sail luffs compared

[JeffM]

Laced, track or sleeved? Let's see if I can summarize the pros and cons from the threads I've been able to find:

A track-mounted sail luff is most flexible in terms of reefing (especially from the cockpit) and doing that neat trick of lowering the rig to lower the center of effort (hence heeling force) without reducing sail area. It's a bit more pricey and requires some extra work. It also takes longer to rig.

A sleeve luff gives a nice clean airfoil, and is always on the mast and ready to go (reducing set-up time). But reefing it requires going up on the foredeck and rotating the mast while someone else holds the loose and madly-flapping clew. On the fly, it might be too much to manage on a rig as big as a CS20. If your boat is on a mooring, the furled sails would be waving around up in the sky instead of neatly tied to the sprit (?).

No one seems to prefer lacing -- worst of both worlds?

I like things fast and like the look of the sleeve luff. I wonder whether the rig-lowering trick could be managed by leaving the top of the sleeve open and rigging a halyard, then sliding the sleeve up or down the mast. (Too difficult with the friction of the whole sleeve against the mast?) I also wonder why, when the mast is rotated to reef or furl, it doesn't simply turn inside the sleeve?

Getting ahead of myself, as usual (haven't even taped the outside of the hull yet), but just wondering...

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

Although I have not used mine yet, I opted for the sleeve. My thought was that the rig is so simple (self tending, etc.) that I didnt want to complicate the sail handling. When reefing is necessary, I plan on stepping a mast in the 3rd hole and using just one. I know it will be a little difficult when underway.

[Brent]

Decisions and choices! This is one of those situations that boil down to personal preference.

I like things fast and like the look of the sleeve luff. I wonder whether the rig-lowering trick could be managed by leaving the top of the sleeve open and rigging a halyard, then sliding the sleeve up or down the mast. (Too difficult with the friction of the whole sleeve against the mast?) I also wonder why, when the mast is rotated to reef or furl, it doesn't simply turn inside the sleeve?

I figure the sleeve luff with a halyard would work just fine, just use the cunningham to pull the sail lower.

On my CS20, rigged with sail track, lowering the sails is a good way to keep the boat on her feet as the wind builds. With the rigging running back it is done completely without leaving the helm station in less than 60 seconds.

As the wind builds further I take a full slab reef, which is straight forward with the sail track. The boat sails sweetly when reefed, giving me the confidence to launch and enjoy a sail on days that I would otherwise have to pass up.

With the luff sleeve, I would do what Joe suggests and post the mizzen forward and probably skip the wrap around the mast reefing concept ( my own personal bias). I am sure moving that mizzen on a CS20 is gonna be a challenge when the stink blows in and you are way out there.

[Bruce Leonard]

I sail a Core Sound 20( #510) in Narragansett Bay and am a strong believer in the sail track and reefing setup as specified by Graham on this forum. I step the masts, thread my sails and set up the sprits in about 20 minutes. I always rig on my trailer. The sail tracks don't add much time and they add flexibility, options and safety that I would not be without in coastal waters or big lakes. The easy reefing capability makes it possible for me to sail singlhanded in 10-20 knot breezes. When it looks like I will be overpowered wity full sail, I reef at the ramp and go sailing. I also like to be able to easlily lower the sails alltogether in an emergency.

My sailing if typically in 5 to 20 knots often with heavy duty gusts. As an experienced sailer of centerboard boats such as Lightnings and Thistles, I would not feel secure or smart without the sail track setup, even with able crew to assist me. It's definitely worth the small additional cost and 3 minutes of additonal set up time.

By the way except in a life or death emergency, I would consider using the third mast step on my CS 20 only if I set up the boat that way at the ramp. Love this boat!

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

The traditional working sharpie's used two masts in the summer and one in spring, fall and winter.

It boils down to the weather patterns in your area and personal preference. A sail track significantly adds to the complexity of the boat...if you set it up to take advantage of the feature.

I have been thinking about a roller furling that rolls the fore mast...but then the issue is the attachment of the sprit/snotter. Anyone have any ideas for attaching the snotter after rolling the sail on the mast?

[Brent]

Anyone have any ideas for attaching the snotter after rolling the sail on the mast?

I am thinking some sails have been made with a grommet in the sail about 20 % behind the luff. The sail can be rolled onto the mast until the grommet is at the mast, and a lanyard passed through for attaching the snotter. This lanyard would also tend to keep the sail reefed on the mast.

[Scott Dufour]

Does rolling the sail on the mast cause significant wear on the sail?

[Kudzu]

A sail track significantly adds to the complexity of the boat...if you set it up to take advantage of the feature.

How do you figure that? I have never sailed anything that didn't use tracks, I had them on my Cal 20 and never saw it as complicated. Of course I have never sailed one without tracks to compare it too. So what am I missing?

[JeffM]

Hi, Bruce! I still look forward to sailing with you again.

I don't think Graham specified a sail track in his plans; rather, he offers several options and leaves it to the builder.

In what circumstances would you want the sails down in a hurry? Since there are no shrouds, you can let the sheets go even going straight downwind. Is the windage of completely flapping sails still great enough to be a danger? The ability to reef from the cockpit is an advantage with the sail track. But it seems a good option to sheet in the mizzen, leaving the boat to weathervane while I go forward, release the snotter, unlock and rotate the mast, and put the snotter back into the loop in the sail and in the reef grommet. If I recall, you also need to leave the tiller to reef, since you decided not to run the main halyard back to the cockpit in your own boat, preferring to forgo such reefing ability to reduce clutter and tangle.

Jeff

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

Here are a couple shots of finished boats with a simple and complex rig.

Differing opinions are what bring us together...as builders tend to not accept what is offered to the masses.

I have raced on Santana and Ultimate 20's. I was considering a complex rig with sail tracks, uphauls, downhauls, cunninghams, etc., all leading to the helmsman for single handing. But for me the complexity is a contradiction to the simple design...self tending sails, no standing rigging, etc.. Stuff a couple masts in the holes and get sailing.

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[Kudzu]

Ahh, I see what you meant now! Thanks for the explination. That one does look complex.

[Garry]

The sail I ordered from Graham for my Spindrift 11N will have one set of reef points. The sleeve will be open at the top with a grommet to connect a halyard led over the top of the mast. The sleeve will be cut away from the lower portion of the sail to allow for reefing. I think with a larger sail (and therefore larger reefable area), straps or lacing could go around the mast to support the portion of the sail where the sleeve is cut away. I would imagine this setup could work well and simply even for a larger sail.

[Designer]

Jeff,

If you want to use a sprit you cannot raise or lower a sleeve or lace on sail as it can't get past the snotter. I don't like the traditional form of reefing by brailing the forward portion of the sail to the mast because you end up with a fat leading edge and sometimes the wind can open up a portion which really catches the wind.

My personal preference with a CS20 is to use sail track. There are only two extra lines, the halyard and reefing line (I like to run the snotter back to the helm as it is the draft control regardless of which rig that you use).

Sam Rogers with the CS20 'Ketchup' tells me that he is happy with his reefing by rolling the sail around the mast, locking the mast and moving the snotter to a reinforced loop in the sail.

My new CS17 has a sleeve luff without any reefing. I will probably set it up like Ketchup and try it for a while. I suspect that in time I will go to a sail track.