Tim Diebert Posted March 1, 2003 Posted March 1, 2003 Buffing? Whatthehellyoutalkin BUFFING? ....man. I'm with Gordy on the too many cleats thing Jake. The midship version could be left off for now...I don't have any there...I tie fenders and such to the stays. You probly won't be using a spring line anyway...who knows? Quote
Guest Ray Frechette the 2nd Posted March 1, 2003 Posted March 1, 2003 Jake, I'll take some pics of the fender lips I have on the side of the boat. Small unobtrusive, in the right place, uncluttered deck. Lot's of horn cleats on deck can be a pain as memntioned, esp for the rail meat in refreshing conditions Quote
capt jake Posted March 1, 2003 Author Posted March 1, 2003 OK, thanks, i am trying to lay out the masking for the non-skid. I wanted a margin around things, thus the cleat delma. I will ponder further!! Guess what?? Don't attempt to go into the boat while on jack stands and your almost adult son is inside on the same side as you enter!!!!! :shock: Thus, is comes crashing down!!! Only a minor bruise to my knee, he went un hurt! The hull bottom?? Sigh, I will go mix up some paint to roll it again!! Amazing how tough that glasas/epoxy stuff is!! Really!! It has talken a hell of a beating here in the shop, and I am impressed!! :) just a few gouges and dents, noting to worry about on the bottom, right Frank?? Holy Mackerel!!! :) Quote
Robert Cox Posted March 1, 2003 Posted March 1, 2003 Jake, I had contimplated having six cleats on the Vacationer for the same reasons you mention. Then I got to thinking about having to go forward to set the jib halyard or any one of a number of reason to go up there and envisions myself falling overboard after triping on a midship cleat. The side deck on the Vacationer looks narrow. I'll bet the side deck on that Weekender don't look any bigger. Just my .02 Bob Quote
capt jake Posted March 1, 2003 Author Posted March 1, 2003 God point Bob! I may just go with the 2 for now. And, no the Weekender decks are not any where near as large as a Vacationer!! Heck, I don't even know if a shoe will fit there!! :shock: Another thought! :shock: Quote
Robert Cox Posted March 1, 2003 Posted March 1, 2003 I honestly got up there and stood on the side deck with my size 12 foot and thought, "man, I'm clumsy on a flat sidewalk, I don't need that cleat there". Use a fender hook. Instead of that one 6" cleat I'm going to mount 2 fender hooks in it's place. Problem solved. Bob Quote
Frank Hagan Posted March 1, 2003 Posted March 1, 2003 Actually' date=' I was going to go with 4" bronze closed base cleats. The only bronze ones I could find in the right scale. The other option is black nylon 5".What do you think??[/quote'] Any of those cleats will work. Bronze or black will look very good on your boat! On placement, here's my recommendation. For the aft cleats, move them all the way back to onto the lazarette ... or at least add a pair there. About 4" from the transom. You'll want a line from the stern to the dock when tied up, and there's no sense having the line rub against 3' of your top rub rail as it leads back there. These boats are small, so you don't really need the cleat on the side deck in the mid-cockpit area. I like to keep the side decks around the cockpit clear, because you are going to be sitting on that side deck when the wind pipes up, and cleats are not good cushions. And besides that, your jib sheet(s) will have cam cleats just forward of that position if you decide to run them that way. The cleats by the port makes sense, as they can hold fenders as well as line (I never use that position to tie the boat to the dock, but do use it for fenders). You only need one bow cleat on a boat this size ... amidships, right in front of the hatch and behind the bits (or you can be traditional and use the bits!) Also remember that a cleat holds a line, which holds your boat to a dock. The boat and the dock both move, but not the same direction all the time. The Weekender sits pretty low in the water, so if the dock is high the line will clear your nice pretty rubrail without any difficulty. But if your docks are "thin", the lay of the line over your rub rail will become important. A couple of hours of rubbing the line over the varnish and it could require some touch-up. So wherever you place a cleat, lay a line there and see what would happen if a PWC comes by and makes your boat pump up and down several times while the dock stays stationary. Quote
Frank Hagan Posted March 1, 2003 Posted March 1, 2003 just a few gouges and dents' date=' noting to worry about on the bottom, right Frank?? Holy Mackerel!!! :)[/quote']Uh oh ... now you have to start over. I went really, really cheap and used galvanized cleats from West Marine. They don't put them in the fancy "sailboat cleat" section, they have them over by the anchor chain where the fru-fru gentlemen sailors never go. My 4" cleats were something like $1.99, with a heavy galvanized finish just ugly enough to fit with the "workboat finish" I have. I don't think they're an option on your boat though ... at least not until you knock it off the stands a few more times! Quote
Tim Diebert Posted March 1, 2003 Posted March 1, 2003 Frank, you are one funny guy! I just remembered something Jake....I don't use my cleats as part of my 'steering system'...I made some UHMW pad eyes. The line slips through them better. But I will tie off the tiller with the cleats....when I want to go below to select nice Chablis from the wine cellar. Seems like years since I have gone sailing. This Winter thing sucks. Quote
