Palolo Hawaii

I think the technical maritime breakfast term for a PDR is actually a Cereal Box Boat, but I'm not going to correct the coasties.

We'll done! Nice to read your AAR on the leg. So what did the Canadian Coast Guard say? Was it something about "small boots* are not ideal" in bad weather? * boots...boats, same to some.

Hi Don Not to stray too far off-topic or bore the others: I have an old 110 keel (as if there are "new ones" laying around, right)--the hull project was delayed by the arrival of kids, etc. but that or an EC22 are back on the burner...sent you a PM with the history of the 110 project. Cheers, Pat.

Hmmm. I always thought that mere consumption of beers didn't affect displacement as much as the rate of discharge over the side* after being "processed" by the crew? My cooler-to-belly consumption merely increases righting moment since the cooler is on centerline and I'm on the gun'l; just shifting the ballast to where it is more useful, so to speak. This is how I explain the increase in speed, but more erratic wake as the afternoon goes on. *12 miles off-shore, of course.

The WSJ Magazine ran an article about wooden boats built by Lowell's boats in Amesbury MA. "Buying a Lowell

Here's something different. The smallest one of these might work? http://www.ronstan.com/marine/range.asp?RnID=272 Video of a big version: http://www.ronstan.com/info/airarch_video.asp Or conceptually, making a tarp that accepts a few tent-poles that fit in to oarlocks to provide an arch might be one direction to go in.

I know a bunch of you are in the Carolinas, and thought I'd share this... So this is how the locals raise a mast in Oriental: http://towndock.net/news/mast-raising-from-the-bridge?pg=1 :shock: :???: I wonder if his rig will still be up after Earl moves through the area.

WB214 (May/June 2010, page 46ish) has a small piece on a catboat mast with carbon tapes & rods laminated to the inner face of the staves. Seemed to be successful in their comparison test with uncarbon'ed birdsmouth masts.

Time for a Kona Longboard, or two... They do take the ache away. Cheers, and congratulations on the final-strip. :-D

Nope, no erster beds here... just sandy/gravelly beaches and occasionally getting hung up on an old reef flat. If the bottom's that bad, I agree, I'd cover everything, probably twice. Luckily I don't have to intentionally haul a small boat up on that kind of bottom. I suppose I didn't express my thought well enough, and might try again: just like my knees, toes and elbows, I have noticed that my hulls' forefoot and chines have taken more than their fare of scrapes, compared to anywhere else on the hull, hence I'd likely concentrate the abrasion resistance initiatives in those areas. Especially if oysters are on the menu. pat.

Since most (emphasis on "most") abrasion occurs on the chines and keel strip, wouldn't a strip of kevlar felt (not cloth) along the forefoot/keel and some strips of extra glass or xynole along the chines offer the most protection, and being in strip form, offer good bang-for-the-buck, no pun indented. Just curious why you'd choose to sheath the flat areas more than the angles, where wear is far more concentrated. For sandy beaches, I've had to deal with paint/finish scratches on the flat areas, but nothing that extra cloth of any sort would have prevented. It is the chines and keel/forefoot that have taken the brunt of boat--to-land meetings, especially on coral and gravel. Good luck finding the solution (i'm following along and taking notes...) :smile: pat.

Something like this, as used on a jib by Gary Hoyt: http://www.alerionexp.com/JibBoom.html ? I've also had experience on an experimental 65' boat that had its boom mounted to a short stump or pedestal with upper and lower mounting points, so a boom vang was not needed. It needed the boom mounted like that since the rig was an A-frame, and the main sail's roller furler was attached between the A's apex and the top of that pedestal. Reefing the main was not great for a few reasons, mostly having to do with the sail shape dictated by the batten/leech technology of that time (early 90s). Personal choice: For a small boat of the Escape size, I'd keep the unstayed rig and ditch the boom+roller reeefing in favor of a wishbone and slab-reefing, any day. Like on the Wylie 17. (http://www.wyliecat.com/models/gallery/17/wylie_17_06.html) Good luck in your search, pat

And very interesting. I can see how that bulbous underwater shape required the use of halved-molds or forms as one couldn't pull that hull shape out of a female mold. Will the hulls be identical so this form can be used for the "outside" of one hull and the "inside" of the opposite hull? How many rowing stations will it have, and which class will it be in for the EC? Aloha, pat.

