The old one pot vs. two pot paint question

[Richard Whitney CS#70]

I have reached the stage of putting undercoat on - the decision point on one pot vs. two pot paint. Everything I read here steers me in the direction of two pot (What is called International Reaction Lacquer here - same brand as Interlux). When I go into the show and talk to the technical people they are steering me towards Brightside and saying if I have not done alot of painting I will have difficulty with the two pot paint.

Any tips/suggestions would be appreciated. Those that have used the roller and brush method with two pot - any hints on the best way to go about this.

Thank you in anticipation.

[Charlie Jones]

I've used Brightsides on four boats now, and I'm sorry I ever found the stuff. I found it hard to get good coverage, and especially so rolling. I've also been quite disappointed with the durability. I've found it very easy to scratch and or mar. The only way I could get good consistent coverage with Brightsides, particularly in darker colors, was to spray it.

On the other hand, I've sprayed two pot on five boats now. It's not particularly hard to work with but spraying it does require good respirators - it's not nice stuff. Two of those boats have lived out doors exposed to our south Texas sun for over 6 years now and are still quite glossy. Of the other three, one is over 4 years old ,one other is still new, and the last is being sprayed right now- second coat goes on today . Very durable stuff, but as I said- requires excellent respirators or it can make you very ill.

I've seen one 36 footer done two pot using the "roll and tip" method. It came out really well and that was done by a total amateur. I've never done it myself, but I've been told that by the second coat you'll have the technique down pat. One good point about the technique is that you don't need the level of respirator that you need for spraying. You don't atomize the material. Much safer.

Graham and I were talking the other day and he mentioned a two part epoxy paint made by Glidden that I intend to try very soon. You might look into that while you are looking. Don't know if Glidden markets in NZ but I'm sure you can find out.

If I didn't have spray equipment, I think I'd lean towards the two pot paints, rolled and tipped; or the epoxy paints Graham talked about.

Good luck with your project.

[Brent]

After discussing paint on the forum and with other folks I went for roll and tipping two part paint (interlux) for the hull and deck and Brightside on the interior. I must echo Charlie's comments about Brightside, I am not happy with the results and if I had to do it over I would go with Interlux throughout.

Starting as a rank amateur I quickly figured out how to get good results with the Interlux; a good quality undercoat sanded smooth and then dont be shy with the thinner while putting on the two part paint. I thinned the horizontal surfaces less than the vertical surfaces. Like the man said, by the second coat I had it down.

I had heard that the two part paints were more difficult to work. I did not find this to be the case. Aside from having to measure and mix, and in the case of the primer wait for an induction period, the painting process is the same as one part paint.

[John Burritt]

I have had very good luck with the two part polyurethanes. I happen to prefer Awl Grip (US Paints) to Interlux. I think its easier to work. Rolling and tipping works well. One trick is to tip vertical surfaces up and down to minimize any shadows from lines left by the brush. We have found some small very fine foam rollers about one inch in diameter by four inches long that are superior to regular foam rollers. When the mix is right, it almost doesn't need tipping. My experience has been that two coats over a good even primer base looks pretty good, but a third coat makes it outstanding. Another trick is to follow the last colored coat with a coat of clear. Really adds depth to the look - especially with darker colors.

While rolling and tipping produces much less vapors than spraying, be sure to have plenty of ventilation.

[John Yow]

Speaking of the Glidden paint, I also talked to Graham. My understanding was that it was more for the cockpit of the boat.

Since my conversation with him, I have been trying to locate a Glidden store that carries the two part epoxy paint. It is my understanding that Glidden was taken over by ICI Paint Company. I talked to one of their stores that supplies refineries, petrochemical plants and offshore rigs. The salesman recommended a two part product called Devra 224. Has anyone had experience with this one?

Thanks,

John

[Richard Whitney CS#70]

Thanks for you help guys. I will have a go with the two pot.

[John Burritt]

I believe the two-part epoxy paint is a Dulux product (another company owned by ICI). They make several epoxy paints. I can get you the product # if you're interested. (Its in the shop and I'm not) I've used it on a couple of boats, once in the cockpit and once both inside and out. I got sort of a satin textured finish both times - ok in the cockpit, but not so great on the exterior. Even heavily thinned, it sets up very quickly so it pretty much precludes tipping. People with more experience than me say that it will eventually get chalky, as it is an epoxy apparently without much UV inhibitor. Even though the finish has some texture, its still very slick. The cockpit sole still needs a nonskid additive. This paint's big advantages are that it is dramatically cheaper than two-part polyurethane and it doesn't contain isocyanates (the bad stuff in the polyurethane).

[John Yow]

John, thanks for your response about the Dulux paint. I would appreciate the number when you have time. It sounds like just what I want for the cockpit. Does it flow, ie can I put it on with a brush or roller?

Thanks,

John Yow

[John Burritt]

Oops! :oops: Its a Devoe product - same company group. Devoe 4508. Need to get both the paint and converter. Our local store will split a gallon of paint into quarts and tint them differently. Don't know if others would be so willing. I put it on with a small roller after thinning the mix significantly. If you're careful you can avoid roller tracks. As with many epoxy paints, this has an induction period after mixing, so check the directions.

[mustangermatt]

One of the last jobs I had on a ship before switching careers was mate aboard the WC Park Responder, a 240 ft oil spill response vessel. We used a two part paint (interlux I think) on the mooring bits and chalks which got VERY severe wear from mooring lines. The paint held on AMAZINGLY well.