minipaw #550 goes 3D!

[Melissa Goudeseune]

Great progess this Christmas vacation... my dinghy just went 3D!

I've attached a few pics of the boat, and have some questions. So far, it's stitched together, but the bow transom is being very difficult.

The stern and sides have lined up without too much effort, but I've got a couple of large gaps at the bow transom. See the red circled areas in the first photo.

Any suggestions on how to pull the panels together? I've already snapped a number of wire ties in the process.

Michel

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[John Burritt]

Michel - I would start by comparing the dimensions of the bow transom with the widths of the bottom and side panels. For example, the keel to chine distance on the transom should match the width of the bottom panel minus the thickness of the side panel. The "vertical" dimension should match the side height. I'd also check the overall dimensions of the transom against the plans. Doublecheck the perpendicular height (depth?) from the chine point to the keel (center) point. It may be just the angle of the picture, but it looks high compared to the bottom panels. Good luck.

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

If all you dimensions are correct...the plywood will get used to its flexed position and you should be able to pull it together easier with time. You might need more ties to bring it together.

[Joe Nelson CS#35]

Also, it is my guess that it would be easier to attach all the panels to the bow/transom first and then stitch your way to the back of the boat. But you will need more ties where the most stress will be, or you will tear them out. You should have ties about every 2" on the most stressed areas. Make sure your holes are back from the plywood edge 1.5 times the thickness of the plywood.

[Melissa Goudeseune]

I've checked the measurements carefully, and the bow transom dimensions are the same length as the mating edges on the bottom and sides. There's just a funny gap at the bow, and everything is VERY tight already.

The instructions say to start at the stern and work forwards, which is what I did. I suppose I could unwire the bottom, and re-do it, working back from the bow. Any thoughts?

About the number of wire ties: I've doubled the number on the forward third of the hull, where everything bends inwards to the bow transom. They're spaced every 3 inches, instead of every 6 inches elsewhere.

Michel

[Roger Peterson]

Sometimes it helps to loosen the ties all around then tighten the wires in small increments all around to let the plywood get used to being bent. It's been flat since it was manufactured and it doesn't want to form into a tight curve. :twisted:

I found if I tighten the wires and let the boat sit a couple of hours, I can go back and tighten the wires again and the "large gaps" will begin to close up.

The panels will adjust themselves to a fair curve if you let the stresses in the wood relax. :wink:

Roger

[Charlie Jones]

Looks like the side panel is too low. When I built my Mini, I wired the bottom to the bow transom, then went up the side with the side/transom join.

I suspect the problem is because the side panel being wired to the side of the bow transom is holding the bottom away.

[Melissa Goudeseune]

Good news. I did some minor adjustments to the center line (ran the jigsaw down the gap a couple of times, to help the bottom panels line up better).

Also removed the bow transom, and reinstalled it starting with the wire ties, instead of with the mounting screws. The result is that it lines up *much* better than before!

Check out the pics -- what an improvement.

I'll turn the boat over tomorrow and start glassing the inside.

Michel

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[Charlie Jones]

looking much better.

By the way- do plan to add some floatation to the boat. It will not float full of water and a person. I added blocks of foam under each side of the rowing thwart and another block under the stern thwart.

We tow our Mini behind our small sloop and it's much safer with some foam in it also.