S-10 Build

[ulpilotrmh]

I started work on my S-10 a few weeks ago. I haven't worked on it every day, just off and on, waiting for the CNC routed plywood parts. I had some mahogany laying around and made up the breast hook and quarter knees. Also have the tiller made, except for the slot to fit over the rudder head. About a week ago I started working on the mast. The bottom two aluminum sections are done, and I'll start on the wood upper section today. The upper section will be laid up out of cypress birds mouth staves, and tapered to 1 1/4 inches at the top. I made up a one foot straight section of mast just to see how to do it. I did it all on the table saw. Don't need no stinking router bit.

Russ

[Garry]

Looks good. Great job on the birdsmouth sections.

[markja]

Your mast looks great. I am building an S-10, too

What did you use to paint the aluminum?

Are you using a reefing sail from Graham? I am wondering how to keep the 3 sections from turning when using the sectional mast. I don't think the halyard wants to be twisted up...

Maybe it won't be a problem if things fit tight enough?

MARK

[Hirilonde]

Mark, I did nothing to keep my mast sections from twisting.  I have the reefable sail and have noticed no problems. 

Looks good Russ.

[ulpilotrmh]

Looks good. Great job on the birdsmouth sections.

Thanks Gary. It'll be a little tougher with a 6 or 7 foot section.

Russ

[ulpilotrmh]

Your mast looks great. I am building an S-10, too

What did you use to paint the aluminum?

Are you using a reefing sail from Graham? I am wondering how to keep the 3 sections from turning when using the sectional mast. I don't think the halyard wants to be twisted up...

Maybe it won't be a problem if things fit tight enough?

MARK

Hey Mark:

I have some experience protecting aircraft aluminum from corrosion. I polished the raw tubing with brown "Scotchguard" pads, wiped them down with lacquer thinner, sprayed 2 coats of self etching primer and 2 coats of gloss white Krylon.

I will be using the reefing main and when I recieve it, and see how loosly the luff sleeve fits the mast, I intend to add some kind of easily removeable pin at each of the sections to prevent them from twisting. I'm thinking of something like a long 1/4 inch Stainless steel clevis pin, SS washer and a split ring, as long as the luff will allow it and still easily drop down the mast.

The bottom section will not twist because of the contoured block of wood at its base.

Russ

[Garry]

I had a Sidwinder 15 years ago that had a two-part mast with integral slot. The only thing that kept them aligned was that one end had a small slot and the other end had a machine screw that engaged the slot. A little cheesy but shows that it doesn't take much to keep the sections aligned.

[ulpilotrmh]

I had a Sidwinder 15 years ago that had a two-part mast with integral slot. The only thing that kept them aligned was that one end had a small slot and the other end had a machine screw that engaged the slot. A little cheesy but shows that it doesn't take much to keep the sections aligned.

Hey Gary, I like that idea. That way there's only one protrusion to interfere with the luff sleeve.

Russ

[Hirilonde]

I believe Graham recommends a tiny slot in the over lap end and a bump in the bushing of the insert end that fits into it.  Works like Garry's screw but doesn't protrude at all.  I figured I could always add this later, but so far haven't noticed any need.  Seems simple to do and apparently very little strain  in twisting occurs, so something small and non-structural is ample to do the trick.  I am guessing that my relatively tight joints are sufficient as they are, but should they wear loose this is what I will try next.

[ulpilotrmh]

I fabricated the boom during the last couple of days and fitted the gooseneck. Does anyone have photos of the assembly of the parts that fit on the boom and mast? This should be a simple thing but I'm not sure I can picture how it's suposed to work. I assume the fittings are supposed to allow the boom to move side to side across the boat, and there should be some flexibility in the up and down direction as well. The way it seems to want to go together, allows for no up and down movement, and very restricted movement side to side.

Russ

[Designer]

Here is a picture of my Spindrift 10 gooseneck. The gooseneck is fixed on the mast and the luff is adjusted with a downhaul. If you look at the picture you will notice that the downhaul is a loop (white line) which goes around the boom. The downhaul has a snaphook with a block attached to give a 2:1 purchase. The red flecked line is the outhaul and the green flecked line is the boom vang.

I put a snaphook on the mainsheet also so that to rig and unrig I could unsnap the mainsheet, vang and downhaul, undo the outhaul and pull a toggle pin on the gooseneck and remove the boom. When it is windy it is good to be able to remove the boom quickly.  The sail will fly like a flag without a problem until you are ready to take the mast out.

[ulpilotrmh]

Thanks Graham, I thimk I have it now.

Russ