Maria CS20 104 Posted May 9, 2011 Posted May 9, 2011 Tom, Ray, and ALL. I just fiiiiiiiinished the hull paint. Four coats of marine epoxy, took time to figure out now I'm done I are a real beginner boat painter. I read that I could polish it out with 600 grit wet sand paper. What does this do? Polish the paint? Dull the paint? I do not have a clue. When done, if this is the next biggie to finish the finish.........as it were... do I wax the hull with turtle wax, blue coral, mothers? I am truly curious not crazy. The finish currently has a slight orange peel effect, does not bother me too much, kind of appppppeeling looking. Where I had the material thin enough, not much of the peel effect happened, but this is not in many places. It sure is pretty in antique white. Got the color idea from that gent in the Pacific North West that made the beautiful CS 17 boat with faux interior deck and green trim, solid fir masts and hand made fittings. Man that is a beauty of a boat. If I should just move forward and wax it up the next step, I think, will be to install the brass keel plate per my last post. I have a bit of time on my hands but Mom says I gottsa git this dun! She is right we are at three years since we pulled the hull in and were amazzzzzzed at the result. Took a year off to work in Maine, beautiful place, far far far away. Still need rudder hardware to put it together but that is a side project along with the center board which if you recall, both are 80% complete. But I bet a lot of boats get to 80% complete and then rot..........this will not happen here, I have a group of young folks watching 15 to 26 and they expect progress....and they press. I think Mom paid them off. We have 30 or more local kids, young adults and older adults (45 plus) following progress and checking in, My 88 year old mother in law is my greatest fan and critic, but great encourager. My favorite "Meaness" as I call her, with agreement from my beautiful wife of 29 plus years. Son Pat graduates from University, two weeks from now a computer scientist and will work for HP starting in early June. Mom and I went to Japan to see our grand boys (4 and 2), saw our daughter and son in law too, he is in the Navy there, I did an few off the cuff Nuclear training courses for some Navy folks as I were a Navy Nuke and have Nuke and EE degree..what a pain, wish the media would speak English and the truth about once a month but first they need to be educated and willing to learn, maybe we ought to require each of the talking heads to build a boat, by themselves, get some experience in patience and persistence and they might learn to investigate and really report. Graham and Carly, my best to your and yours, especially one submariner to another............ Blessings to ALL Jim Quote
Ray Frechette Jr Posted May 9, 2011 Posted May 9, 2011 I would suggest leaving the paint alone and finish out the boat and go sailing. If the paint bugs you in the future you will have plenty of time to wet sand it later. Quote
hokeyhydro Posted May 10, 2011 Posted May 10, 2011 I agree with Ray - get `er done and get `er wet! Meanwhile, dozens should chime in with various theories on hydrodynamic laminar flow separation related to slickness or not of bottom finish and speed. On my outboard race boats our motto was, 60 grit, time to quit! Quote
Tom Lathrop Posted May 10, 2011 Posted May 10, 2011 There's a reason golf balls aren't smooth... And if you boat is shaped like a golf ball, dimples are recommended. Forget the sandpaper and especially 600 grit and go sailing like the others advise. That kind of stuff is for the anal retentive and reserved for the top flight competitive bunch. Even for them it is more just a way to work of pre-race jitters. Quote
PAR Posted May 10, 2011 Posted May 10, 2011 600 grit is still sanding, not polishing. You have to get well over 1,000 grit to get into the polishing arena. A highly smoothed finish, will faithfully reflect every subtle imperfection you have, so only do this if you have a truly fair and smooth hull. If it's anything less, then you're much better off having the light reflected on a surface with lots of little bumps, which will help hide these imperfections. Besides, it will probably help laminar flow a tad. Quote
