Cable clamps question

[Mike Henderson (Oregon)]

Okay, no such think as a dumb question: My Weekender plans say I need 3/16" cable clamps. Wouldn't that be a bit large for 1/8" cable?

[Barry Pyeatt]

Not really! I think it also calls for Vinyl coated cable. The coating makes up the difference.

[Mike Henderson (Oregon)]

okay - the cable is 1/8" and the sheathing brings it up to 3/16. Got it. Thanks, Barry!

[Barry Pyeatt]

You should be getting pretty close to a launch by now Mike. How is it coming? Haven't seen any new photos for awhile now.

[Frank Hagan]

There have been some failures of the larger cable clamps with the less expensive cable and white plastic sheath. I'm not sure they still make the stuff they way they used to!

I used stainless steel shrouds; my log of costs shows I bought 70' of the 7x19 1/8" stainless wire at West Marine during one of their 10% off sales. It was .62/foot, or a total of $43.47. I consider it money very well spent!

They also sell stainless cable clamps, which are nice for the lower end near the chainplates. The galvanized work fine up above, as they don't get salt spray.

[Mike Henderson (Oregon)]

I'm thinking of an August launch. We (Dad helped) painted the hull a couple weeks ago and are ready to flip it again. My project this week is painting inside the forward hatch area. I'm not one of those paint it before it's put together sorts. (wish I was) I've got a primer coat in there and that went okay. I just sit on the floor with my head and body up through the hatch. Not a lot of elbow room in there. White elbows. It's better than hangin' up side down in there. I am planning on painting under and behind the seats before I finish those, however.

Lots to do and purchase so I've been planning ahead for expenditures around vacation and other plans this summer in hopes the 1st Mate doesn't mutiny on the project in the 3rd year. I still need to glass the topsides and paint those, of course. Blocks, Rope, Motor, Bat., lights, assorted hardware, etc...etc...

Thanks for asking Barry. I read you're down to the last days on the Islands. That's too bad but home is a good place and sometimes better after a long time away.

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[Mike Henderson (Oregon)]

are stainless steel shrouds vinyl-sheathed? Or would that be unnecessary?

[Barry Pyeatt]

Cable is available either way. The advantage to getting it sheathed is that you have a built-in anti-chafe shield on the shrouds. Otherwise you would want to add the shields to keep the sails from getting all roughed up and gray where they rub on the shrouds. Same with your lines that get pulled across them. The sheathing helps protect the lines.

Ask Capt. Jake about adding them. He had a wonderful time putting them on. :roll:

But then if he gets this new tractor of his going, he won't have any time to get his boat wet this year. :wink:

Been gone for awhile, but then that was the plan. Will be good to get back home again. But very hard to leave here. :wink: Been a long time since I've had a chance to work on my Weekender as well. But I'm determined to have it in the water this summer too.

[Mike Henderson (Oregon)]

Barry,

I think It was you that suggested Kevlar on the chines and keel. Here's a couple pics. I'm pleased with how it turned out.

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[MikeStevenson]

Frank is right: Coated cable used to be good stuff from non-boating sources. Perhaps not so much now. Make sure it's really biting the cable well!

Mike

[Phil Gowans]

Don't forget to strip the sheathing where you intend to clamp. The cable clamps will slip otherwise - at least they did for me. The guy at the boat store also said that they weren't intended to work over sheathing. I decided to avoid the problem and swage.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Very nice Mike. The kevlar tape looks as if it was no challenge at all. Far easier than trying to work with the fabric and cutting it.

Nice job on the paint. Good color, it should be a very nice looking project. Definitely a keeper.

It's nice to see that your Dad could be in there helping. I started mine with my dad, although we knew he wouldn't be rhere for the finish. He helped as he could and then would sit and watch for as long as he could stay awake. It was good to have him participate since he got involved iwth me inbuilding boats when I was about 9 years old. I think he would have liked to have sailed on it too.

