glass cloth on top

[Arnie Eaton]

Scuppers are just holes thru the upper side wall to let any water on deck to drain. They must be level or slightly below level to really work. Abouut two or three inches long and about 3/4" high. You will need 3 or 4 along the area of the cabin rear maybe 2 feet apart (the lowest part of the deck)

If your sides at the top are flush with the deck, no scuppers are needed. (or possible). Some builders have just a 1x2 along the deck edge as a toe kick. If you do that, just leave small sections off so thw water on deck can drain. On my Vacationer, I ran the sides up above the deck edge about 2.5 inches, then glued and screwed 3/4 X 1.5 stock along the top on both sides. The one on the outside is a rubrail and the one inside is a toekick. Nice to have when the deck is wet, might save a dunking.

[capt jake]

Here is a picture of what I did. I have no idea whether they are in the right location, but I think they are pretty close.

[adla]

i think i understand the scuppers now..but i have a rubrail question. I have planed down one side of these mahogany boards and ripped 2 inch pieces to be the inner rub rail...when i did a test fit i noticed that the inner edge would probably look nice rounded so i ran the router on it and rounded it...so far so good. I marked it live when it was on the boat for the rabbet but wondered if it wouldn't be better just to rabbet out an equal amount (which may give me gaps as i go) Also, because the sides don't stick up that much above the deck in a few select places, i was thinking about making the outer rubrail 2 1/2 inches so that i would get good coverage (outer rubrail wider than inner one ) i get the feeling the rubrail will take me 6 weeks :x . i will say that i don't inted to scarf. where the 14 foot board ends i will make the deck flush with the sides and do a side taff (taff???) rail and a back one...no scarfing..i want to go sailing not build a watch.

a.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Scarf the rail, far easier than doing the other and a lot more practical. Took me probably 20 min to make a sliding 8:1 jig for the table saw. And maybe 10 minutes to make the cuts. Epoxy a couple small screws to hold it in alignment while the epoxy sets and Viola' full length plus rub rails.

You will be amazed at how things tend to find the open areas on a boat to bang into. Particularly along the sides at the deck line. :shock:

[Barry Pyeatt]

I can't conceive of anything taking you 6 weeks.

[adla]

you're right...i was just outside kicking dirt...looking at the whole boat..i bothered to get mahogany for the rubrail...i need to just make the jig and scarf... 8 : 1 ? did you make a box (like the old miter box) and do the scarf that way?

what about the rabbet? would you use the plunge router and take it out carefully to the live mark or just cut an equal amount out?

this rubrail has me really NEEDY..sorry. my helper went home hours ago..it is just me and the wind and all this sawdust.

a

[Barry Pyeatt]

I took a piece of ply about 12X18 and screwed a 24" piece of approx 1X2 on edge to it at an 8:1 angle to the cut edge. Then screwed a length of scrap along the bottom that was sized to fit the slot in the table and it was ready to go. I clamped the pieces to be cut together against the angled fence and ran them thru the saw. Done deal.

I ran the rails thru the table saw and just cut the rabit that way. But I also have a router table that I could have used.

I suppose I could have used the hand held and a fence but it was simply a matter of firing up the table saw for me. Faster and more accurate.

[Kudzu]

Scarfing will save you problems down the road.

I have never tried this but I see no reason that you couldn't clamp the pieces together. Let them overlap 3-4". Then mark you out the scarf angle and cut them. By cutting them at the same time I see no reason it wouldn't mate up very well. And it should be very quick to do.

If you concerned tack down a guide block to run your circular saw fence against.

[Knut]

I just want to add to the scuppers issue mentioned in several posts already. My rubrail was about 1 1/2 inch higher than the deck from bow to stern. I did NOT add any scuppers in the haste of getting finished and get on the water.

The first tarp I had was not of a real watertight quality and at one stage I was travelling for more than 4 weeks and in this period it rained hard in Miami. When I finally got back and checked the boat there was standing water on the deck low points and it had been there for weeks. After a couple of more weeks and partly under direct sunshine it became evident that humidity had gotten behind the coat and glassing. About a hand-size area was delaminated on each side.

STRONG RECOMMENDATION (if you have a toe-rail): Add scuppers :!: :?

[adla]

i'm sold on the scuppers...i am doing a splash coming along the whole length of the cockpit too...the dryer the better.

i've chilled 8) out on the rub rail :evil:

i am going to have to scarf them some other way than my table saw...it is crammed in a 10x12 space can't handle the long boards. i knew the rubrails would present an issue for me. i have also decided to use the 2 inch boards that are cut and rounded on one side for the outside rubrail and the inside one will be 1 1/2....

one can only have lunch in the cabin so many times before wanting to dunk the boat.

thanks for the help..now *chilling*

a.

