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bentg

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  1. By Tung Oil, are you referring to the Watco Danish Oil? Dont' use that, it's for inside the house (or boat) only, out of the weather. If you are referring to something else called Tung Oil, it should work fine, though different Tung Oils have all sorts of different things in them.
  2. Corey's goop is light amber colored, probably very similar to Dura Tuff, but very hard to apply without drips, sags, etc
  3. And now to advance your education on oil finish just a bit: the Watco Danish Oil is wonderful, but it is for interior applications. You should get the Watco Teak Oil instead, which is truly wonderful stuff.
  4. Thanks, Jeff, I hadn't looked hard at the Firefly but I will now.
  5. Jeff, I need a recommendation from you. I have a client who paddles a very nice, but somewhat heavy Impex Force Cat 4 right now which has decent speed and very good behavior in all-around conditions. The Impex is 18 feet long LOA. He is an older man but an excellent paddler with rolling skills. He doesn't race. He wants a lighter boat from me (Skin on Frame to the rescue!), and I'm trying to decide which of your designs to use. I'm leaning toward the Long Shot, partly because I want one myself. Is that the way I should go, or do you have another suggestion? Any other questions you need answered?
  6. Thanks, woodman, that is one of mine. It is sold, but I'm about to start another if anyone is in the market.
  7. Watco Danish oil is what I use.
  8. Hirilonde, that's a good price from Jamestown Distributor that you posted there. My only hesitation about brass is the weight it adds. FYI, on another forum a member talked about varnishing the brass to keep it from turning green, a good idea.
  9. I've experimented with different materials for outer stems, but haven't arrived at one I'm happy with so far. I've used cedar that was steamed and bent into shape, but it gets so noodly that it folds a bit. And cedar is too soft for what I'm hoping for. I've also steamed a hardwood, which works well enough I suppose. But I keep thinking there is some modern material like PVC or hdpe that is waiting out there, ready to use. It would need to be durable, a decent color, and flexible enough to take the bends without cracking or noodling. Anyone have any ideas, or material you have used that you recommend?
  10. Sold last week, but I will be building another in the fall. If you would like to claim it, contact me.
  11. I like that mechanical seal idea, much like clamping the deck skin between layers of the combing. I hope you will keep reporting on the project, I would love to make one of my boats into a "pedal kayak".
  12. Very nice! I'm thinking about putting together a few of these for my kids, too. How does he like it so far?
  13. Ravenswood 15 skin-on-frame kayak . . . . . $975 This boat is built to last by Tidewater Small Craft, a boat shop in Williamsburg (www.tidewatersmallcraft.com), and designed by Jeff at Kudzucraft. The frame is marine fir and cedar, covered with 12 oz ballistic nylon for a tough exterior. The boat was then coated with a 2-part urethane finish which saturates the skin and makes the skin VERY durable. Last of all, a one-part polyurethane top coat in yellow and flat white gives the boat some good looks. Weighing in at 34 lbs, you can pick it up at the end of the day and put it on your car without a lift or a friend. And for a 15 foot boat, it moves out and cruises. It placed second in the Recreational Kayak division of the 2011 round-Jamestown Island race, second only to another TSC boat, the Arrow 14. Over 10 miles, the boat averaged 4.5 mph, quite good for a moderate-length boat! HYDROSTATS All figures based on a 250 lb total displacement Length over all * 15 foot 6 inches * Beam overall * 24 inches Design draft 4.5 inches at 250 lbs Waterline length 14 feet 2.5 inches"; * Waterline beam 21.5 inches"; Prismatic coefficient 0.5486 * Stability Factor 95 Max displacement 325 lbs
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