waynemunro Posted October 15, 2003 Author Posted October 15, 2003 Interesting that your motor is designed for an angled transom Brian. I took a good look at mine (3hp Yamaha) yesterday and I am pretty sure that it is designed to be mounted on a vertical bracket. bought some aluminium today, hope to whip up a bracket tonight. The plan is that by making it myself I can tailor it to exactly my requirements, and therefore have it a little smaller. Only time will tell however. Quote
waynemunro Posted October 15, 2003 Author Posted October 15, 2003 ok, below should be a picture of my first attempt at a mounting bracket. I have put the holes in the lifting piece int he wrong place, so i will have to make another one tommorow, luckily I have plenty of leftover metal. I was planning to mount it level, using a wooden wedge to build it out from the transom. However having made it and held it up againt the boat, I can see the merits in mounting it at right angles to the transom face. Thanks to those above who planted the idea about mounting it straight out I noticed that there is an adjustment on the motor so I can set it to be fully down when vertical, despite the mount being angled.. I guess all motors have these. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote
Brian Matthews Posted October 15, 2003 Posted October 15, 2003 Nice job on the bracket! One problem I am having is that the motor vibrates the boat at wider throtlle opening. Idle and about half speed are tolerable in the cockpit but inside the cabin is quite noisy with all that thin plywood. To try to fix this I made some rubber pads on the mount to try to isolate the vibration. Outside the cabin it worked well and the vibration that could originally feel on the wood was almost gone, but in the cabin it was worse! It seems that the rubber isolation changed the vibration freaquency giving the interior a terrible low pitch drumming. Would a second set of rubber isolaters, perhaps where the bracket attaches to the transom, reduce this? Quote
capt jake Posted October 16, 2003 Posted October 16, 2003 Wayne, that mount is almost the spittin' image of the one I built. A few told me they didn't think it would be strong enough for teh lateral forced when the motor may be turned. Soo, I haven't mounted it yet. I would love to hear teh results of your when you get it done, then maybe I will dust mine off and forge ahead. Quote
waynemunro Posted October 16, 2003 Author Posted October 16, 2003 I'll be sure to let you know how it goes, though i have every confidence. Mine is much chunkier than the commercial ones, that ali is 65mm wide with a 6mm wall thickness. I am confident that it will work fine. the proof however will be in the pudding, and launch day is sat week. so stay tuned Quote
capt jake Posted October 16, 2003 Posted October 16, 2003 Sounds great!!. I don't have any photos of the mount I built. I think Barry may have some, as he took some and the Olympia Wooden Boat Festival. Quote
waynemunro Posted October 20, 2003 Author Posted October 20, 2003 things seem a bit quiet round here, and since I have just managed to get the motor mount attached to the transom, here is a picture. sort of guessed the height and position, so will be interesting to see if it works. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote
capt jake Posted October 20, 2003 Posted October 20, 2003 looking very good!! Yes it has been quite!! Thanks for breaking the silence. Let me know how the mount works out. I will pursue mine if yours works as well as it looks! :) Thanks for the update!!!! Quote
Frank Hagan Posted October 20, 2003 Posted October 20, 2003 I think you'll be OK on the height. The Weekender sits pretty high in the water, and you want the horizontal fins ("cavitation plate") on the motor well below the water level. 4 - 6" below the bottom of the boat is plenty, if I'm remembering correctly. The only other suggestion I would have is to mount the bracket all the way to the port side ... as far to the side as you can. The reason is that the outboard will not steer the Weekender; you'll be using the rudder with the motor locked in the "straight ahead" position to avoid having to turn both the wheel and the outboard tiller (at least, that's how I found mine works best.) You may find that the prop and rudder will hit when turning to port. Quote
High C Posted October 20, 2003 Posted October 20, 2003 You may find that the prop and rudder will hit when turning to port. Yep! :oops: Let's hear it for plastic props, no damage! Quote
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