[capt jake]

one can only have lunch in the cabin so many times before wanting to dunk the boat.

thanks for the help..now *chilling*

Ahhh!!! the chillin' part I know!!! Almost two years since I started the project, and still not wet! I am getting pretty giddy about now!

Hang in there, at your building rate I estimate you will launch on May 25th, plus or minus a year or two. ;) Nope plus or minus a few weeks! :) :)

[Barry Pyeatt]

Can you turn the table saw or otherwise orient it so that the boards will stick out the door to fee?

Don't want to really consider this seriously as an option, but here goes.

I have a friend that build a 55' ketch in his basement. Didn't have room to work with long pieces when cutting them either so he worked with short pieces to cut them and then joined them together in his longer "assembly" room. But then he had to knock out the end of his basement to get the boat out too. :shock:

OK Adla,

Got a circular saw? Sure you do. Cut them to approximately the right angle with your saw. Then lay them side by side between two blocks cut to the right angle (with your table saw). Then take your belt sander and bring them to the finished profile (carefully) so you don't take down the blocks as well.

If you have a jack plane you can do the same thing and it will be even better. Let the sole of the plane ride on the blocks and cut the material between them.

Just clamp everything inplace until you're finished cutting.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Cut the blocks at the 8:1 ratio. Then attach them to a longer board to support the rails being cut. The angle can be fine tuned to match the angle on the jig.

[attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

[Frank Hagan]

We have a short article on scarfing the rub rails using a table saw or hand plane at Scarfing the Rubrails

I built my own tapering jig from two pieces of scrap with a hinge at the back, and then tacked a spreader piece across them when I had the right amount of taper. Determining how to set the taper isn't hard ... I marked the rub rails 12" back from the end, and put one corner against the table saw blade. Sighting down the rubrail, I then angled the rubrail so the blade would cut from the corner to the opposite side and exit where the mark was. Set the tapering jig next to the angled rubrail, tack it in place, and move the fence into place. Once you have the taper set, you can cut all 4 pieces and they will fit together perfectly.

Or you can build the tapered box to use with a hand plane.

[Kudzu]

Alda, you don't need to use your table saw. Just use a hand saw or circular saw. Clamp the peices together as I show in sketch. By cutting the two at the same time you should get a good mate. Just cut as straight as you can. If you use your circular saw clamp on a straight edge and run your shoe of your saw against it.

If you have a hand plane (I love hand planes!) you can touch the joint up if needed. If not course sandpaper on a block of wood will work.

[Tom Holder]

Look at that! There's what I like - a simple solution! And a picture. Thanks Kudzu - you gave me my "one thing to file away" today :wink:

[Phil Gowans]

Adla, scarf your rails, just make sure you have enough overlap - 1:8 minimum. There's a lot of bending force on the rubrails. Some people have had their joints fail. I was going to suggest the same idea as Kudzu. I've not done it myself, but have heard good success that way before.

Here's another picture of scuppers. Mine are quite small - I didn't want them to be seen much. Infact you can't see them on the outside at all. Even at that they don't clog. I've put scuppers elsewhere on the boat where water might accumulate and can be drained off - sometimes just a 1/4 inch hole.

[adla]

thanks for the pic Kudzu (jeff?)...that did it. I had envisioned a box like jig but thought there had to be a way to do it or mark it without one. The works...will use a had saw and plane. I cut pretty straight with the circular saw (no problems ripping the mahogany) but think that cut is a bit delicate. The pictures really help. Thanks for the photos of the scuppers Phil, I'm sold. I'm still chillin on the project...ganna try the scarf on some scrap this evening.

A.

[Kudzu]

Phil, I love the scuppers! They look perfect on there! And nice looking bright work too.

Adla, (yes it's Jeff) Glad I could help. I just wish scarfing plywood was as easy. :-)

And glad to hear you have and use a hand plane too. I love hand tools, especially hand planes. I will often use a hand plane when I could do it quicker another way just because I can use my plane. I just bought three old Stanley's off of Ebay. Have to clean and sharpent hem but very anxious to try them out.

I am not a patient person but give me a sharp well tuned plane I can just take my time and make excelsior with it. :wink: I will let you look that one up.

BTW, once I get my shop set up I am going to name it Excelsior Woodworks. Humm.... I have been looking for a name for my new boat..... maybe?

[adla]

i do have a hand plane...i wouldn't consider myself a virtuoso with it...but like a good portion of my final sanding...doing things by hand is the only way to go.

i plan to scarf the rubrails together today...i should let them sit 48 hours before i try to bend them into place, eh? i plan to use the weldwood plastic resin glue unless otherwise persuaded. i usually use a yellow wood glue for joinery...and the gorilla glue for places i want the glue to expand...

a.