Fairing / feathering tape edges.

[Scott Dufour]

Could you guys share your techniques for smoothing the edges of the tape lines? I've read a bunch of different ideas and I've tried some but with little satisfaction. Here's the options I've tried:

1. Sand the edges after the first epoxy has set up enough. It's easy to take the bulky edges down then, but it does have the tendency to dig into the wood next to the tape edge. Also, I think the tape has the tendancy to lift slightly so subsequent epoxy layers show that a little air has snuck under the tape and left little square bubbles.

2. Sand and feather the edges after most of the weave has been filled with multiple epoxy coatings. This has similar, though lessened, issues with the above technique, but requires a lot of sandpaper

3. Fill the weave with thickened epoxy epoxy extending the filler well past the edge, similar to what I do with drywall and sheetrock taping work. The trouble is that the thickened epoxy can't be finished bright, but it sure does look smooth.

How do you pros do it?

[Melissa Goudeseune]

My tip: don't use sandpaper.

I'm most of the way through working the fillets on my mini-paw. The single most useful tool for this has been a carbide scraper. Here's the scaper I'm using:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=20095

The huge benefit here is that the scraper produces shavings instead of dust, and it doesn't load up like sandpaper. Also, you can easily see what you're doing, so there's less chance of accidentally going too deep.

I would say that this tool has saved me many hours already on this dinghy.

Michel

[Roger Peterson]

I use cheap single edge razor blades from Harbor Freight. I get them on sale for 99cents per 100 in a black box.(I use about two boxes per boat) I scrape the tape edges when still green from the installation (before the filler coat). The blades produce a nice feather edge without a lot of work. The blades don't last long but at less than a penny each,I don't mind the cost. When complete, you can't find the tape edge and you can finish bright! I would think you could get the same results with the carbide scraper and it would be easier in your hands, I just never thought about it. See, This forum is a great place to learn new tricks!

Roger

[mustangermatt]

I do about the same as Ray except that to finish bright I lightly sand the edge so a squeegy doesn't bounce on it, and use partially thickened epoxy. I stretch the epoxy out six inches or so on either side of the tape to fair it in well.

[Charlie Jones]

I use the short pocket plane Surform tool to clean fiberglass edges. Hit 'em while the resin is still green, then add a second coat of resin.

[Barry Pyeatt]

One thing to remember is that as the epoxy cures it shrinks. Over several months it will continue to shrink. That will further expose (telegraph) the weave of the glass. I would also be careful about abraiding the fibers of the glass with a sander if you are wanting a "brite" finish. Any abraided glass will not be as clear as the cut ends so it will most likely look cloudy/milky under the finish where you sanded it. Just something to think about.

[capt jake]

I had thought that epoxy that is 100 % solids did not shrink.

It WILL shrink, and it WILL telegraph the weave through. After just a few hours in the sun it will show.

[Gordy Hill]

Just a note guys....

Everything I finished bright eventually got painted.

Even with UV filter varnish over the epoxy I found the okume changed color. It was really noticeable when I removed a fitting.

Coamings and trim look great bright. Plywood always looks like plywood.

Really really nice plywood is still just plywood. It took a long time, but I finally decided that even nice plywood looks nicer, more elegant, and more professional with a good paint job.

........just my opinion

[Scott Dufour]

Thanks for all the replies, gentlemen. I think I'll pick up one of the scapers Michael recommended and give it a try.

Gordy, thanks for the input on bright plywood finishing. I've been wondering whether it was really worth the effort to try to meet the brightwork standard, and I think you just let me off the hook.

[Garry]

I agree. I've never seen plywood finished bright that looked good to me.

[Charlie Jones]

Third vote for painting plywood. Plywood, even Okume, is plywood. I like the interiors painted light with bright trim. All bright interiors begin to look and feel like a cave on rainy days