds Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 The glass will be installed in sub-frames that in turn get installed in the fixed frames on the boat. That way all three windshields look the same. Either the center one will be opening or the two outer ones, haven't decided that yet. It should make installing the glass easier as it can be done on a work bench instead of sitting on the fore deck. The non opening sub-frame(s) will be glued in the fixed frames with some Sikaflex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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