slow goin

[adla]

unfortunately my boat building has come to almost a dead stop...work work work but never any fun....

I finally cleaned up the shop and finished the bits for the bowsprit.

some pics

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[Stump]

OK alda,

I wasn't kidding before about how clean your shop was...now your just making me look bad :oops: :wink:

The only thing good about building on the grass under a tarp is you don't have to sweep...I do have to sometimes trim the grass around the keel however

Work is over-rated, must play and build boats...someday I'll figure out what I want to be when I grow up. :wink:

[adla]

oh yeah...you inspired the effort when u accused me of being neat in the first place!

well, i just want to say that for the majority of this boat project the shop (not the outside work area - the inside shop that is way too small) has been a disaster...could barely walk in there....and i am real proud of how clean it is.

i cut the rings for the portholes last night and noticed that i really needed a bandsaw...or at least i wanted one...so, that is on it's way. I will finish the inside of the cabin with MUCH mohogany...but work distracts me and for SOME LAME reason, i went back to college and have school everyday, as if i have time...i'd rather build the boat.

i am so proud of my clean shop..i just had to post more pictures..

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[jakehaynie]

Hey, nice table saw. Is that new? And the router, did that come that way with the saw or did you add it? Are you satisfied with the Jet brand? Sorry for all the ? but I was thinking about upgrading my saw. I'm still using an old cast iron craftsman contractors saw. A dinosaur but still a good solid tool. I have a Delta 14" bandsaw and love it! You and I are at about the same stage of completion on our weekenders, only I've been at it for two years.

Good luck

Jake

[adla]

Jack,

the table saw is about 9 mo old (it sat in the box for 2 months due to work and lack of time) - i started out building "built-in" type bookshelves and stuff for the house. I am really happy with it...almost went with a contractor type (and in fact ended up getting a used Rigid for my carport) and then decided to just suck it up and get the jet. It came with the Bosch router and exacta-lift insert...it is right tilt and i think i would have preffered left tilt but the Rigid is left tilt so, it works out. I like the Jet brand so much that I went with their 14" bandsaw too...I wish I had the lifelong knowledge and skill that someone like Bob Smalser has but I don't...and having a good saw and taking some skill and a lot of care goes a long way.

Adla

[Stump]

Yeah, I was going to go with mohogany.... :?

or iron wood could have presented a challange...

but I figure I'm safer sticking with pine and paint... :shock:

with a lot of bondo thrown in for luck. :wink:

wish I had your talent your work always looks great :!:

I keep telling my beautiful bride, if I only had the proper tools :? :shock: :wink: :twisted:

[Dave R1]

Adla, if you get the urge to clean again, I can help you satisfy it.

That bowsprit and bitts assembly is looking good.

I wanted the Jet cabinet saw but I haven't got 240V to my shop (or any way to get it there) and wired for 120V the motor would draw more current than the circuit could handle with a dust collector. I ended up with the 1 1/2 HP contractor's saw with CI wings. I like it just fine. I put the Incra TS-IIIa on it right out of the box. I love the set up.

I also liked the Jet TS so well, I ended up buying the Jet 16" bandsaw.

Keep up the great work.

[adla]

well i had the "cottage" wired for 220 because I knew that somewhere down the line I would want to run an arc welder...also it has a mini-breaker box panel and all the plug clusters are on their own breaker..which makes it nice...I just should have gone with 400 sq ft and not 200.

AM i goIng to regret getting the 14" bandsaw? Seemed like it would be enough....i really bought it in haste...i have wanted a bandsaw for a long time...but it will be like my table saw..in a box for a month when it gets here...also, i had the table saw assembled and ready to use a long time before i had the courage to make any cuts with it. I had one bad kickback...but that was all it took to "understand" what it is and what causes it...that which doesn't kill us makes us stronger, eh?

adla

[Dave R1]

Regret the 14" bandsaw? I don't know. I doubt it. I opted for the 16" because I wanted a bit more power for resawing. I could have gotten a 14" Delta with a 1 1/2HP motor but it would have cost more than I paid for the Jet 16". I also like the fact that I can use wider blades and have more capacity without having to monkey with the riser block.

There are some things you can do to improve the 14" saw such as put on better blades Timberwolf or Woodslicer), install a beefier tensioning spring, make a larger auxillary table (Shop Notes No. 76 has plans for a nice one. They also did a short thing on a clamp I designed.), install better blade guides.

