Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


tom151 last won the day on October 3 2014

tom151 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About tom151

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/07/1951

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Salem, Mass
  1. Dear Action Tiger... what is this boat design shown in your post
  2. Another alternative sail plan - this four sail reaching looks very close winded too, From the board of Roger Martin...
  3. If memory serves, always a risk with mine, Graham described his setup for the spinnaker as taking the spinn halyard to the windward rail amidships, as adequate for providing the necessary mast support. That may be incorrect, or he may have refined it, but it's my memory of it. wwbaginski -- As far as taking the pole to windward,.. the simple setup on Gougeon's 'Hot Canary' (an i550) might work sweetly on a B&B design as well.
  4. If you haven't tried it, try tenting the parts separately with plastic and sticking a lighted bulb under for generating heat. Has worked for me during winter projects.
  5. Let me nit-pick a little... As you know, water will really pool up between the siderails ahead of the hatches in a heavy rain (and much more so during trailering) , consider adding "serious" limber holes in the side rails ahead of the coaming at the front of the trench (almost as large as typical handrails). With the sliding sequence of hatches shown in the sketches (e.g. aft-most in the top-most position... fwd-most in the bottom position) there ends up being three (3) sweeper strips vulnerable to leaking. If you reverse that so the aft-most section is on the lowest track (and slide
  6. Docpal, Kudos to who ever designed the cabin... would love to see more, do you have a blog or pics anywhere of the interior and the cockpit? Cabin style is best by far of all the ones I've seen - but I'm a throwback to the old boats for style (but not the construction ). Notch the transom and be done with it. Cheers, TomH
  7. Docpal, Boat looks great! In that video... looks like lots of lee helm while going straight. What's going on there? Centerboard? TomH
  8. Docpal, Thanks very much for the details - pics look good. What design is that boat? Looks familiar - really like the cabin style Again, thanks, TomH
  9. Docpal, Very interested in getting storage in the area - I'm from Massachusetts - and need a good storage spot to keep the boat there when not sailing. If you'd be so kind as to share the name & contact info of the one you found - and the monthly charges. Also, if anyone else has leads for good, economical, and secure storage... please chime in Thanks a lot TomH .
  10. Google is your friend 2014 archipelago rally http://newenglandboating.com/news/2014-archipelago-rally-set-for-nov-1-in-westerly-ri.html
  11. Great for fillets or other structural uses... not so much for fairing. It's way too hard to sand when you're fairing
  12. I find it useful to estimate the amount of resin to mix by planning on a 50/50 ratio of glass to epoxy in the finished product. Use the weight per sq yard of the glass you're using and multiply by the yards of glass you're doing (for each session) - that should approximate the total amount of epoxy you need to use. If I remember (no guarantee, here) I'd mix half of that amount and spread it on the surface then roll the precut glass onto the surface and squeegee it until the glass shows clear - then apply the remaining epoxy after the glass is properly positioned and smoothed with the i
  13. Not in any order... For sheer strips, gunwales, rub rails, etc you will discover that in many cases they are actually bent/curved in two dimensions -- which can be a surprise you if you're not ready for it. For boats with lots of sheer curve (in profile view) it can be very difficult to laminate the beam in advance of attaching it to the boat and have any hope of getting it properly/easily fit to the hull. I tend to choose to do each lamination individually - directly onto the boat. And yes, as mentioned in a post above, do both sides at the same time. Adding these features after t
  14. Not "hard" to do, but not as simple as simply "using conventional booms" - which would not replace all of the functionality of the sprit it seems. If you want the boat to be able to sail properly that is. The sprit in essence replaces the boom, the boom vang, and not unimportantly the (expensive?) multipart mainsheet tackle to a large extent. That's a substantial amount of "related" gear that needs to be added in order to fully replace the lowly sprit Some of that can be minimized if you wish to add circular mainsheet tracks and the related control lines.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.