Palolo Hawaii

I think the technical maritime breakfast term for a PDR is actually a Cereal Box Boat, but I'm not going to correct the coasties.

We'll done! Nice to read your AAR on the leg. So what did the Canadian Coast Guard say? Was it something about "small boots* are not ideal" in bad weather? * boots...boats, same to some.

Hi Don Not to stray too far off-topic or bore the others: I have an old 110 keel (as if there are "new ones" laying around, right)--the hull project was delayed by the arrival of kids, etc. but that or an EC22 are back on the burner...sent you a PM with the history of the 110 project. Cheers, Pat.

Hmmm. I always thought that mere consumption of beers didn't affect displacement as much as the rate of discharge over the side* after being "processed" by the crew? My cooler-to-belly consumption merely increases righting moment since the cooler is on centerline and I'm on the gun'l; just shifting the ballast to where it is more useful, so to speak. This is how I explain the increase in speed, but more erratic wake as the afternoon goes on. *12 miles off-shore, of course.

The WSJ Magazine ran an article about wooden boats built by Lowell's boats in Amesbury MA. "Buying a Lowell

Here's something different. The smallest one of these might work? http://www.ronstan.com/marine/range.asp?RnID=272 Video of a big version: http://www.ronstan.com/info/airarch_video.asp Or conceptually, making a tarp that accepts a few tent-poles that fit in to oarlocks to provide an arch might be one direction to go in.

I know a bunch of you are in the Carolinas, and thought I'd share this... So this is how the locals raise a mast in Oriental: http://towndock.net/news/mast-raising-from-the-bridge?pg=1 :shock: :???: I wonder if his rig will still be up after Earl moves through the area.

WB214 (May/June 2010, page 46ish) has a small piece on a catboat mast with carbon tapes & rods laminated to the inner face of the staves. Seemed to be successful in their comparison test with uncarbon'ed birdsmouth masts.

Time for a Kona Longboard, or two... They do take the ache away. Cheers, and congratulations on the final-strip. :-D

Nope, no erster beds here... just sandy/gravelly beaches and occasionally getting hung up on an old reef flat. If the bottom's that bad, I agree, I'd cover everything, probably twice. Luckily I don't have to intentionally haul a small boat up on that kind of bottom. I suppose I didn't express my thought well enough, and might try again: just like my knees, toes and elbows, I have noticed that my hulls' forefoot and chines have taken more than their fare of scrapes, compared to anywhere else on the hull, hence I'd likely concentrate the abrasion resistance initiatives in those areas. Especially if oysters are on the menu. pat.

Since most (emphasis on "most") abrasion occurs on the chines and keel strip, wouldn't a strip of kevlar felt (not cloth) along the forefoot/keel and some strips of extra glass or xynole along the chines offer the most protection, and being in strip form, offer good bang-for-the-buck, no pun indented. Just curious why you'd choose to sheath the flat areas more than the angles, where wear is far more concentrated. For sandy beaches, I've had to deal with paint/finish scratches on the flat areas, but nothing that extra cloth of any sort would have prevented. It is the chines and keel/forefoot that have taken the brunt of boat--to-land meetings, especially on coral and gravel. Good luck finding the solution (i'm following along and taking notes...) :smile: pat.

Something like this, as used on a jib by Gary Hoyt: http://www.alerionexp.com/JibBoom.html ? I've also had experience on an experimental 65' boat that had its boom mounted to a short stump or pedestal with upper and lower mounting points, so a boom vang was not needed. It needed the boom mounted like that since the rig was an A-frame, and the main sail's roller furler was attached between the A's apex and the top of that pedestal. Reefing the main was not great for a few reasons, mostly having to do with the sail shape dictated by the batten/leech technology of that time (early 90s). Personal choice: For a small boat of the Escape size, I'd keep the unstayed rig and ditch the boom+roller reeefing in favor of a wishbone and slab-reefing, any day. Like on the Wylie 17. (http://www.wyliecat.com/models/gallery/17/wylie_17_06.html) Good luck in your search, pat

And very interesting. I can see how that bulbous underwater shape required the use of halved-molds or forms as one couldn't pull that hull shape out of a female mold. Will the hulls be identical so this form can be used for the "outside" of one hull and the "inside" of the opposite hull? How many rowing stations will it have, and which class will it be in for the EC? Aloha, pat.

And another way is if you added a trapeze; you'd be dry and cozy out on the wire, while going quicker... ...but them olde purists would be hurling rocks at the idea. "git off my lawn and take your trapeze ideas with you... next you'll be talking about foam cored composites, you whippersnapper!" It is how I stayed dry(er) on the 110. The helm would be usually be wet from spray, but I'd be warm and dry out on the wire. Inevitably, I'd make some comment about it and the mainsail would mysteriously "release" and I'd get dunked to windward.

Nice! Here's my (good?) idea: just needs this, since one can't be too far away from "hydration" during the strenuous line retrieval operations... Gimbaled Can Holder: http://marine.snapitproducts.com/product/v003-single-pivoting-drink-holder "Look, I picked up the mooring line without spilling a drop!"