p22 side & deck ply joints

[philmackey]

Hi Everyone

I received my p22 plans some weeks ago - still need to build shed big enough to build my princess

but I like to start building the hull - I have attached some pics of join method I feel would be much

stronger than a butt join and I can do this join very easily on my table saw using a daddo blade set...

I can't see what I have attached so I hope the are ok

Looking forward to the journey

Kind regards

Phil Mackey - Gippsland Lakes - Victoria Australia

PS Is Anthony another australian builder still out there???

Love to hear if about a quick way to down size photos and attach????

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[Peter HK]

Hi Phil

In answer to your questions

I have attached some pics of join method I feel would be much

stronger than a butt join and I can do this join very easily on my table saw using a daddo blade set...

I'll offer my opinion ...I don't think this would be any stronger than a standard fibreglassed butt joint (I presume you intend to glass either side). All it does is shift the joint into two halves- each veneer is still not connected except at 90 degrees. My 2 cents worth is to spend a few hours with some scrap ply and learn to scarph it - not hard to do, elegant and strong. As always you can test the theory by doing a standard fibreglassed butt, your joint, a scarphed joint and let them set and then apply "destructive testing" as my brother the engineer describes it and see which one fails first.

Love to hear if about a quick way to down size photos and attach????

Easy Thumbnails is a simple free program to reduce photos to a suitable size

Cheers

Peter HK (in Brisbane)

[PeterP]

I agree, sliding full sheets of ply across the table saw may actually turn out to be more work for a poorer result than stacking ten sheets and scarphing them. The more the merrier in this case. Also, your e-mail program will downsize your pictures and you can send them to yourself then drag the attachments to your posts. Not an elegant way to do it - I agree- but you'll make do with what you've got. PeterP

[PAR]

Use the Payson butt joint described in the plans, because the one you've shown has two potential stress riser in it. A modified version of the Payson butt joint, hollows out a slight depression on each side of the butt and this shallow is where the fabric and thickened epoxy live, when faired up nice and smooth. This modified version of the joint can be preformed so you have pretty much zero fairing needed (it takes practice) after you pull it off the jig.

[Scott Dufour]

And if you've got a random orbital sander, the butt join described in the plans in more than adequate: it breaks outside the fiberglass join.  I find them easy to do.

[PAR]

This is the modified Payson butt joint.

The regular butt joint described in the plans is the same deal, but isn't hollowed out, leaving a bump on the surface to be faired.

As you can see the top joint has been back cut slightly. This permits the end grain to be covered in goo. Next down the one side of the seam has been hollowed out, next it's filled and the last image of this butt joint shows it done on both sides.

[philmackey]

Hi everyone

Thank you so much for all your comments re the butt joint - I think I feel better about the modified parson joint that Par suggests given my inexperience with producing accurate scarp joints

Tried to print it out for reference but could not do so????

Talk again soon

Kind regards

Phil Mackey

[PAR]

Send me an email Phil, I'll send you a copy.