And another way is if you added a trapeze; you'd be dry and cozy out on the wire, while going quicker... ...but them olde purists would be hurling rocks at the idea. "git off my lawn and take your trapeze ideas with you... next you'll be talking about foam cored composites, you whippersnapper!" It is how I stayed dry(er) on the 110. The helm would be usually be wet from spray, but I'd be warm and dry out on the wire. Inevitably, I'd make some comment about it and the mainsail would mysteriously "release" and I'd get dunked to windward.

Nice! Here's my (good?) idea: just needs this, since one can't be too far away from "hydration" during the strenuous line retrieval operations... Gimbaled Can Holder: http://marine.snapitproducts.com/product/v003-single-pivoting-drink-holder "Look, I picked up the mooring line without spilling a drop!"

Just a little something to acknowledge the winter weather that many of you are experiencing... :grin: I thought it would be a bit of subtle irony to have snowflakes on our two publishing sites here in Hawaii, and after doing ours, it was easy to add the layers to Frank's logo and share it. Happy New Year to you all. pat.

Sorry TomH, Frank just sold it along with his car. I happened to catch the ad on craigslist and saved the photos... Pat.

However, roller furlers don't consume their weight in precious beer or try to get the owner's teenage daughters drunk at the dock BBQ, unlike the foredeck crew on most boats I've been on, so there could be a long-term benefit. But I hear ya'; I'm also not a fan in most cases, but on the OPB Yachts, I actually like roller furling: gives one more time down below to instruct said daughters in the fine art of chute packing... tee hee hee. pat.

Hi Gordy, Cueing Jeopardy music, Carnac says "I'll take Who is in Cleveland for 300, Alex..." :-P LOLs, pat.

To add to PAR's great info; also as the boat heels, the leeward side of the bow (may) exert more force-to-windward on the hull: compounded with the rudder's reduced efficiency and you've got the ingredients for a round-up, even when not off the wind. Caveat: I am not sure what a P19 looks like. I encountered it most on the Int'l 110 with its box-section hull. Heel beyond a certain point and this force from the leeward bow wave was quite noticeable. Sorry if I don't have the technical terms for it, but I have experienced the effect. PAR might be able to explain it properly. Good luck, pat.

You've probably built a small model plane, ship, car or tank that had rubber cement oozing from the joints and misaligned decals... or you are far more skilled than I and actually made it look like the one on the box cover...I inwardly cursed perfectionist kids like you. In any case, here's a chance to take those model building skills to boat building. Just needs a poorly painted mannequin to row it... Source: http://michaeljohansson.com/works/toysrus_dinghy.html

Sharp dinghy. I'm liking the inset dark wood detailing on the thwart and the boom tapered to both ends. So many small craft end up with untapered spars, seeing them even on the small boats is refreshing. The little stuff adds so much. Those sawhorse hydrofoils look like they need some angle-of-attack tuning to generate lift, though. cheers, pat.

Konrad, That field you were in looked familiar. :shock: Why didn't the photographer use a wide angle lens? Aloha, pat.

Those parish priests, sometimes they can come through when you need 'em... who needs to sleep when you can play with your wood in the shop?? :-P

W, My butt-calculator guess is that the track will deform and release a slug before it pulls away from the mast, purely based on the slug directly loading up a small concentrated area of the track/groove, but the track itself being able to spread that load along a longer area of its glued interface with the mast. Using that same unscientific analytic device, I would say that the sail's clew (or the sprit-boom) will show signs of strain (or you'll be reefing/running for cover by then) before a slug pops out of the groove, purely based on the guess that the sail's pulling is concentrated on one corner vs. spread amongst a number of slides along the luff. Can't wait to see your project photos, and of course see the on-the-water evidence/proof of the system's benefits. I guess we just need to wait til June for the icebergs to leave your waters? :-? Docpal: I have to keep Sikaflex in mind more often... I think it would be hilarious to have some hollow core doors in our house affixed without screws of any sort. I'd tell guests that we use steel joists and rare earth magnets to save on screws. :-P My toddler son also thought he'd play monkey and swing from the doorknob of his room, pulling the top hinge screws out of the jamb, so sikaflex will indeed be used soon. Cheers, pat.