T. Nelson Surbrook Posted March 1, 2003 Posted March 1, 2003 Lots of good ideas and good reasons for the ideas. Here's what I did. I don't use a the clubfoot so the eyebolt makes a good place to tie off to. As for the cleats I just one on each side and I placed them over the deck joiner so they would have backing. It's purely a utilitatarian approch to the question. BTW, the more I look at your combing, the more I like what you have done. Quote
Guest Ray Frechette the 2nd Posted March 2, 2003 Posted March 2, 2003 Hey Jake, here are some pics of what I used for fender cleats. Probably would have been better to mount just below the rubrail, or on the deck itself. I caught my jacket on it this winter aand got a good tear in it. Backing plates not terribly crucial as there isn't much forces in play to hold up a boat fender. OK, where is the buttons to post pics now. I just figured it out a couple ays ago, and now they're gone.[/img] Quote
capt jake Posted March 2, 2003 Author Posted March 2, 2003 OK, now I know what thingymabobs you have been talking about. Cool. Like those deadeyes, Oak?? I don't know how well mine will hold up, but I had (still have) lots of it collecting dust, so the price was right. You should post some photos in hte picture section, so that we can take a further look at her. Quote
Bill Posted March 2, 2003 Posted March 2, 2003 Well... youv'e spent enough time on this board chatting...so, if you can "Talk-the-talk", How bout', Walk-the-Walk...youv'e got a lot of that Yankee Ingenuity...Post up!! B. Quote
capt jake Posted March 2, 2003 Author Posted March 2, 2003 At least the fir didn't smell like cat pee Actually, Zebrawood smells more like cow poo!! Very strong cow poo!! Quote
ScottWidmier Posted September 13, 2009 Posted September 13, 2009 Sorry I am little late in putting forth my 2 cents but I have been too busy working and building. Besides, it is getting hard to keep up with email, facebook, twitter, and all of the forums. Feel like half my life is spent in front of a computer! :? Front hatch: Living in the South (and even on warm days in the North) I would definitely and strongly recommend that you put the hinges in the back. It is amazing how much cooler an open hatch can make the inside of your cabin especially when you do not have opening ports. Even with opening ports, the hatch hinged up faces into the wind when at anchor bringing a cooling breeze making it possible to actually sleep, not sweat, in your boat. A windscoop helps this amazingly well. There are plenty of nice options out there for how to dog the hatch down to stand trailering or spray over the bow and how often do we face strong enough spray to lift up the forward hatch on these boats anyway? You can buy adjustable hatch arms or, even better, spring arms at www.duckworksmagazine.com fairly inexpensively. The spring ones are real quick to raise and equally quick to lower and a small line attached at the middle of the spring would allow you to lower the hatch from the cockpit or inside your warm sleeping bag without having to move a muscle. Cleats : These things are an evil necessity on a boat because they have a tendency to bruise toes and catch on lines at the most inconvenient of times. As such, I would minimize their use as much as possible. All you really need are three cleats. One should be in the bow mounted on the bowsprit and the fancy bits of wood the Stevenson's have in their design to hold down the bowsprit work perfectly fine. Anchor line chocks on the rubrail can protect your varnish. The other two should be mounted towards the stern. This provides enough cleats for dock and anchor lines. The Weekender, Pocket Cruiser, and Vacationer have enough other places to tie fenders and spring lines in the form of grab-rails and shrouds. An open-based toe rail (raised toerail supported by blocks) is a real salty looking addition that allows infinite places to attach lines without catching them like cleats do. BTW, grab rails are the best place to attach fenders as they allow you to raise the fenders to the level of the rubrails. Quote
JeffM Posted September 13, 2009 Posted September 13, 2009 Duckworks has nice ss Herreshoff style open base cleats. Nice place to tuck a spliced loop for docking, etc. Get 'em bigger than you think you'll need--you won't be sorry. Watch out for places where cleats might snag running rigging, especially when tacking. Hatch question: is fore hatch useful for funnelling air below for ventilation? That's the main reason I can think of for hinges aft. (My hatch lifts off and bungees to cabin top to keep out of the way; but is usually closed underway to keep spray out. Quote
ScottWidmier Posted September 13, 2009 Posted September 13, 2009 The forward hatch is useful for funneling air into the cabin either at anchor or under weigh. It is amazing how much air a hatch held at a 45-50 degree angle can funnel in. Of course, at anchor you can deploy a wind scoop which is even better than the hatch, if needed, though harder to take down in the event of rain. On my MacGregor 26 I have both a forward hatch and opening portholes. Even at the slip, the forward hatch paired with the companionway draws through twice as much air as the portholes though the combined area of the portholes is larger. I tend to undog the hatch but sail with it closed when racing and raise it when cruising. My family likes to camp-out down below when cruising sometimes and the combination of hatch and portholes makes it comfortable even in the Florida heat and sun. Quote
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