scarf jig

[adla]

Well, what i finally came up with for the scarf joint ~ i was boat blocked all week over it and resolved to try the table saw method when my brother offered his garage code to me...and then i printed the description Barry gave regarding a jig...and i built it backwards, or it seemed and so i changed it...and when i thought i was all set...off to my brother's i went to find that the jig wasn't aligning on his table saw. Miter slots on table saws aren't all created equally, his were narrower than mine ( i built the jig in my shop) and the blade was further from the miter slot *sigh*. So, with a few adjustments...blah blah blah

i haven't attempted to join the scarfed pieces yet. i read here that a lot of people like gorilla glue and my understanding of the stuff is that it is an expanding polyurethane (sp) glue and better on the sides of dowels or dados...epoxy has failed for a few people...what about tight bond yellow glue? or the plastic resin glue the Stevenson's reccommend for the stringers and other joints? mostly, i just don't want to go to the trouble of scarfing the joints to have them fail because i used the wrong glue....and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

a.

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[Charlie Jones]

I've had enough joint failures in my shop using Gorilla glue that I quit buying it. It's expensive and also has a very short shelf life once opened.

I build boats for a living and use epoxy on virtually everything. I've NEVER had a joint failure in a properly made up joint using epoxy.

I"ve used Resorcinal but that requires a very close fit in the joint and heavy clamping pressure. The Plastic resin is a good glue and I've also used TiteBond II on interior fittings such as cleats on settee tops, but NOT on load bearing structure. The TiteBond II is reasonably water resistant as long as it's not soaked for long periods.

Hard to really recommend a glue though because I don't know what you are gluing.

[adla]

i'm sorry Charlie, i should have mentioned that part. The glue question is for mahogany and the application is the inner and outer upper rub rail for the weekender.

i have been using west system epoxy (105 with the 206 slow hardner) and wonder if that is what you mean by epoxy? or like t 2 parter tube stuff that you pick up in the hardware big box?

thanks...for the help.

A.

[Charlie Jones]

West 105/206 is my normal epoxy. That's exactly what I'd use (and did use on a Weekender I built) for the rub rails. Mahogany and epoxy that is.

Just wet the wood with epoxy neat, rewet as it shows dry spots in the end grain, then recoat with epoxy with filler such as woodflour and clamp. Refrain from over clamping- that's pretty much the worse thing can be done on an epoxy joint other than not getting a good wetout. Over clamping forces the epoxy out of the joint and starves it. A good solid pressure is about all you really need to just hold every thing in contact. For things like rub rails I normally use spring clamps.

Should do well for you

Sometimes the clamping process can look like this though

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[Dave Fleming]

If you use something in the Plastic Resin family aka Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue remember you need quite a few clamps on the joint.

Snugged up pretty tight, though not as tight as when using the 'red stuff' aka Resorcinol Resin glue which also requires a constant temp above 70 degrees F..

My advice is, to follow Charles recommendation and use the Goo-Goo brothers stuff or similar.

[Kudzu]

My advice is' date=' to follow Charles recommendation and use the Goo-Goo brothers stuff or similar.[/quote']

I second this.

And if your go to there site they have an excellent tech. section. I just read a couple of days ago the most common reasons for joint failures. I have serious doubts it was because of heat. I doubt the joints (if properly done) got hot enough to fail.

[Greg Luckett]

Unlike Charlie, I still use Gorilla glue and have had no problems with joint failure on anything I have used it with. I buy small bottles because the shelf life is short. I always wet the areas to be glued...a critical step with using Gorilla glue. I mostly use it with stools and benchs I build and occasionally on detail parts for boats. My preferred glue for everything else is 105 epoxy and 206 hardner. The materials or type of woods to be bonded make a big difference as to which glue I use too. I have not tried Gorilla glue on any mahoganies, but it works well on Poplar, Red Oak, and most softwoods like pine or fir.

[adla]

i think to some degree i lost patience with the "top side". One scarf has been hand planed and glued up with epoxy. The wood had a little character so, instead of pvc pressure clamps, i used the ol' C clamp but was more than careful enough about not cinch'n it up tight...just let the epoxy get to the edge and "look" like it could squeeze out.

Turning the boat was easy peasy....i don't know why i didn't think it would be...another gal pal and i just sort of dropped it on it's side and let it set real nice and slow on the cabin....then rolled it over. i was in panic mode...but it was real easy and simple.

i used the power planer to clean up the keel and then the hand planer to make it right...the curve was done with the old "sure form shaper" and the curve on the keel was cut with the router.

i feel like i am back in business with the boat after a whole week of unwanted distractions!

A.

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[adla]

more pics

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[Greg Luckett]

Adla,

I am almost speechless about your boat building speed and ability. You are quite a lady!!!

Your boat building speed is another goal for me to strive for, along with making fillets as nice as Charlie's.

Thankyou for your continued sharing with us

Greg.

[Barry Pyeatt]

It is kinda go on faith. The techniques work as long as you work them. Agonizing over the next step is just part of the process for most of us.

In a way, I'm like you in pre-playing the process and seeing the potential issues that may arise. Mot often though it is just as easy as most any other task, just have to go ahead and "Just do it!"

Capt Jake had a scarf failure with epoxy, but I believe that he may have starved the joint of epoxy by clamping too tight. I've never had one fail, doesn't seem to matter if it is Plastic Resin, Resourcinal, or epoxy. If you cut them correctly and align them and then clamp according to the type of adhesive you are using, it will probably be fine.

But you seem to have broken thru the deadlock and you're moving forward.

Got to keep on going! :wink:

[adla]

thanks Greg..if it hadn't been for that *@%$ letter word WORK...i would have done more last week. today, i went ahead and got the plans for the navigator...i can see it now: my tomb stone will read...she was a good un' a nice un'...built a bunch a boats and never sailed un'....

a.

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[Dave Ruedel]

Wow! I left town for a couple of weeks, and you have your boat 3/4 completed!! With out of town work and winters to hamper me, it took two years to build my vacationer. (I did do the PC in 5 months, working and going to college full time.) It looks great.

On Gorilla glue, I've always had good luck with it. Like noted above, I wet the surfaces. Just for kicks, I even did a few joints with the wood submersed in a tub, and it the glue set and held underwater. Just don't open more than you can use in a month, as it will harden on the shelf once it is opened.