mustangermatt Posted August 9, 2006 Posted August 9, 2006 When I built my boat I started painting the interior with interlux one part epoxy at about $30 qt. By the time I got to the decks and exterior I couldn't afford that so I went with porch and deck paint from the local hardware store for about $30 a gallon. After alot of very hard use over the last 13 months I decide to roll on another coat to spruce things up a little. I was suprised to find that the porch paint is holding up better than the interlux. The interlux chips and flakes. The porch paint pretty much has to be gouged off by gravel and barnicles. I have had the boat in fresh water for 8 days at a stretch, and salt water for 6. I have never had any softening etc with either the interlux or porch paint. I guess you don't always get what you pay for :-) Quote
Arnie Eaton Posted August 9, 2006 Posted August 9, 2006 Would you please post the brand of porch paint you used. I'm sure most of us would like to know. Quote
mustangermatt Posted August 10, 2006 Author Posted August 10, 2006 Zinzeer 123 primer, then Valspar enamel porch and deck paint. You MUST use a primer when painting epoxy surfaces or the Valspar paint will never cure (same for the interlux). And what a god awful mess to clean up :-) I got it at the local McDaniels hardware store. I am guessing any enamel paint designed for heavy traffic outdoor surfaces would work as well. Quote
smacrae Posted August 10, 2006 Posted August 10, 2006 Many of us used to paint our fishing boats with household enamel. Much cheaper than the Marine stuff, and as we had to slip our boats every year for survey, it lasted well enough. Certainly by the end of the season those boats painted with expensive marine paints looked just as scruffy. :cry: Quote
lsearle Posted August 10, 2006 Posted August 10, 2006 First problem,whose epoxy?Some of them produce so much amine bloom that no alkyd enamel can adhere.Rember, epoxy is a glue, not a paint.So start by wet sanding with360-400 wet n dry.When you have a matte finish,you are guaranteed a good mechanical bond.Do not be tempted to use a coarser grade of abrasive.Use plenty of dishwashing liquid in water and rinse well.Never use a solvent. We have had great sucess using another Zinsser product,marketed here as Cover Stain.It is one hour dry,although you should still do a SPLIT TAPE test at about 4 hours to be sure.Unlike B>I>N> it is alkyd [oil] compatible. Most porch and decking enamels have additional hardeners,either Cobalt or true terebines tospeed through [thru? in Yankspeak] drying. If you have the time,leave the undercoat/sealer a week to harden,in the sun,but out of the rain.never cover an undercoated surface with a plastic sheet.And remember,three unthinned coats of topcoat enamel,WELL LAID OFF ,i e.each coat brushed thin.The more you aerate the enamel by brushing,the more durable[and glossy] the finish. Quote
Scott Dunsworth Posted August 17, 2006 Posted August 17, 2006 :oops:I would like to add Two or three cents here. I used rustoleum marine one part and it is staining very nicely already. Also I used Kirbys one part and it seems to be resisting stains but I have noticed some mildew growth on the rudder housing. Both seem to be scuff resistent. Nether are standing up to the hard scrapes. IF doing it over I would do the two part paint and just accept the extra $200 cost. I will be repainting my Belhaven next year sometime. Guys Just skip the cheaper way. It will be so much easyer to spend the dollars and have a nicer and more durable finish. :wink: The bottom paint VC performace by interlux is great stuff, Super slick and very hard. Scott Quote
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