Melissa Goudeseune

Yes they are.

I'd like to update my Penobscot rebuild threads so the images actually show again. That said, I have 460 images, and I'm not looking forward to editing my posts one by one. I have the photos liberated from photobucket, so the filenames can stay the same. Is there some way to upload the lot of them to messing-about and rename the links?

I have a very related question, so I'll be bold and resurrect this thread :-). I'm planning to build a Princess 26 a few years from now. In the meantime, I'm still sailing my Tanzer 22. I'm looking to re-power the Tanzer this winter, and would prefer if I can swap the motor over when the time comes. I've seen one posting that the shaft-length option for an outboard in a well on the P26 is short (15 inches). What I'm wondering is... can I get away with a 20" shaft length? That's my target for the Tanzer. Any thoughts appreciated! Melissa

Can you post a version without sound? Thanks!

I pulled the boat out of the workshop to work on the masts and rigging. First, the mizzen: Next, the gaff-rigged main: And finally... the boat's new name: "The Imperial Shag is a black and white cormorant...", which is a nod to her previous name. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imperial_Shag

Varnished nameboards were installed: The name is coming... soon .

The trailer frame was much too narrow to adequately support the hull with the existing bunk brackets. I decided to make new brackets and mount them diagonally. I punched each bracket with locating marks. Below: RR (Right Rear) This is the hull, supported by my gantry crane while both bunk boards are being installed:

New trailer wiring and lights was installed. I wired the harness first, and then fished it through the trailer frame. Ground wires were installed to each lamp. The wooden bilge pump being glued together. This is the two halves being joined. The outlet is a piece of PVC conduit, which will discharge into the centreboard trunk.

I installed flared copper bushings for the mast sheaves, as well as the lashing points on the other spars. The first flare was done with a typical plumber's flaring tool. The second flare was done with a jig I built -- two tapered steel rods on a 5/16" bolt.

I welded a new winch bracket / bow stop for the trailer: I also welded some custom tie-down brackets that fit around the trailer frame:

New floorboards were made. They were engraved on the bottom face to mark position and orientation. Only four floorboards are now used. They're all barely able to fit between the seats, so no multi-part sections or barrel bolts are used. Test-fitting the wooden bilge pump: Painting the floorboards:

Seat fronts were cut by hand out of 1/4" Baltic Birch. Hand-holds for installation were cut on the MechMate, as were identifying labels on the reverse side. Stiffening ribs were installed to the inside face:

I did some work on the trailer -- renewing rusty mounting bolts and straightening a few parts. I also took off the wheels and hubs to inspect them. Glad I did, too. Some of the wheel bolts were torqued past 110 ft-lbs, and the right side cotter pin in the castle nut was not secured -- it was too short to bend the legs over. Professional trailer shop, hmph. Also visible is the recently-painted sheer strake in dark green.

This is a continuation of my Penobscot 17 rebuild. The first thread has been archived: http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/7959-penobscot-17-rebuild/ I've made considerable progress, getting close to launch. Carving nameboards on the MechMate: Painting the deck:

The existing transom knees were oak. I wasn't happy with the irregular shape, or the grain running in the wrong direction (fore-aft). Knees should have the grain at a 45-degree angle across the joint. I decided to make new knees from plywood. While hardwood is preferable, 1-1/4" thick Baltic Birch should suffice in this application. Here is one of the new knees next to the old ones: The simplest way to shape the knees was using my MechMate CNC router. I designed the shape and cut it out of 1/2" plywood. An oversize piece of 3/4" ply was glued to each knee. After the glue dried, the excess was cut away with a mitre saw (straight cuts) and a flush-cut router bit (rounded edge). To match the bevel at the transom, I clamped a piece of wood next to the knee, and measured the angle. These cuts were made on the mitre saw, with the workpiece very securely clamped. Test fitting the knees, and deciding on a location for the stern cleats: The mounting screws were installed from outside, including on the transom. With the transom painted, there was no need to avoid recessed hardware on the transom face. The knees, glued in place. The two small holes are for the mizzen sheet bridle. The patterns of four holes are for the stern cleats. The one large hole is for the stern navigation light.