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Posted

I thought I might stop by and say hello. I have all my epoxy and glass and am only $40 shy of the funds needed to go pick up my plywood order (it is too far to drive for a partial order so I will have to wait another week or so).  I have been selling every toy that is collecting dust in my shop to raise funds.

I sleep with my plans next to the bed and have been studying them every chance that I get.

Much to my surprise (not that I didn't have faith in Graham, but before I bought the plans and looked at the idea in depth I was not sold on the the whole concept)  I am seeing the great ingenuity that went into the mast design; inexpensive, light, and easily obtained. I have two hang ups with the system that I am on the fence about, a sail track and anodized aluminum. Has anyone check on the feasibility of using Dywer's 2" round mast with integral track? I am guessing it maybe too light to be used unstayed but does the track add enough strength to overcome the 2" diameter, they do not advertise the wall thickness. Just wondering if anyone has check into this. Like I said I am planning on using the stock plan but I have time to kill until my ship (plywood) comes in. 

I can't wait to get started and I am planning on doing some of the build at the Mid America boat show here in Cleveland in January. Free heat in a Great Lakes winter is nothing to turn your nose up at. The Cleveland Amateur Boat Builders Society has been building and displaying boats at the local show for over thirty years. Meg will have her skin on frame kayak on display also if she quits doing home work and heads out to the shop to finish up the wood trim pieces.

Dreaming of warmer days

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I just thought I would stop in and say hey,

Jim


Posted

I can't wait to get started and I am planning on doing some of the build at the Mid America boat show here in Cleveland in January. 

Hi Gordy,

Cueing Jeopardy music, Carnac says "I'll take Who is in Cleveland for 300, Alex..."

:-P

LOLs,

pat.

post-1948-129497692776_thumb.jpg

Posted

The extruded mast sections, from Dywer and others will be stiffer in one dimension so the sail will never shape properly, nor spill wind properly.

I used a aluminum lower and a birdsmouth wooden upper section with very good results last summer on a CS-17. A good mix of flexibility, economy, looks (no steps) and build difficulty. Of course it has tracks. On the main the lower section was 12' 8" so I could use 8' upper sections, with 12" of bury. The mizzen was similar.

Posted
I used a aluminum lower and a birdsmouth wooden upper section with very good results last summer on a CS-17. A good mix of flexibility, economy, looks (no steps) and build difficulty. Of course it has tracks. On the main the lower section was 12' 8" so I could use 8' upper sections, with 12" of bury. The mizzen was similar.

PAR,

Would be interested to hear/see the details of your "no steps" joint for the mast track spars you refer to above.

Thx,

Posted

When using the two aluminum tubing lower sections, capped with a wooden upper section, which is one of the mast construction options on the plans, you have a step at the transition of the lower tube to the next, though the wooden tube doesn't. Aesthetically, I found this objectionable, so I lengthened the lower tube to take advantage of 8' clear white spruce stock I had on hand. With 12" of bury in the top of the lower section I was able to make economical use of 24' sections of tubing. Of course the upper section was birdsmouth.

The track wasn't affected by this construction decision, as the joint from aluminum to wood was smooth and continuous. on the wooden upper section, I tapered from the OD of the aluminum tube to the masthead dimension on all sides except the track side. This asymmetric taper permitted the track to lay down over the joint and didn't pull any shape out of the upper portion of the sail. The plans show a small wooden ramp made at the joint of the aluminum tubes (two tube method), to permit the track to lay down nice. Track alignment has to be pretty good or the slides will bind.

Posted
on the wooden upper section, I tapered from the OD of the aluminum tube to the masthead dimension on all sides except the track side. This asymmetric taper permitted the track to lay down over the joint and didn't pull any shape out of the upper portion of the sail.

With the asymmetric taper (nice) -- did you find that when gluing up the birdsmouth you needed to pull the straight side (the track side) against a straight edge of some kind to force it to stay straight until the epoxy set up?

Thanks,

 

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