cs20 dodger update

[wkisting]

Hi all,

 

Some of you may recall that I started building a folding dodger for our CS20 a year ago and made my own tubing bender to form the bows. That project got put abruptly on hold because we unexpectedly bought a new vehicle and money became tight. However, I found some 316 SS fittings at a great price awhile back and they finally came, so I thought you might like to see how the project is coming.

 

Thinking through the frame geometry took a lot of hours of thinking and planning, and then a lot more hours to make careful bends and cuts. Now that everything is in place, I'm delighted to find that it came out exactly as hoped, with plenty of clearance under the mainsail and forward of where the main sheet will be when on a run. Frame is made of 2 bows of 7/8 SS tubing with 10" radius bends as well as roughly 7 degrees of "crown" in the center of each bow to help shed water to either side.

 

Here's a few pics. It'll probably be awhile before I save up enough for the next step, which is to get the Sunbrella fabric and find an experienced sewer who can do the sewing. Also, I still need to decide on a tensioning device (traditional rear straps, or perhaps support struts) to hold the dodger up.

 

 

[Hirilonde]

 It'll probably be awhile before I save up enough for the next step, which is to get the Sunbrella fabric and find an experienced sewer who can do the sewing.

You might want to find the person who is sewing first.  They might also become the supplier of material.

 

I think you got the shape right on.  As much as the comfort is appealing, the dodger must not compromise sailing or interfere with the process!

[Gordy Hill]

Windows Wes. Think windows that open to screening. Ventilation is everything.

[wkisting]

I agree Gordy. Windows will definitely be part of the design. I'd like as much of the front of the dodger to be see-through as possible. My hope--after I talk with someone more experienced with sewing--is that it will be possible to make the windows as removable velcro inserts. That way the windows can be removed for storage (to help them last longer), for ventilation (in the warmer months), and for easy replacement (since they'll likely wear out faster than the rest of the dodger. Then I'll make screens that can velcro into the same place, since eventually I want to make an extender that zips onto the rear of the dodger and covers the rest of the cockpit to form a cockpit tent for occasional nights of camping out on the water.

 

Dave, I think you're right about finding the tailor first. I'll probably call around to canvas shops in the area. I know a great one back in my hometown of Dubuque, IA, but that's too far away and I think it's essential that whoever does the sewing have direct access to the boat. Now that the frame is done right, the tight fit of the fabric will be the most crucial part of ending up with a good-looking, functional dodger. I'm sure whoever does the sewing will have input about how/where to get the materials, and they might even do it for a little less if we're also buying the fabric from them.

 

I lost exact track, but I have about $150 - $190 invested so far. If we can buy the fabric and have it sewn up for $300 or less, that will put the total costs around $500--well under the cheapest $850 estimate that professional canvas shops quoted us for doing the entire job. And we'll end up with a sturdy dodger built of top-grade materials.

[Dnjost]

that stainless cover on the stem is gorgeous.  could you take a close up of how you mounted the Ubolt through it?  I would love to do this on my CS17 as it would certainly beautify this area.  

[Gordy Hill]

Wes,

I don't think you'll like Velcro. I didn't.  

My front window had canvas that unzipped to expose window that unzipped to expose screen that unzipped to allow one to serve the anchor etc. from inside the boat. All that zipping was very easy and worth the trouble. I only had zippers on three sides of each window/screen, but if you had a zipper go around all four sides it would be easy to replace the screen.

I had Velcro on screen that covered the whole aft wall of the tent. It was a real pain putting it together neatly. Little critters always found their way in till I started spraying all edges with Off every nite.

[wkisting]

That's good input, Gordy, thanks! Someone else gave me similar advice when I started the project last year, I just forgot it. But zippers probably would be better, possibly more durable, and certainly easier to get a consistent tautness in the fabric.

[MisterMoon]

Wkisting, where did you source your tubing?

[wkisting]

I got the tubing on Amazon from the seller/brand "Small Parts." I used 304 stainless, but they sell 316 also if you want true "marine grade." The 304 is cheaper and for this application will probably outlast me.I think this link will take you to the exact tubing (7/8" diameter, 0.49" wall thickness, etc.) that I used: http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Seamless-Tubing-Length/dp/B004XN8WWS/ref=cm_cr_pr_orig_subj

 

I also ordered about 3 feet of their 3/4" o.d. tubing to make 6" long splines to join my various pieces of 7/8 tubing into a complete bow.The prices were a bit lower back when I ordered, but that was quite some time ago and I seem to recall getting a special deal somehow... I think I've spent about $100 in stainless tubing, about $60 in (clearance-priced) bimini fittings, and a little more to build a tubing bender (for which the only real expense was a special router bit).

[wkisting]

that stainless cover on the stem is gorgeous.  could you take a close up of how you mounted the Ubolt through it?  I would love to do this on my CS17 as it would certainly beautify this area.  

David, I'm sorry I completely overlooked your earlier question. The stem cover on our CS20 is made from a 6-foot length of 3/4" stainless half-round. I made a cardboard template of the bow profile, then took it and the stainless to a small metal fabrication shop to have it rolled to the correct (approximate) curvature to match the bow. AFTER it was rolled to shape, then I drilled and countersunk holes for the fasteners. However, since I knew I was going to use the U-bolt, I skipped a fastener hole or two and instead machined two flats for the u-bolt base to land against, plus holes to pass the threaded ends through the stem for secure thru-bolting.I snapped this picture to help you see what it looks like up close. It's tricky to photograph on the trailer with the winch stand in the way. This pic is shot at an upward looking angle (from slightly below the U-bolt).

 

[Edit to add: If you try something like this, it is imperative to roll the stainless to the correct bow curvature first, THEN drill fastener holes. If you drill the fastener holes first, the stainless won't bend evenly and will "kink" at each of the holes.]

[ecgossett]

Guys take a look at the www.manart-hirsch.com catalog (Jenn and I still order most of our stuff through them for jobs we do in WA). Usually with wholesale we paid $2 a foot in twenty foot sections of stainless. Keep in mind to order from them you have to set up a business account, which requires other documentation from your state. It might be worth getting a bunch of small boat builders together and starting a COOP for buying west marine and other parts from companies for good prices. M-H also has things like thin plastic washers to put between SS screws/bolts and the aluminum surface you might be attaching something to.

 

The catalog is great to look through and read descriptions of various materials and what they can be used for, zippers are very inexpensive; for prices you have to call everytime as they constantly change. One dodger we did for a boat in GA used flexiable plastic tracking on the frame, and bolt rope/luff attached around window to slide in; then it had a couple of snapps on side/middle to hold in place (the whole window was side ways tear drop type shape).

 

Check out http://marinefabricatormag.com/ for spec guide, how to articles, and MOST IMPORTANT the http://marinefabricatormag.com/resources/timestandards Time standards, that gives you a resource when getting bids to know if the "professional" is over charging  you for the job. On our invoices materials are always at wholesale with shipping included, then a seperate line item for GAS (transportation back and forth to jobsite), and then a line entry for time. Occasionally depending upon shipyard or marina, we had a special tax item to pay between 5-20% of money to be able to work there.

 

Some places quotes have a per foot or yard type price, and you never see hours, this lets the fabricator charge a high amount per hour. Something else you guys might do it order a sample of "Coast Guard" fabric and Sunbrella. CG is actually made by same company and actually intended for marine use, but is just slightly heavier and more wear resistant. What usually happens is everyone wants the known name of Sunbrella, so fabricators order the cheaper non name CG then put sunbrella tags (you can actually order them), on the non-name brand.