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Posted

Amen.

My theory is that dolphins have hides with built in vortex generators for smooth flow. I seek to achieve the same vortex generator effect by random distribution of fractal textured surfaces...

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

DocA

Posted

Amen.

My theory is that dolphins have hides with built in vortex generators for smooth flow. I seek to achieve the same vortex generator effect by random distribution of fractal textured surfaces...

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

DocA

Posted

Sanding, Sanding, Sanding,

I am still working on the deck, will take me a little longer then expected.

specialy when I find spots where I did not put enough hardener in the body filler :x

So I have to peel off the soft spot and bondo over again. It's a learning process since it is my first time using this stuff.

Now the taste of sailing has been replace by the taste os sanding dust :lol:

Keep you guys posted

Cheers

Posted

"Soft spot"? If your Bondo isn't cured (ie, didn't put in enough hardner); mix up another batch that is mixed correctly and maybe a little hotter. Spread it on the soft spot, it will cure it. I learned that little trick from an auto body guy. It works well.

As for Joe's comments, he is correct, to a point. As long as you properly seal the Bondo, it should be fine. Seal with 3-4 epoxy flow coats, then prime with a good epoxy primer, then paint.

A better practice is to do the major fairing with thickened epoxy, flow coat, prime, bondo, prime, paint.

Posted

Another thing that I've "borrowed" from the autobody shops is to use an auto-body shaper (a big surform) to correct the worst of my mistakes. Then I move to a small surform. Sanding is pretty minimal after that and the nice thing is that the shapers make no dust at all.

I've also discovered the auto-body shaper works well when I'm fixing plaster in my old house to remove the lumps there as well.

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