Maria CS20 104 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Posted May 10, 2011 THANK YOU ALL for the encouragement to move forward, sometimes reading stuff can get a fella behind and too focused on the unimportant. It is imperfect and beautiful and ours. I installed the brass keel strip and it looks so cool, not perfect, just cool. one small misalignment that I'll file the edges on and tomorrow I will sand with 220 and seal with a thin coat of epoxy. Navy folks can't resist bright brass I guess even though it will get marred up on the oyster shoals and gravel, bad habit of mine. Tomorrow after I skin this cat with epoxy on the screws I'll get underneath and clean up the forward and aft sections of the cockpit. I need to glass the underside of the forward seat against the side tanks and paint before I turn. Bought some oil base outside paint for doing the cover coat and will use on the inside of the aft tank as well to ensure water resistant coverage of the interior. Then I will turn. I think I need to let the hull cure a bit more for a few days setting in the sun. Getting hot and bright in Louisiana and I'd like to ensure the paint is hard enough to turn without scaring or cutting up. Thanks again for the advice, no polishing or buffing, but should I wax it up a bit? Jim Quote
Ray Frechette Jr Posted May 10, 2011 Posted May 10, 2011 I doubt I could ever be convinced to paint the inside of seat tanks or under seat tops on an boat I would own. The epoxy will be plenty waterproof itself. the only reason to paint is to provide UV resistance and those areas just are not going to see UV exposure. Also it is nice to be able to see right through that waterproof coating to see what the wood looks like underneath as it will let you know if it is hurting from waterincursion long before damage is done.. Quote
Tom Lathrop Posted May 11, 2011 Posted May 11, 2011 Wax or not? Actually wax is the opposite of what most experts think of in a wetted low friction surface (think fish slime). Soap is a wetting agent and wax is a non wetting agent where water beads up on. I think that none of us could tell the difference as long as the surface is fair and smooth. Quote
PAR Posted May 14, 2011 Posted May 14, 2011 I too leave lockers and air chambers just encapsulated, though have on many occasions painted the inside of them and for a good reason, to see. It's difficult to see things in the back corner of a brightly finished locker that doesn't have a light in it or ambient light bouncing around inside it. Fore peak lockers are notorious for this and lots of stuff gets tossed in them. Lazarettes, lockers and other spaces, if just left in a bright finish, particularly some of the darker species, can leave the area useless in mid day without a flash light. This is where a few coats of bright white can be effective. Quote
Maria CS20 104 Posted June 3, 2011 Author Posted June 3, 2011 I finally met a guy that has used MoPoxy on a number of wooden boats and fiberglass boats. He told me to mix according to the instructions, refrigerate for the 30 minutes to activate and then thin slightly with MoPoxy thinner to encourage thinning of the coat while laying on and having someone behind me hitting it with a heat gun to tighten the surface as it got tacky and it would cure like glass. I told him I am sticking with the golf ball divot theory where the increased surface area of the orange peel reduces laminar flow, thus increasing the tornadic flow vortex at the micro level and thus turbo boosting the hurricane properties of micro particles that tend to want to stick to the hull at low and moderate speeds of 5 to 8 knots. Now these physical properties seem to have been designed into these boats, by the master of speed. These design properties are allowing simple, inexperienced builders like myself, to take advantage of the superior deigns of his boats. Although the designer does not advertise this unique property and the special result that usually occur as the result of his designs, which compensate for the inadequacies of his rookie builders, it works. We do not want to let the secret out as B&B builders, since the federal government would probably require a special EPA permit for use of these vessels because of the unusual stirring of the surface waters by fast moving light vessels which might disturb the mating patterns of breeding surface plankton and potential emmmmmmbarressment to local dolphin populations, because of there speed, along the Florida gulf cost during certain races. It does appear, although not documented experimentally, that B&B boats do in fact cause some consternation among heavier hulled builders when they outrun them in light to moderate winds. (See Comments by other posters where they outran some heavies and got raving reviews). I do believe that there are other considerations to selecting these boats over others as a builder of a CS 20, the light weight is less affected by solar winds, magnetic variations caused by solar flares and lunar gravitational pull during the harvest moon. Simple physics tells us that with every cause there is an effect and a great God allows those that test the seas on hand crafted boats SHALL enjoy the gift of His winds and waves. Stand by for the next exposition on nuclear power contamination from the reactors of the 1940's and the great Under Toads of the Pacific North West at the mouth of the Columbia River. Blessings to ALL Jim Quote
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