[Mike Henderson (Oregon)]

Don't forget to strip the sheathing where you intend to clamp...I decided to avoid the problem and swage.

Swage? I'm gonna have to look that one up.

So, If I strip the sheathing (sounds like a good tip) I would use 1/8" cable clamps rather than 3/16"?

[Mike Henderson (Oregon)]

It's nice to see that your Dad could be in there helping.

Yeah, he's been really into the whole thing. (and a big help) I blame him somewhat for planting the seed for building a sailboat. I remember as a kid, Dad saying on numerous occassions (jokingly) that he was going to build a sailboat and sail away to Tahiti. He never build a boat. Now, me having become my father, frequently say: "I'm going to build a sailboat and sail to Tahiti!" Now, I'm a dreamer on the sailing to Tahiti part but I am building a sailboat and who knows, maybe someday I'll build a larger boat for the voyage.

[capt jake]

FWIW, I went with 1/8" SS and 1/8" clamps. I then coverved the cable with the split vinyl covering for shrouds ( a buggar to put on!). I am happy with the way it looks, performance, well I need to get it wet!

[Phil Gowans]

Swages are soft metal ovals that fit 2 cables. These can be "swaged" with a "swaging tool" - a device that presses the sides of the swage around the cables. This is a standard way of connecting cables and is semi permanent. It is best to make 2 pressings on each swage. The store that sold me the cable allowed me to use their heavy duty swager for free at their shop. They rent it for over night. You can buy a small one for around $10.

I'm not sure what size clamp fits what size cable, but make sure they are not going to slip. Your store should be able to suggest the right size.

[MikeStevenson]

If you're going to swage your cables (and it's a very good way to conect them), you need to know a few things: Get the copper swaging ovals or stops, not aluminum. Oval swages are for attaching two wires (like when you make a loop around a thimble-which you should always use-and the wire backs up on itself.) Stops are just a circular sleeve which can be swaged on a wire to hold the end in a special fitting, and of almost no use on our boats (the only thing I can think of is in making ratlines.)

When you swage an oval, make sure the thimble is tight in the loop, but not up against the oval (close though.) Use three "squishes" on an oval if you're doing it by hand (either using the big bolt-cutter-like swaging tool or the type where you tighten two bolts until it's smooshed.) If you have access to an hydraulic swager, those can do the whole oval in one press.

If you use only two hand squishes on an oval, you may not get a good grip, and using only one squish is less secure than a cable clamp and will likely fail. If you use a vise or pliers (or any other tool than a real swaging tool), you WILL have a failure. Please squeeze these right.

Swages are a one-time deal. There's no going back and it's very hard to un-do one. You'll probably mess up the wire if you try and get it out by cutting off the sleeve (oval.)

Another alternative are the Norseman swageless terminals. These are cool, and we used them on the Valkyrie so we could make our own rigging without having to swage 1/2" or 3/8" wire. The terminals are made so that you open the end of the wire a little, slip in a sleeve, then tighten up the whole terminal and everything gets bent and grabbed and it's at least as strong as a swaged end. But you can take them apart and re-use the terminal (you lose the part of the wire which was bent maybe, and I think you're supposed to use a new center bit.) Useful to know about though.

Mike

[Phil Gowans]

If you use only two hand squishes on an oval' date=' you may not get a good grip, and using only one squish is less secure than a cable clamp and will likely fail. [/quote']

Thanks for clarifying that. I only did it once and over 3 years ago. Now that you mention it, in trying to visualize mine they do have 3 squishes on them. A cable failure would not be fun. I did have a bolt come off one of my deadeyes ones while out. Luckly it released on the leeward side and I was able to follow the same tack back to the dock.

[Scott Dunsworth]

Mike I don't know anything about cables, but I do know that hull looks nice and fair. Very slick looking, hope my Belhaven looks that good when the paint goes on in a few weeks. Great job!!

Scott