Gooseneck

[cs]

Okay I was looking at the plans for the gooseneck and I'm not sure if that is the best way. Anyone done it like the plan and how does it work?

One of my concerns is the pivot point. Does the 1" pipe pivot and how bad does that work agaisn't the mast? If the 1/8" strap is suppossed to flex with the boom movement how well does that last?

Chad

[Charlie Jones]

UH- Gooseneck for what?

Lots of different boats being discussed here these days.

[cs]

I'm sorry. This the gooseneck for where the boom attaches to the mast on the weekender. The plans call for a 1" pipe drilled with holes at 90 degrees to each other and eyebolts in the mast with a 1/8" strap on the boom.

Chad

[Dave R1]

Chad, I bought a gooseneck for my Weekender from Duckworks. Not too expensive and it works perfectly.

[Fintan Murphy]

I'd agree with Dave, if you can buy one cheaply do.

I didn't have that option and made one. Not too difficult to make, but unless you can drill stainless, you will have to get that done. And you have to round off one end of the pipe alot so that it doesn't foul the boom when it swings from side to side.

So if you can buy one, do. Or if you have loads of time on your hands, build a gooseneck (boomneck?) which looks very salty.

[Barry Pyeatt]

The one in the plans works just fine but isn't "pretty". As mentioned, it will be smoother working if you allow for clearances when it pivots. I've seen Copper couplers for water pipe used and they are tough and workable with ordinary tools, files, emery paper, etc. I've also seen a couple that use Lignum Vite' instead of the pipe. Attractive, different and tough. It isn't absolutely necessary to go to Stainless pipe.

There are goosenecks from Glen-l also and other sources besides the really affordable ones from Duckworks. I use a sliding gooseneck from Glen-L on a length of 5/8" sail track that allows me to adjust the height of the gooseneck on the mast. This comes in handy for boom tent setup for overnighting or making adjustmensts to the main for various conditions. I "borrowed" that idea from Phil Gowens.

[cs]

Any others out there? I've looked at Duckworks and Glen-L and have e-mailed Chuck at Duckworks with a question about his gooseneck. Not had any luck finding any others.

Chad

[cs]

Never mind. I just ordered RL-328 from Duckworks.

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/rigging/rl328/index.htm

Chad

[Dave R1]

Chad, that's what I have. I did end up replacing the pin that holds the arms with a 1/4" stainless bolt (or maybe a titanium one but I think I used stainless) because the pin was too short for my boom even after routing some flats on the side. If you do that be sure to use a stop nut and spacers on the inside of the arms. I scrounged some spacers that go between the bearings on roller blade wheels for that.

[cs]

I hadn't thought about using spacers. Chuck at Duckworks said to just bend the tangs.

Chad

[cs]

Dave, stand by. Michael Mason e-mailed me and he is ready for us to get fired up again on the DragonShip.

Chad

[Barry Pyeatt]

Chad,

That gooseneck from Duckworks should work fine. I've seen it on a lot of boats and they all have had good results with it. There are precious few goosenecks that will work "as is" on a Weekender". Most have to be modified in one way or another or are so bloody expensive that most builders won't pay that much.

There are a whole lot of Weekenders out there with goosenecks straight from the plans. They are easy to fabricate, reliable, and inexpensive but most importantly....they work.

[Charlie Jones]

You know you CAN just order a longer clevis pin instead of using a bolt.

But bending the tangs should work well also

[John Turpin]

I bought the gooseneck displayed above from Glen-L for my Two Paw 8. Except, I bought the sail track mount version. The workmanship is very good.

And, Charlie sent me a piece of sail track for free!!!!

[Dave R1]

Charlie, I know that I could have gotten a longer pin but I had the bolt and nut on hand. Seemed like it made more sense to use what I had.

FWIW, I did look and I used a stainless bolt. I guess I'm saving the titanium bolts for something else, though I don't know what. :roll:

[Bud_Wilson]

Chad I had one built at a fab shop, stop buy Jasper some time when you are going or coming from South Pittsburg and look at it. but the ducksworth gooseneck will work well at probably less bucks. It's a nice peace of hardware. Y'all Come Cap'N Bud.

[kydocfrog]

Longer clevis pin...longer clevis pin...

Duh. What did I do with all that industrial design education...so many years ago... :roll: That certainly would have been easier that all that chisle inletting...

Anyway, the Duckworks gooseneck is a nice piece.

DocA

[Charlie Jones]

lol- Not to worry. JUST yesterday, Laura and I worked 30 minutes getting 4200 down inside a bow pulpit fitting to seal the wires for the bow light. The wires come from below decks and run inside the pulpit to the light up front.

When we got home from the boat and were unloading, we realized the long plastic NOZZLE for the tube of 4200 ( packed along with the tube ya know) would have injected the stuff RIGHT where we needed it- in about 2 minutes;)

NEITHER of us even thought about it till then cause we almost never use the nozzle tips.

DOUBLE DUH!!!

[Tony Pratt]

Hi cs on my weekender I cut an old piece of table leg about 8 inches long and about 2 inches thick hallow of course then I drilled for the eye bolt with a plastic washer on top and bottom so it will move easy in my pic it doesn't show how I connected it to the boom but Capt jake pic does. you finish it off by attaching the metal strap to your gooseneck and the boom. so far its working great it has great movement with no binding.

[capt jake]

And in that picture, the gooseneck is solid SS machined to the curve shown on the front side. A little added clearance. I also machined UHMW bearings to ride in the eye bolts.