Mini takes shape

[Hirilonde]

I put in a long day today and finished wiring, fileted and glassed the interior of the seams.

Wiring went faster in total time than I thought it would, but was harder than I thought in some respects. It never dawned on me that cleaning blood from the plywood would be one of the steps :oops: I ended up using 16 awg stainless seizing wire.

I took Charlie's advice on fileting/glassing and did the entire interior as a non-stop process. It may be a bit harder removing the wire tomorrow, but I figure I saved a ton of time de-waxing and sanding between filets and glass.

A note on my plywood: I used a French Moroccan okume. It was recommended by our lumber supplier. It seems it is fabricated to Lloyds of London specifications, what-ever they are. Sheets measure 48.25" x 98.5" (see photo)

Tomorrow I pull the wires and see how far I can get from there.

[P Doug (WA)]

Hirilond

[Hirilonde]

A few more pictures.

[Hirilonde]

I'm getting down to the final stages of construction and have a couple questions. These are directed to Graham or anyone with pram experiences that might have an opinion.

1. The Minipaw plans show the aft seat as being forward of the transom by about 2" in the longitudinal section. I am curious why? Is it because a nominal 1x10 is used and by placing it forward the actual seat protrudes forward 12" from the transom? I was wondering if maybe a 12" seat that meets the transom might be better? I am looking for any comments in regards to either option in helping me decide how to make mine.

2. The plans show the bow painter hole located through the transom below the gunwhale extension but high enough to go through the stiffener. I understand the logic to this in regards to waterproof and an existing backer. Is a painter from this far up as good as one located lower in regards to towing? I know some dinghys squat down at the stern naturally and don't need a painter coming from down closer to the water to aid in keeping the bow up while in tow. Is this the case with the Mini or might a through bolted padeye mounted lower work better? Or is it unnecessary? Again, any informed opinions are welcome.

[chipveres]

Semi-serious reply quoted from Dynamite Payson: It's forward for two reasons: To keep oil from the outboard motor off the thwart, and to give line-of-sight to the crabs hiding under it. (removed from lobster pots) Otherwise they add to the flow of blood your stitching wire started.

[Garry]

I'm not sure about the thwart. It does seem that running it to the stern would add some strength and stiffen the transom, particularly if you use a motor.

As for the towing eye, many people seem concerned about the position, but I am absolutely certain that it makes no difference at what height it is attached. With any length on the tow line, it will be pulling esentially horizontal and will provide no significant vertical pull to keep the bow up. Why be concerned that the unloaded dinghy will dive under when it is designed to be seaworthy with a load when you are using it. While being towed, the dinghy will mostly be exceeding hull speed which means it will be riding bow high anyway. Except for breaking waves, no waves will be steep enough for the dinghy to punch into.

I have towed dinghys several thousand miles, and I have seem them surfing waves and passing me then doing a pirouette at the end of the tow line, but I have never seen one scoop up a bow full of water.

[Designer]

I positioned the aft thwart so that it would be more comfortable when using a standard 1x10. My main objective was cost, ergonomics and light weight. Yes it would be stronger if you used a 1 x 12 and attached it to the transom but you could not use a large enough outboard on the boat to warrant the extra strength.

The painter attachment in the bow is cheap and practical. Like Garry said, I can't see that potting it lower would make it tow better. I prefer not to have a bow eye because I have seen it tear up the mothership's topsides whenever it comes up to the boat at the wrong angle.

It looks like you are doing a great job.

[Hirilonde]

Thanks for the replies all. I will recommend to my friend I am building her for that I use the details as in the plans. He particularly liked the no bow hardware idea as he hates the dings in his catboat.

I hope to finish building this weekend. Then I turn her over to the owner to sand, fair, prime and paint. Then I can turn my attention to my tender (Spindrift 9N).

[JeffM]

Good deal! Your friend gets a boat, and you get to do only the fun part!

[Hirilonde]

Well, its time to turn it over to the owner. I've had a lot of fun building her, and it hurts to not take it through the final pretty up stages after all the effort expended. But, it is the deal I made with him, and it means I can start on mine now

Some time in the spring my friend will be bringing her back all painted and ready to row for final pictures. I'll just have to wait till then to see the final results.

[P Doug (WA)]

Sure hope he doesn't mess up your beautiful work. Will your customer post a picture of the final?

[Charlie Jones]

Tell your friend to put some foam under the seats

Cause the boat won't float him full of water without foam.

[Hirilonde]

Sure hope he doesn't mess up your beautiful work.

Heehee, thanks. He is the only person I know who filled dings, faired, epoxy primed and 2-part linear polyurethaned an entire 18' catboat using roll and tip method, then wet sanded, compounded and buffed the job till it looked like it was sprayed. He will do a great job finishing it.

Will your customer post a picture of the final?

I made him promise to bring it back to the yard for final photos including one being rowed before I let him take it home.

:wink: