Outer stem material

[bentg]

I've experimented with different materials for outer stems, but haven't arrived at one I'm happy with so far. I've used cedar that was steamed and bent into shape, but it gets so noodly that it folds a bit. And cedar is too soft for what I'm hoping for. I've also steamed a hardwood, which works well enough I suppose.

But I keep thinking there is some modern material like PVC or hdpe that is waiting out there, ready to use. It would need to be durable, a decent color, and flexible enough to take the bends without cracking or noodling.

Anyone have any ideas, or material you have used that you recommend?

[woodman]

I was going to rip down some nylon strips...

[Kudzu]

Plastic/nylon/hdpe(??) cutting boards.

A bit ugly but very effective and dirt cheap.

[Hirilonde]

It will cost a bit, but brass half oval is used on dinghies a lot. Bronze if you can find it is better.

For you terminology geeks it is a keel guard or keel chafe strip. Or if it is just on the stem a stem guard or chafe strip. A stem is structural and an integral part of the boat.

[bentg]

Hirilonde, that's a good price from Jamestown Distributor that you posted there. My only hesitation about brass is the weight it adds. FYI, on another forum a member talked about varnishing the brass to keep it from turning green, a good idea.

[Hirilonde]

Hirilonde, that's a good price from Jamestown Distributor that you posted there. My only hesitation about brass is the weight it adds.

It doesn't add much weight really. You can also get flat stock and hallow oval if you really want to keep it ultra-light.

FYI, on another forum a member talked about varnishing the brass to keep it from turning green, a good idea.

I find that doesn't work well at all, even for decorative stuff that gets no wear at all. The finish breaks down some where on the item and moisture gets under it and creeps. The stain is far worse looking than the natural patina you get just leaving it alone. Now you have to sand it all off and polish the piece and start over. Its like trying to petrify wood to keep it looking good for ages with no maintenance. It just doesn't work. I am making a wooden one. I know it will get abused. And if it gets so worn that I care I will make another, or break down and make a brass or bronze one. I will let it turn green. I like green

We build these boats. They will be used and scuffed and eventually damaged. Then we will fix them. If we wanted bullet proof we would buy a tupperware kayak.

[Kudzu]

We build these boats. They will be used and scuffed and eventually damaged. Then we will fix them. If we wanted bullet proof we would buy a tupperware kayak.

What a profound statement! I think I am going to steal this as my new signature line! I love it!!

As for the rub strips, I totally agree with Dave. Brass is just going to add a couple of ounces maybe, you will never notice the weight.

Wood works well, I just found they get nasty looking after a while. I am not know for babying my boats, I use them but I don't abuse them. If I have a rub strip on a boat I think nothing of running the bow on the concrete boat ramp, rocks, sand whatever. Mine get skinned up pretty good and my wood ones started to look pretty shabby. I looked at brass but decided it would probably get skinned up with me.

I discovered cutting boards from a young friend that rides skate boards when he asked me to help him some sliding gloves. Their cheap, easy to machine and I can find them locally so that now what I use. They tend to be butt ugly but very durable. Any of these will work just fine.

Just make sure you round the edges and shape them a little. Otherwise the flat surface will lift water upward and you get this highly annoying gurgle at the bow. I never realized just how quite a kayak was till I had to listen to that darn gurgling! I now shape those a little bit to prevent that..