A Ravenswood Build

[Bcone1381]

Lastly, she weighs in at 29 pounds.

The fabric is drum tight and plenty flexible. It has a nice ring when pinged with a finger. The covering is superior in my opinion to the first kayak I skinned (which I liked at the time.....Cory's Goop over a loose weave 8oz polyester.). Time will tell if the skin relaxes, but Reports from others tell me it won't.

I hope the epoxy sealing of the Dacron keeps the dye sealed up too. If she is not sealed, and rain drops impacted the dye, then the color will wash out of her. At this point I think I am ok. A little green dye got on the right pant leg, nowhere else and we were out about 45 Minutes today.

[P Doug (WA)]

Looks like you did a great job on that kayak.  The finish give it kind of a weathered hide look to me, I like it.

[Kudzu]

Glad she likes and it and thanks for the compliments.

 

BTW. The acid dye is for use on nylon. Everything I read says you can't dye polyester.  Not sure what happens but I guess we will find out.

[Bcone1381]

I had not heard that one should not use acid dye with poly, but I may be finding out, for two hours on the water resulted in slight dye transferring to my clothing and onto the wood frame.  Would there have been more if the Dacron had not been sealed with the epoxy?  After seeing the rains drops effect it I think so.  "Don't try this at home...yet" should be our attitude I think.

 

I will varnish the interior cockpit in an attempt to stop this slight transfer.  I now sense that dye penetration of dacron is way different from cotton as shown by this photo after the first dye application and wiping off excess dye with this rag.

 

[nrjones502]

It's been a while since I updated, and I lost track of time and cost, got behind, but persevered and got her in the water today.

The covering system I experimented with time used non-certified light-weight aircraft fabric top coated with fiberglass. The Ravenswood started out whited, then I dyed it with Jacquard Acid dye. I choose the color Spruce, and after my first attempt the question of the day was "Brooks, Why did you choose that color?" It was just ugly with a capital U! Steeley blueish gray with a hint of green.

image.jpg

The next day I mixed up another batch of dye, heated it to 180F, applied it and immediately ironed it into the fabric with iron set at 250-280F. An uneven streaky look turned out, but it was closer to the dark green I was hoping for.

image.jpg

As it sat outside drying, an isolated rain cloud moved over, and sprinkled large drops onto the Kayak. I saw my dyed hull fabric become spotted! Well, it looked kind of cool, so I turned it over so rain could spot the deck too. It was like dying Easter eggs...the more I did, the better it looked...impossible to make it look ugly if you just keep trying things.

image.jpg

 

I like the idea of fiberglassing the SoF design. Could you skip the initial step (dacron used by other sites) and epoxy the fiberglass directly on the frame (after attempting to stretch it, in order to prevent sag) or would the weight of the epoxy cause it to sag between the stringers? If this is the case, what prevented the epoxy from causing the initial skin to sag?

[Bcone1381]

Skipping the dacron step would not work.  The dacron provides a base for the glass fabric to lay down and adhere to.  The dacron is very inexpensive, light weight, and is easily applied to the kayak frame.  After the dacron is applied, it shrinks with a household iron I think up to something like 15%.  It tightens up just like a drum. This stuff (non-certified aircraft covering dacron) is engineered to permanently tighten when heated, and stays tight with various humidity and temperature ranges. 

 

The attributes of the covering system is light weight, wide coloring/dying choices, easy ability to add covering strength and durability in specific locations where we all need it most (on the bottom and keel), very easy to repair, no relaxation of fabric over time or with changing atmospheric conditions, a uniform drum tight fabric with little effort, all at a cost that is competitive with other methods widely used.

 

BTW, To update about the dye transfer.  There was zero dye transfer where the dacron was sealed with the epoxy when attempts were made using boiling water, detergents, and a white cotton cloth.  The dye transfer took place at the coaming stitching where it was not sealed where my leg contacted the coaming the first two times it was used.  After this area was washed with with very very hot water the dye transfer issues stopped.  

[Bcone1381]

 this is the case, what prevented the epoxy from causing the initial skin to sag?

 

I may not have answered this question specifically.   The dacron is tight like a drum...It makes a nice ring then plucked with a finger.  The weight of the fiberglass cloth and epoxy is insufficient to cause any sagging.  I used about a quart of epoxy on the entire kayak.

[nrjones502]

Skipping the dacron step would not work.  The dacron provides a base for the glass fabric to lay down and adhere to.  The dacron is very inexpensive, light weight, and is easily applied to the kayak frame.  After the dacron is applied, it shrinks with a household iron I think up to something like 15%.  It tightens up just like a drum. This stuff (non-certified aircraft covering dacron) is engineered to permanently tighten when heated, and stays tight with various humidity and temperature ranges. 

 

The attributes of the covering system is light weight, wide coloring/dying choices, easy ability to add covering strength and durability in specific locations where we all need it most (on the bottom and keel), very easy to repair, no relaxation of fabric over time or with changing atmospheric conditions, a uniform drum tight fabric with little effort, all at a cost that is competitive with other methods widely used.

 

BTW, To update about the dye transfer.  There was zero dye transfer where the dacron was sealed with the epoxy when attempts were made using boiling water, detergents, and a white cotton cloth.  The dye transfer took place at the coaming stitching where it was not sealed where my leg contacted the coaming the first two times it was used.  After this area was washed with with very very hot water the dye transfer issues stopped.  

I think that may be the way to go. The "traditional" sof design of nylon or poly seams fine, but I just like the idea of fiberglass. A few extra pounds doesn't concern me.

Thanks for the help, I will be attempting my build as soon as I get settled in the new house (moving to Nashville) by the lake.

[rebeccawheeler]

Could someone post the dimensions of the Ravenwood cockpit? I want to get a sprayskirt but my Ravenwood is currently at my builder's getting some work done, so I can't measure it myself. 

 

(Thanks to Ben Thacker-Gwaltney for a beautiful boat: http://www.tidewatersmallcraft.com/2014/04/14/lightest-ravenswood-15-yet/)

[Kudzu]

I don't have one handy to measure, but why not email Ben?  I am sure he will be happy to measure it andit is possible he altered it from the design too.

 

If not, I can tell you a Harmony Large touring skirts fit pretty well.