UHMW for keel protection

[Jan Williamson]

I am thinking of using UHMW as a protective shoe for the keel. I want to install something, and have considered white oak. A drift boat kit company uses it for the bottom of their boats. Any thoughts on this? I wonder if it would be strong enough?

[Ken]

Jan,

I hope we get some input on this from someone - I have some uhmw also and have thought about using this for protection on the keel as well. I also have considered shaping smaller strips for attaching to the siderails for protection too. Hopefully some wise sage will have an opiniion or experience with this topic.

Ken

[Jan Williamson]

Ken,

Well after looking at Phil Gowan's site and his link to making your own blocks, I noticed the sheaves can be made out of that stuff too. The site for Greg Tatmans drift boats lists it as a good boat bottom protection. So if they can use it for drift boats (rocky white water), seems the keel takes a similar beating. I would wonder about attaching it too.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Jan,

The material is available in sheets of various thicknesses, widths and lengths as well as colors for this very use. West Marine has them listed in their catalog but they are pricey based upon the "Marine" designation.

They work well and really aid in loading and unloading as well.

Typically they are used along the keels on glass boats but they would also work on our little wooden boats.

I'm not at home right now or I would be able to give you some sources for the material including channels, etc. Since these sources are not specifically " Marine" they are a lot more affordable than the Marine outfitters. I'll be back on June 2nd. and I can get for you at then or you can do a web search for UHMW sheet stock.

Cabela's also has them listed in their catalogs for use on bass boats, etc.

They also make good bunk strips for unloading/loading your boat on the trailer as they are self lubricating and pretty slick.

The material is workable with any woodworking tools.

You can make sheeves from it and rope stropped blocks easily. The link to a good set of instructions on doing so as well as some great photos is as follows: http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/woodenblocks/woodenblocks.htm

Phil Gowens has done so, as has Capt. Jake, although he hasn't put them on his boat. I am also doing so and will have them as my rigging when I launch.

You can get various wood species material from Lee Valley.

www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=43226&category=1,250,43217&ccurrency=2&SID=

UHMW sheets in various thicknesses from Lee Valley.

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=32045&category=3,43576,43581

They also carry the micro rasps that are used to shape the grooves in the sheeves.

The material is also available in various profiles including a half round that would work for rub rail use.

One other material that can be used for rub rails as well is the outdoor wood substitutes that are sold for deck use. They are essentially poly, wood shaped, colored and grained structural members. Home Depot, Lowes and most major box stores stock it in various sizes. This can also be cut and worked with wood working tools. Painted with latex paint if you don't have it too smooth before painting.

This same material could also be used for keel bottom edges to protect it and for bunks/keel channel on the trailer. NO worries about deterioration or painting.

[Jan Williamson]

I looked up some prices at a site www.interstateplastics.com They have a huge variety of thicknesses, and sheet sizes. They even have delrin, but of course after pricing it at over 850 bucks I settled for UHMW. For around 75 bucks or so, there would be enough to do the keel, bunks, and maybe the sheaves. Barry I saw the homemade blocks from the duckworth article. They seem time consuming but I sure like the salty look. Sure seem a lot more affordable too.

[Steve Downs]

Jan, they're almost free. It doesn't take much material, just scraps. I made my sheaves out of oak, probably should have used the plastic but they were so easy to make. If they don't work out (warping, etc) I can easily knock out the brass pin and replace them easily. I do think I'll take off the bright finish however and soak in boiled linseed oil. We must have salty.

[Jan Williamson]

Steve you made the sheaves out of oak too? I didn't realize that when you described it before. I am really jazzed about these now as I am getting closer to needing them... How is your boat coming along. I haven't seen any pics yet?

[Barry Pyeatt]

Sure they are a little time consuming, but then after I checked out the prices for even the least expensive of the traditional wooden blocks I decided that they would be a good project for me. Can't dance so I might as well do something while the music is playing.

I know quite a few people that have done this and it didn't take all that long to make enough plus a few spares for their boats.

If I were looking at a larger boat with a lot more rigging and with much higher loads then I probably wouldn't be looking at this.

[Jan Williamson]

Barry,

I am assuming this material does not take paint. But then again fish won't mind if it doesn't match. How do you think it would be best attached, I am thinking about the epoxy filled holes to screw into. Or embedding 1 1/2 bolts upsidedown into the keel for attachment. I wonder if anyone has any experience with epoxy filled holes as far as strength goes.

[JMetzner]

Jan,

I have a friend up here with an airboat. Nearly the entire bottom is

covered with a sheet of UHMW, maybe 5/8 to 3/4 inch thick. It takes a

serious beating. I believe he said it only needs to be changed out every

5 or 6 years. YMMV. I was out on his airboat once moose hunting and,

OH YEAH it takes a beating. Like going up a 4-5ft. beaver dam with 3

overweight men on board, wild ride.

