paxtonm Posted April 2, 2012 Posted April 2, 2012 Got the Vardo frame pretty close to going off the strongback, and she's a beauty, if I do say so myself. In Jeff's book, he mentions adding two beams parallel to the deck beam between the frames just behind the cockpit, for a stronger perch for sitting on the rear deck. I'm inclined to do that, even though his frame patterns do not indicate them. From past experience, during entry/exit and rescues, that area of the boat needs a little extra stiffness. Have any of you done likewise? Any reasons not to? Thanks, Mark Quote
Hirilonde Posted April 2, 2012 Posted April 2, 2012 I added them to my Curlew. I couldn't see any reason not to, that is why I did it. Just make sure that the notches you add do not go so deep into the frame as to break the 1" rule for material left under them. I don't know the projections of these added mini deck stringers. But I know that I wish I made my mini fore deck stringers a little longer so that the forward end of them projected below the surface of the skin and faded away instead of telegraphing where they ended. It isn't a big deal, but it would have looked a little nicer. Quote
P Doug (WA) Posted April 2, 2012 Posted April 2, 2012 Likewise on my Curlew. I'm pretty sure Jeff would have left enough frame in that area in his plans to allow for it. If not, I'd be tempted to cut the notches as deep as I could ( and still maintain the 1" rule) and then notch the stringers a little to make them sit at the right height. Quote
Hirilonde Posted April 2, 2012 Posted April 2, 2012 Good idea to rabbet the short stringers a little if needed to avoid cutting the frame notch too deep. This would not be a good idea for full length stringers as it would mess with the fairness of the bend and possible create a weak point. But for these short stringers which work together the slight loss of strength would be inconsequential and certainly better than a notch too deep in the frame. Quote
paxtonm Posted April 3, 2012 Author Posted April 3, 2012 Thanks. Not a lot of extra wood in the frames, but by taking two short lengths of scrap stringer, mortising them a bit and cutting SHALLOW slots in the frame, I should be fine. I'm mounting the stringers with the long dimension parallel to the deck, and they seem plenty strong. Less material to cut away that way, and a bit more to sit on. Quote
Kudzu Posted April 3, 2012 Posted April 3, 2012 I have cut the stringers 3/4" thick before. Just be sure and use the T-shirt method and check to see how it looks. Keep in mind It's not that big a deal to replace a frame now. Much easier than after it is skinned. BTW, I have started leaving a center strip in the frame now that runs from keel to deck beam. I had this frame in my Long Shot break. well actually it didn't break it just collapsed but stayed together. I was able to cut a piece and wedge it between the keel and deck beam. Quote
paxtonm Posted April 3, 2012 Author Posted April 3, 2012 That is how you drew the frame in my plans, Jeff. Seems really strong. Quote
Kudzu Posted April 3, 2012 Posted April 3, 2012 I had to go back and look but the plans never included the beams so I am sure there isn't enough space for them as drawn. Quote
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