Steering assembly

[Derek]

Well, I just went back to the drawing board, so to speak, and changed my mind again, to go back to using a wheel instead of a tiller. My question is this (to those of you who are using a wheel): What are you using for a control line?

I was thinking of using vinyl sheathed cable (to avoid constantly adjusting from stretch), but re-reading Phil Gowan's steering set-up page http://www.pragdata.com/philboat/ConSteering2.html, he said he went back to a low-stretch rope as the cable snapped where it wore on the blocks. Suggestions? Comments? Your current situation?

Thanks.

[Frank Hagan]

Nelson Surbrook had a solution that I think has worked now without any problems at all ... check out his site at http://www.surbrook.org

Nelson hasn't been around for a while, but I'm sure he wouldn't mind an email query checking on his steering solution.

[John Weigandt]

I went stock as per the plans. Used a 1/4 inch polyester braided rope, and all adjustment was done in the first season.

As the Stevensons have said, once it is dialed in you don't have to adjust it again.. My boat is 5 years old, and I don't touch the tension on the steering at all. I did use a little automotive belt dressing the first season to help friction.

Funny how the plans so often work as given

John

[Craig]

I started with the cheap rope that never quit stretching, then went to plastic covered cable that shed the plastic and jammed the blocks. FinallyI bought the best 1/4" rope West sold. No problems since. Rigged her up used it twice. readjusted once and never again. Go with the good stuff...

[Knut]

I modified to the Nelson Soorbrook solution and it has worked perfect without a single adjustment so far. I used 1/4" braided rope and it all works best without a lot of tension in the rope, so I do not expect to have to adjust at all.

If you plan to use a wheel, this is the way to go.

Solution presented via link:

http://www.surbrook.org/nelson/steering.htm

[Russ Sylvester]

The only change I made to Tom's setup was to have the turnbuckle up against the gunwale instead of going down to the bottom. I wanted to keep the turnbuckle out of the saltwater as much as possible.

I put two inspection ports on the top of the lazarette which when opened give me excellent access to the rope and turnbuckle. I used the good rope from West and it stretched a little the first time or two out which was 2-1/2 years ago. Works like a champ.

[Barry Pyeatt]

I too used Tom's setup. Just take some care with your geometry on the placement of the blocks/line in relation to the shaft so it tracks straight. It is all about geometry for a smooth working system. I didn't want anything sticking out thru hull either. I prestretched the double braided rope by hanging a block from a ceiling joist and hanging a 5 gallon bucket of paint from it for a few days. :idea: I don't think it will need much adjustment.

[Derek]

Thanks all. Good feedback. Good quality, low stretch line it is, and most likely going with Tom's modified steering.

[Guest bob taylor]

One my 1 1/2" pipe axle I drilled a hole through both side so the low stretch line could be routed through both sides of the pipe. I made plastic bushings so the line doesn't get eaten up by the steel pipe. I also tied knots in the line on both sides of the holes where the line exits the pipe. There is no way it can slip. I installed a turnbuckle where the line attaches to the rudder so it's easy to get to for adjustment. I can post pics if you'd like.

[P Doug (WA)]

"I can post pics if you'd like"

Bob, I think we all like pictures.

Thanks

[Dave R1]

Just thought I'd stick in a picture of my steering assembly. This is, obviously, from before the sides went on. It is a $12 buffing mandrel with bronze bushings and oil ports.

http://www.messing-about.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=123

[Capn Trey]

I think I have tried them all, started with a tiller, changed to Wheel with rope and pulleys, and finally went with a Safe-T-Helm rotary helm and cable and finally I have a steering system I like!

Cap't Trey