You're right, I don't think there is ANY way to paint it.

--John M.

Fairbanks, AK.

[Frank Hagan]

Barry' date='

I am assuming this material does not take paint. But then again fish won't mind if it doesn't match. How do you think it would be best attached, I am thinking about the epoxy filled holes to screw into. Or embedding 1 1/2 bolts upsidedown into the keel for attachment. I wonder if anyone has any experience with epoxy filled holes as far as strength goes.[/quote']

I would go with screws into epoxy filled holes. That will prevent water infiltration into your keel where the screws go in. Epoxy with a pilot hole drilled into it would probably be stronger than the same pilot hole into wood fibers.

You couldn't paint UHWM plastic ... it would be like trying to paint a teflon pan. It machines well, and you can easily put a chamfer on the edges, put a quarter round edge on it, etc. Counter sinking for screws is easy too, with the same counter sinks you use on wood.

[Barry Pyeatt]

I believe that the material is applied to the glass boats with a double faced tape made by 3M. Sort of like a double faced duct tape but thinner. Peel off the protective film after laying it down on one surface and then stick to the other surface. Once stuck it is there until you use a release agent. I know we used some of the tape to attach trim to some boats and it was a tight bond until it came time to remove it and then the release agent was brushed onto the edge and it slowly peeled off, tape, adhesieve and all.

If the material you are using is less than about 1/4" thick you would find that bolting it to the keel would be a frustrating exercise as the heads would be nearly pulling thru the material. The strips for the boat keels is less than 1/4" thick.

If I'm not mistaken, the same strips are used on wind surfing boards as well and I think they are attached with a double faced tape too.

I'll look into the tape and release agent.

[Steve Downs]

Hi Jan, I'm still around. My boat is coming along but slowly. I'm going to put the sides on this Saturday and maybe get the cabin going. All the pictures are in the camera still. Someday I'll get them scanned and posted. I joined the other board and I'm having a boatshed at my place Saturday so I should have lots of help. I still enjoy lurking over here and keeping up with everyone's progress. Sounds like you are doing well and ready to get it wet before long. Glad your son got home without any visible damage. That has got to be a worry for parents. Good luck to you.

[Ken]

Jan, FYI - I picked up some UHMW almost for free on eBay - there are several sellers out there that buy scraps and surplus in various colors and it is very cheap - I just watched the auctions until one came up with the dimensions that I wanted. I picked up a piece of white 3"x4" x48" for under $10. I used strips of it for runners for the hatch cover - never have to lubricate this stuff - always "smooth sailing". It saws and shapes and planes very easily and with a chunk like I have, I have enough for several projects.

I made my sheaves out of mahogany and that's as far as I am with my blocks, but I think I will redo them with some of the extra UHMW I have. Has anyone made any wooden cheekblocks or is it just as easy to attach the standard blocks cheekstyle with screws?

Ken

[Jan Williamson]

Steve, good luck to you too, and come back with some pics when you get a chance. I just got going back on my boat, I did a few days this winter, but it got too hard heat to garage in the cold weather, and I had to wait for my son to come home too. I have the boat flipped and am doing the final sanding for paint. I have the top side almost ready to glass just having one more seat to install. I got the steering all set. But still have to shape the rudder.

Ebay huh? I'll have to take a look

Barry I am anxious to try the double faced tape. I was wishing there was a "carpet tape" you could use. Just the thought of not having to drill into that keel But if I had to I guess it is the epoxy filled holes.

[Jan Williamson]

Ken you were right look what I found, six pieces of 1/2 X 41/4 by 48 starting bid 39.00.

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[capt jake]

I just scanned this topic and I think it is great!

Virgin UHMW can be pricey! I know a fellow who deals in this. If intersted, send me an e-mail; I will put you in touch. No I am not in the middle of this either; just trying to help.

[Jan Williamson]

Jake, my husband just brought me a piece of UHMW apparently glass impregnated, that was being used on one of the machines at the mill. It is about 6 ft long, 1 ft wide, and 1/2 thick. It has a 4 inch hole in one spot where wood chips traveling at 9o MPH have been hitting for over 5 years, they decided to replace it and was going to throw this piece away Lucky me. So I think I have enough for the keel, I would like to find some black for the blocks. What did you make yours out of? thickness? Do you have any pics?

[capt jake]

I ended up not using the blocks I made, but I used 3/8" and 1/2" if memory serves me. I think there some pics in my Imagestation, jst looked, I don't have any. check out Phil's site. He has some pictures.

My neighbor also works for a mill and he has a pile of used UHMW, pretty worn though.

http://www.pragdata.com/philboat/ConBlocks.html

[Jan Williamson]

Thanks, I have been looking at Phil's inspiring site So how come you didn't use the blocks you made, just curious. They have to be beautiful if they are anything like your boat.