I expect you'll find that saw will serve you quite well for many years.

Now, lets talk about kick back on your tablesaw. I can't tell for sure but it looks like you might have a zero clearance throat plate. If you don't, get one. Make sure you always use a splitter during ripping operations. That will prevent the wood from closing up on the back of the blade and getting kicked back at you.

I would also invest in a pair of Grrrippers. They are great for tablesaw, router table and jointer. If you want, I'll get you the website for them.

Be safe.

Dave

[adla]

the kickback was user error ***my fault*** but i assure you i take the time to think every cut through and through...I use the splitter and blade guard that came with the table (although I think that there needs to be some improvement)...also, in spite of the beer in the above pictures...i assure you that i do not approach that saw with anything but sober reverence. I need my hands and fingers (piano player).

That is a zero clearance insert in there and I have several others for various dado set ups. The blade guard and splitter are off because i had used the cross cut sled earlier.

I will check out the shop notes issue...i have a subscription to fine woodworking and the CD of all the back issues...so, I read a lot of good material which helps me solve problems before i get started.

dunno what grippers are...i will check it out.

what i really wish is that i could get private instruction from a real woodworker (actually working on that now)...i paid for piano lessons for years (and my mother for about 4x as many years) why not pay for woodworking instruction? I hear there is a highschool teacher that is an ex boat builder...trying to get in touch with him....*sigh*...like i have the time.

Thanks for the info and advice Dave.

[Dave R1]

Glad if it helps. I think you're on to something with the woodworking instruction like piano lessons. Problem is you might have to give a recital. :shock:

I'm glad to know you have zero clearance plates and use the splitter/guard setup. Actually, I have abandaoned the factory splitter and guard. I made a splitter which fits into a slot in the aft end of the insert plate. I used a piece of maple for that and it works very well. I can adjust it so it doesn't stick up above the blade. That way I don't need to remove it when making cuts that don't go through.

Here's a link to the GRRR-Ripper http://www.microjig.com/

[Jan Williamson]

Adla,

my garage is at the point of no pasage right now, you know step or trip over everything. Only I don't want to stiffle the boat building roll I am on to clean it. I don't plan on finishing till next spring anyway so I am in no hurry.

I got a Jet brand 14" band saw for my birthday last fall. I love it. I don't know at this point what I would do without it. Many uses!!

Like for the splash coamings(sp?). Your bits and chocks look great.

[capt jake]

I personally think that splitter are pooh! They get in the way and reduce the accuracy of the cut, IMHO!

That said, I think Dave's post of the Grrrripper is awesome! I only have sent my fingers through the saw once; my fault but carefull practice will get you around most things.

I only have had two nasty kickbacks, both were user error. One was the fingers, the other was a piece of Cedar trim to the gut at mach 1! Both were my fault and not the machine; though you have to observe the grain and watch the wood to see what it wants to do.

And BTW Jan, I trip over everything in my shop presently too! Haven't had the time to 'properly' set it up after the move.

[adla]

well the splitter and the blade guard definately need to be upgraded...they get me sort of irked from time to time.

I had just the one nasty kickback...a 2'x2' 3/4" ply board that (well the cut had flaws from the get go...learned a lot on the one kickback) hit me in the gut at AT LEAST mach 1. i have a really high threshold for pain and looked down fully expecting to see myself cut in half (it hit me hard) and then tried to walk it off...stepped outside and fell to the ground...blinded from the pain (which was completely delayed)...took me (estimate) about 20 min to get my head on straight...i was ghostly white the whole night...needless to say i got over it but have been really respectful of the table saw ever since. NOT a toy..not at 3 hp...not something i ever want to have happen again. I practically bring an offering to the shop and bow to the thing before i start a cut.

Jan...it was unbearable...even wanting to work on the boat (for me) didn't outweigh the need to find something as simple as a screw driver....i might have saved more time than spent cleaning it up...i can't tell you how many times i have been frustrated and angry searching for somthing i just set down :twisted:

adla

[Dave R1]

Jake, I'll agree with you that the OEM blade guards leave something to be desired. I will take you to task on splitters, however.

Kickback occurs because the rising teeth at the back of the blade get a grip on the wood, then lift and throw the wood back at you. This is very dangerous and once the wood starts moving, there's nothing to do but duck.

A couple of common reasons for this are a poorly adjust rip fence. If the fence is closer to the blade at the back than the front, the wood gets pushed into the rear edge of the blade. Another cause is stress release in the wood. Sometimes when ripping a piece of wood, the kerf will open as you go. That's pretty harmless. Sometimes the kerf closes up as you cut. That's bad if there's no splitter because the wood will pinch the rising teeth allowing the saw to get hold of it.

The third common reason is allowing the piece between the fence and the blade to rotate a little bit while cutting. Never use the rip fence to make cross cuts.

A proper splitter will prevent the blade from catching the wood. A proper splitter won't get in the way, either. The splitter on my saw is a piece of maple the same thickness as the blade. (3/32" in my case.) It fits into a slot at the rear end of my zero clearance insert (ZCI). It was simple to make and I'm sure has prevented me from ever experiencing kickback.

Take a look at the Euro saws. They have a great splitter arrangement that doesn't extend above the top of the blade and raises and lowers with the blade. There are also some very good after market splitters out there that mount to the guard mounting points on the saw. they are easily removable and will tilt with the blade. Admittedly, mine doesn't do that.

[capt jake]

A properly adjusted fence will solve 99 % of all problems.

Another cause is stress release in the wood. Sometimes when ripping a piece of wood, the kerf will open as you go. That's pretty harmless. Sometimes the kerf closes up as you cut. That's bad if there's no splitter because the wood will pinch the rising teeth allowing the saw to get hold of it.

This is the only time I ever get kick-back; but if you study the grain prooir to cutting, you can avoid it most times. If not, then I insert a wedge.

Compound cuts have a tendeny to kick as well, and in this case a splitter is of no use and will only get in the way.

For my use, I only cut with the tablesaw blade at 90 degrees about 75% of the time. I tilt the blade fairly often; just depends upon the project.

Hey, to each their own!

[Guest]

I like to hear women talk about table saws, and planing for the future, such as new electrical boxes to accomadate arc welders. Thats way too cool. 8) On a serious note, talking about wood kick backs, a properly aligned guide is essential it sawing safely. But in some cases, even with the proper alignment, wood will bind or kick back, if sawn with the crown facing the guide. In most case, every piece of wood has some crown in it. So check first, and adjust the wood to allow for the crown to be against the guide.

With green wood, or flat sawn wide pieces it will sometimes have the chance to twist on you, binding on the blade, But a sharp blade is paramont to insure long term safety with a table saw. Always, use a catch roller, on the outlet side. You can even make these with saw horses, built to the same height as your saw. Or you can clamp a H style scrap pieces together from the top of the saw horse, allowing it to catch the longer pieces of wood. This keeps your hands easly away, for holding down and pushing at the same time, and will eliminate donating finger parts to your project.

[Frank Hagan]

I find kickback happening most often with sheet stock; its very easy to allow a 1/4" or 3/8" thick panel to move slightly away from the fence and bind the blade. A featherboard can't be used with these big panels. A splitter doesn't help too much in those situations, as the panel itself flexes enough to ride up the splitter.

For panel cutting, I now use a circular saw and a guide I built for it, then take the more manageable panels to the table saw. Support before and after the table is always a challenge in my small shop; I really need big flat tables rather than the roller stands I have.

[capt jake]

Sheet stock is best cut with infeed and outfeed supports. I have never had a problem with sheet stock; and I have ripped a bunch! But I am diligent to keep it tight to the 'properly aligned' fence! Very diligent!

[adla]

The kick back error i had was due to poor planning and trying to do a cross cut type manuever with just the fence as a guide. I have since built a cross cut sled and use it to cut anything small enough and anything larger gets cut with a skilsaw. Plus I always have the other table saw under the carport that can be set up for cutting larger panels.The sled is worth its weight in GOLD. I need another sled that allows me to cut dados and one for angle cuts...whOo hoo would i be havin' fun then.

i have appreciated the pawls on the OEM splitter that hold the wood when ripping because they almost completely eliminate the possibility of kickback ..but they get in the way for some cuts. The blade guard is an absolutel nuissance and will be upgraded by the end of the summer. I'm not sure i am clever enough to work without a splitter for most ripping and will be adopting Dave's idea.

Oyster, as a matter of fact the guy that built the "cottage" kept saying ..."Lady, this ain't no Cottage". The more delicate me likes to think of it one way and paint it in Martha Stewart colors...and my other personality fills it with power toOls including a new Lincoln arc welder. Woodworking is new to me (within this last year) but metal fabrication is not.... :twisted:

Adla